San Rafael Swell, UT - May 2024: Part 3

In Search of the San Rafael Swell

Part 2 of 3

Begin with Part 1; go to Part 2

Click on any photo for a larger version—highly recommended

May 19th (continued)

Reds Canyon

After breaking camp I drove past Tomsich Butte and turned left, north, on Reds Canyon Loop Road. Just past the butte was the remains of an old truck, as one sees from time to time out in the boondocks. The truck carcass wasn't photogenic, but I liked the composition of the engine block sitting alone with the colorful cliffs behind.

Insert clever caption here ;-)

Looking north along Reds Canyon

Looking back the way I came

Despite this twist, the road was mostly straight along the tall cliffs

Is this straight enough for you?

The road runs fairly level for a while, slightly sandy and smooth, as it curves around the foot of the towering cliffs on the west. The canyon itself was off to the right. There was a long straight stretch, then it dropped down into the wash. The aroma of the blooming cliffroses was wonderful, though I didn't get a very good photo. 

Aromatic cliffrose

I stopped for an aerial panorama that I recommend you view full screen by clicking the symbol to the right of "INFO" or use the Direct Link.

Interesting formations to the west of the road

Here's where the road dropped into the bottom of the wash;
note how the water has eroded the sandstone over the years

Lucky Strike Mine

One of the noted side trips is a short jaunt to the Lucky Strike Mine and ghost town. I was cautioned that there is no sign, but if you know roughly where it is, it is easy to find the turn. The road is good, though keep a sharp eye out for crosscuts!!! They are hard to see and will mess you up if you hit one at speed. There are a bunch. The road dips into and out of a small wash several times, but it's probably only about a mile to the mine and town. It looks like folks had camped just beyond the town from time to time. If you wanted to really take the time to explore the mine that might be a good option.

Road to the mine area crossing an arroyo

Information sign

Does this qualify as a ghost town? The adits are above the white tailing at middle right

I took a few photos and flew the drone up for a panorama that turned out very cool—view full screen by clicking the symbol to the right of "INFO" or use the Direct Link.

Continuing along Reds Canyon Loop Road

The road, as it continues north, is interesting, though not as dramatic as the southern end. Watch out for oncoming traffic. After several more miles the road climbs up out of the canyon.

You can see the road is still in excellent condition

This side canyon looked interesting, but there is no road only illegal off route ATV tracks

Looking down where the road has climbed up out of the canyon

Just past Family Butte is a road north, but I didn't explore up that way, but continued on. Before long I was back in familiar territory.

Family Butte (a fair distance beyond this ridge)

BTW, I was informed by a friend on our White Rim Trail trip about a safety/courtesy protocol for groups of motorcyclists and/or ATV riders. I came across one group of each type on the loop road and they observed the procedure. Each rider holds up a hand with fingers extended for the number of riders behind; the final rider holds up a fist (no fingers.) It was good to see folks are still doing this.

Temple Mountain Road

I retraced my steps at this point and the conditions were favorable for a better photo of Temple Mountain. I stopped again at the campground next to the reef to re-inflate my tires.

Temple Mountain

On the Highway Southeast

I stopped again in Hanksville for gas then headed southeast on UT-95. The weather was no fun. There were strong winds kicking up large clouds of dust and the sky became overcast. I wondered if I was driving into the front that had just left the Swell. Although there was some oncoming traffic there was not a single vehicle going the same direction that I was. No one passed me and I passed no one the entire time.

I needed to decide where I'd camp for the night. I thought about Radium King Road, but the wind would be just too strong up on Moss Back. Or I could drive up into the Abajos to get out of the hot wind. However by the time I got to Cedar Mesa the temperatures were dropping. Perhaps I was coming up on the front. I thought about North Mule Canyon again. It's a lovely spot, but seemed too soon to return if I had other options.

Cedar Mesa

Then I thought to check my newly discovered campsite in the pines. If it was taken it would be easy enough to then go to Mule Canyon or explore along the road. The drive had been tiring, but it was not yet 4pm.

I turned off the highway where the road follows a ridge. The wind was making itself known. Not a day to camp up there, though I did see one small camp trailer. When the road dropped down off the ridge I was delighted to see the canyon site was unoccupied. The site has seen plenty of use, but it hasn't been over used, either. I am not going to spell out the name of the road here where the search engines will index it for the entire internet. You should be able to figure it out from my descriptions and photos or drop me an email if you'd like a name and directions.

Lovely campsite among the pines

Old tree above the rocks

I drove into the site, which looks like it could hold a small group, and backed onto a level spot. The ground is a little dusty and the wind was swirling a bit, but I was out of the strongest gusts. I did walk around the site a bit and followed one little trail up the canyon floor. It led to a pretty good sized shelf cave. I'm sure it was popular with the natives, but any artifacts were long gone. It showed lots of traffic and someone even left a little campfire ready to light. It looked like a great place for a few scouts to toast marshmallows and tell ghost stories. I meant to go back and get a photo, but forgot, sorry.

As it was cool and dusty I didn't sit outside long. It had been overcast, but around 7pm the wind dropped and the setting sun broke under the cloud layer to illuminate the area. I happily got out my camera and began exploring. It was an easy climb up the east side where I walked around the cryptobiotic soils and blooming cacti. I found a Bench Mark from 1958.

Looking down at my site from the canyon wall

Don't hug this fuzzy cactus

Sandstone "rivers" in the cryptobiotic soil

I don't know what species of fern this is, but there was a whole tiny colony

1958

Don't snag one of those fishhooks

Later that night I could hear the wind in the tall pines and it was way more than a whisper. 

Tuesday, May 20th

Cedar Mesa (continued)

I didn't wander far from the campsite as I wanted to get going. I did note the large number of pine cones that had blown off the trees and fallen to the bottom of the canyon. In a wetter era these might wash down and plant a new grove. These days, not much chance of that.

These cones looked like they had only recently fallen to the bottom of the wash

One of the many pines that had dropped copious cones

The Highway Home

I had to stop twice on UT-95 for road construction where they are replacing the bridges above the washes. Looks like they are straightening the roadway a bit, too, which is much needed. I followed my usual route and experienced more delays on US-64. These required Pilot Cars and longer waits, but not terrible. All this is on the New Mexico side which was getting to be in poor condition. I stopped in Shiprock for a green chile cheeseburger and fries. Yum! 

Hogback

I no longer take US-64 between Shiprock and Farmington as the Navajo bypass is so much more pleasant. But if you do, you probably noticed the highway is squeezed between the San Juan River and a large geological formation called a Hogback. It's peculiar and interesting to those of us who notice these things. You can get a good view of this formation from the Navajo route. The light was good this trip and the torn up terrain to its west showed up particularly well, so I stopped to take a photo. Due to the river and highway being at a lower elevation they don't show up in this image. You can see Ute Mountain on the horizon at left. I didn't photoshop the beer bottle and trash out of the photo as that's unfortunately indicative of the state of things. Here is an interesting PDF about a study on the hogback when they were widening the highway.

Hogback on the other side of the San Juan River

Home

I made it home without incident and with only a few light showers while on US-550. This was a terrific trip. I certainly recommend The Hondu area and the loop road which is easily traversed. I would also recommend April or early May before it gets too hot, or in the fall, and keep an eye on the weather as some sections would be difficult after heavy rain.

Thanks for your attention.