Colorado Wildflower Tour - July 2021: Part 2

Gunnison Public Lands

Continued from Part 1

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Friday, July 16th (continued)

Slate River Valley

I filled my tank with expensive gasoline in Gunnison and headed up toward Crested Butte. I decided to drive up the road along the Slate River as it was a beautiful area with many places to disperse camp. Was I ever in for a surprise. I guess it's been 4 years since I camped along here. Since then the forest service has instituted camping restrictions - camping in designated sites only. I'm not saying this is a bad thing, in fact it is probably a good idea to help preserve the natural resource. There were many fewer "drive in" sites, but they had added a number of "walk in" areas. However, this meant I was unable to find a campsite anywhere along the road as the area was overflowing with visitors. There were not all that many wildflowers either, so I took no photos. I turned around and headed back to Crested Butte.

Kebler Pass Road

I drove west on County 12, Kebler Pass Road. There were no camping restrictions posted in this area, but there were tents and RVs shoehorned into just about every possible niche. At least there were quite a few wildflowers along the highway and in the meadows. I drove in on several side roads, but found no spot available. Finally, I found a narrow spur off the county road that was not inhabited - maybe because there was no campsite just a 100 foot long double track to nowhere. However, with my pop-up camper I don't really need a site just a space! I backed out as there was not even a turn around at the end of the very short road, then turned around and backed into the road until I was out of sight of the county road and my rig was close to level. My home for the evening.

Camping in the middle of a road to nowhere.

Saturday, July 17th

Kebler Pass Road (continued)

Mule's Ears are ubiquitous in the region.

I decided not to drive farther west this morning. I believe the area is mostly scrublands and wouldn't have as many flowers as I'd seen driving in. Hope that wasn't a mistake. I briefly looked at my maps and thought about where I wanted to head that day - no conclusion, but food for thought. I packed up and headed back east to the big meadow. The meadows and hillsides were covered with wildflowers, mostly bright yellow Asteraceae. I took lots of photos. The diversity of species was much less than in American Basin, but the size & density of patches seemed much higher.

Mule's Ears on the hillside along Ruby Anthracite Creek

East Beckwith Mountain seen across the meadow.

People disperse camp by the trailheads at the big meadow. Cliff Creek, on the south side, provides very limited space, though Dark Canyon at Horse Ranch Park on the north side has a big loop where larger travel trailers and RVs can camp. This time there were many, many large horse trailers there. It's obviously a popular spot for pack trips. There is also a corral.

Ruby Peak

Another view of East Beckwith Mountain

View from along Kebler Pass Road

[A note on camping along Kebler Road: it would not surprise me if the Forest Service implemented camping restrictions in this area similar as along the Slate River. I suspect several sites close to Ruby Anthracite Creek would be closed as being too close to running water. Other areas might be closed to protect the resource, though I don't believe this area has been as abused as the Slate River area had been.]

Ohio Pass Road

Instead of braving Crested Butte on a Saturday morning I turned off on Ohio Pass Road that heads south almost as far as Gunnison. I had driven up the road in 2014 when looking for autumn aspen. This time I would be going down. It is a pretty drive, but not much in the way of dispersed campsites, FYI. There were lovely wildflowers especially in the lower reaches, such as at the Swampy Pass trail head, but I didn't take any photos. 

Cochetopa Region

I returned to Gunnison and topped of my gas tank. When thinking of my travels this morning I thought maybe I'd go east on US-50 from Gunnison then turn south on CO-114 through Cochetopa Canyon and see what was beyond. I'd come up through the canyon in 2018 on one of my fall color tours. On that trip I'd come down Cebolla Creek Canyon from Slumgullion Pass. This time my idea was to stay on 114 go over North Cochetopa Pass and explore to the east and south of there.

Cochetopa Canyon did not seem as spectacular as I'd remembered, but on the first transit I'd been totally surprised to find it at all. That probably influenced my memories. Nonetheless, it is very cool.

I did get one great surprise. Around a curve, about the time I noticed a van headed toward me braking heavily, I saw a Bighorn Sheep crossing the road! My first time ever seeing one close enough to see with my naked eyes. So cool, but he was across the highway and disappearing up the side of the canyon before I could even register what I'd seen. Zero chance for a photo.

Cochetopa Creek runs through the canyon and there are a number of areas to pull off. The BLM has added tables to some spots. Where I stopped for lunch there was also a vault toilet. I found shade under the trees and took a few photos after my repast. 

Close-up of the blossoms on the Shrubby Cinquefoil.

Purplish Fritillary butterfly at my picnic spot.

Pretty little Pink Checker Mallow flowers.

I launched the drone to get an aerial photo of this strip oasis.

Aerial view along the creek.

North Cochetopa Pass

Obligatory photo from the pass, crossing the Continental Divide.

After crossing North Cochetopa Pass I checked out Buffalo Pass Campground. It was so early I had no intention of staying, but wanted to see what it was like. It was about a mile off the highway and very nice. The USFS charges only $5 per night. Great for a future stay if the timing was right. I returned to the highway and proceeded south to County Road NN 14 where I cut west to explore that area. I'd seen Luders Creek campground on the map and I figured where there was a campground there might be scenic dispersed camping. The roads were excellent and the lands very pretty, though not spectacular.

At Luder Creek I met two gentlemen who were enthusiastic about telling me about interesting places to visit and camp in the area. We looked at maps and they gave me their suggestions. Unfortunately, their suggestions didn't pan out. Either we had different ideas of what constituted a good campsite or I misunderstood their directions, or a bit of both. 

FS-788

I drove west past Dome Lakes not seeing where they were recommending for dispersed camping as it was bare country, they had admitted "open". But they were both very enthusiastic about camping at McDonough Reservoir so I thought I'd go find it. To get there I ended up back on FS-788 that I'd traveled in 2018. Not my original intention, but here I was. There were two access roads to the reservoir. The first I tried that should have led to the outlet below the lake had a locked gate about 2/3rds of the way in. Rats. The second was steep road which led to a somewhat claustrophobic campsite that was in fact already taken. There were also several vehicles, probably folks fishing, but I didn't see anyone.

Los Pinos Creek

[Not to be confused with Rio de los Piños where I will be tomorrow.]

At that point I was too far along to want to go back so I continued. As the afternoon progressed I kept looking for a good campsite. I tried a couple side roads that were rough and didn't seem to lead anywhere interesting. I was getting closer to Los Pinos Pass. I'd found a pretty campsite below there on my previous trip, but I figured the view from the pass itself, toward the west, would be best lit by morning light so I wanted to camp before the pass and go over in the morning.

I turned south on FS-790, a gravel road that looked promising and on the map looked like it led to interesting places. After about two miles I came to a dirt road through large open area of low scrub. To the side was a grassy area that looked to make an acceptable camp site. I found a level spot for the camper and was just unlatching the roof when there came a terrible racket. Apparently around the bend was a camp where youthful voices were yelling and gunning their unmuffled ATVs. Glad they started up before I made camp. I re-latched the roof and got out of there. I continued on the gravel road, but it soon became apparent it would go through miles of repetitive hillside with little chance of campsites.

I drove back to the "main" road and continued toward the pass. In a mile or less I saw a little dirt road off to the north marked FS-821. About a mile up the road I found a nice campsite in a little meadow. It even had a good view south toward what I believe to be Stewart Peak.

Finally, a deluxe dispersed campsite with no noisy neighbors.

A Western Wood-Peewee high in the treetops.

Sunday, July 18th

Aerial view above my campsite looking toward the peaks.

I took a wildflower photo walk before packing up. There were lots of species in the rough meadow where I camped that I had not seen in other areas of this trip.

The etherial Prairie Smoke flower.

Sego Lily lies close to the ground and is easily overlooked.

View up toward my campsite.

Hippio's Cinquefoil and Scarlett Gilia.

Yarrow in a sunny spot.

Another species of Cinquefoil and Tiger Beardtongue.

Showy Daisy is found throughout the region

Los Pinos Pass

View along the road at Los Pinos Pass

The road I'd camped along was only about a half mile before the pass. I stopped a couple times along the road for photos. 

An aerial view from a bit farther down the pass.

Colorado Rubber Plant likes a sunny roadside. Reportedly the plant has latex in its roots.

Richardson's Geranium

Sand Aster also likes a sunny spot.

I'd been seeing Western Tanagers throughout the trip. This is the only photo I managed to get.

Yet another Cinquefoil. This one is very small and hugs the ground.

When I got to the junction of Cebolla Road I decided to head north a short ways. I had not explored that direction on my previous trip. The map showed the Mason Family State Wildlife Area and farther on the Cebolla Creek campground. The Mason Wildlife Area was very nice. It is a small, neat campground in a wooded area along Cebolla Creek. Note however, the faculty is only for those with a valid Colorado Fishing or Hunting license. This is apparently a new restriction. 

I continued along. For a number of miles the road passes through private property - mostly summer homes. The Forest Service Cebolla Creek campground farther north is tiny with two small sites next to the road. It was pretty, but probably not a destination. I turned around there and headed back south. 

Aerial view looking up Cebolla Creek Canyon.

Entering the canyon from near the junction.

When I came down Cebolla Canyon in 2018 I got caught behind the fall cattle round-up for much of the way. This resulted in my impression of the canyon being much longer. Measuring it after the fact, the canyon is about 15 miles long from the junction of FS-788 and CO-149. It remains a beautiful canyon with the small stream flowing between steep cliffs and forested slopes. There is one small campground suitable for small campers and another with walk-in sites. There are maybe a half dozen dispersed campsites along the road. I stopped for photos a few times along the canyon road. 

A close-up of a rose bush along side the road.

Interesting cliff formations along the road.

Though common in desert regions of Utah, this primrose clung to the edge of the road.

A field of flowers between the road and the cliffs.

Red Paintbrush

Don't know if you can see it, but these blossoms were definitely pink.

This patch of Tiger Beardtongue was near the head of the road.

(At the head of the road at Slumgullion Pass the larger campground there has been re-opened and it is lightly used, though it has fewer trees now after the dead tree removal project along CO-149. It is also at a higher elevation than many are comfortable with.)

When I reached the top I turned east and south on CO-149. I stopped for a picnic lunch at Spring Pass. I didn't want to brave the potential crowds in this area, but was interested in another night or two camping if I could find a nice spot. I had one in mind in far, far northern New Mexico if it was available. I should be able to reach it by late afternoon.

I drove down the Silver Thread Highway past Creede, though North Fork, stopped for gas in Monte Vista, and turned south at Alamosa. 

Continued in Part 3

Colorado Color; Part 3 - September 2017

Continued from Part 2

Part 3 of 4

Wednesday, September 20 (continued)

Gunnison

I grabbed lunch in town, then stopped by the Chamber of Commerce visitor center to see if they had recommendations for aspen color. In fact they had fairly comprehensive information for many locations in the Gunnison Basin and I used this as a basis to plan my next two days. The status reports were not 100% accurate, but a reasonable guide, and I can recommend folks who are looking for autumn color in this area check in with them.

Gothic Valley

Gothic Mountain

I drove north on CO-135. through Crested Butte, to Gothic Valley via FR-317. There were a number of lovely autumn scenes, even if many not yet peak. It is a gorgeous valley with great views and is also a great spot for wildflowers in summer. I didn't drive all the way up the valley, I had done that on a previous trip - all the way over Schofield Pass - but turned around. Camping is restricted in the lower valley. Above the town of Gothic is a forest service campground and dispersed camping is allowed beyond there.

Gothic Valley

Avery Peak

East River, Gothic Valley

Another view of Avery Peak

Washington Gulch

Gothic Mountain viewed along its narrow axis.

Drove back through the village of Mt. Crested Butte and turned north on county road 811 into Washington Gulch, the valley to the west of Gothic. Much of the lower valley is private property. There is dispersed camping once you reach the national forest, but then there are some private mining areas to avoid. The view back toward Crested Butte from the high road was spectacular.

Crested Butte from lower Washington Gulch Road.

National Forest lands that allow dispersed camping.

View back down at the gulch and Crested Butte from high up the road.

I continued up the 4WD extension of FR-811 after stopping a NFS pickup truck coming down to verify I'd be able to make it through to the next valley to the west. The view on top looking west was great, though with the angle of the sun, the photos were less than ideal. Descending, there were a couple of tricky, tail-dragging spots, but nothing too difficult.

Looking over toward the Slate River Valley from the far end of Washington Gulch Road.

Slate River Valley

I turned left down FR-734. The switchbacks were steep, but in good condition. The last switchback deposits travelers at the Slate River.

The switchbacks leading down into the Slate River Valley.

I turned up a short spur that follows the river (really a small stream.) There are a couple areas suitable as dispersed camps that tempted me. I'd seen folks camp there on my previous trips. The view of the mountains on either side was incredible and the stream chortled nearby. But a breeze was picking up and the site would be very exposed to winds blasting down the canyon, so I reluctantly drove on.

This is as far as you can drive up the Slate River Valley.

I found a nice campsite where I could back my camper into a shielding grove of evergreens. There was a large meadow and a beautiful view down the valley. It wasn't far from the stream horizontally, but the river there was deep in a narrow cleft. I spent a pleasant evening, and though the wind did indeed blow, I was sheltered by the trees.

My campsite, sheltered from the wind blowing down-canyon.

Red-tailed Hawk soaring overhead.

View from my campsite, looking down the valley.

Thursday, September 21

Campsite in the morning light.

It was 30 degrees when I got up in the morning, but the sky was clear and the sun was shining on my camper. I took a few photos then started down the road, taking more photos as I drove along the Slate River.

Many beaver ponds in this part of the valley below the old mining town of Pittsburg.

A section of what I believe to be the old road, running alongside the beaver ponds.

When I stopped to photograph a meadow full of beaver ponds, I accessed it via what appeared to be an old road. This got me to thinking... since my first trip to this area with my pop-up camper in 2013, I'd been looking for a campsite I found in 1973. My memories were ancient, but I remember driving up to Crested Butte and taking a road that curved off to the left up a valley. I was in my 1968 VW Campmobile^™ pop up, which though severely underpowered, still had the clearance to tackle many "jeep trails." I drove as far as I could, then found a little sliver of a campsite that was near a beaver pond. It was perfectly idyllic. In the last few years, I combed this whole area many times looking for that site without success. This was really the only place in the whole area with beaver ponds, but the road was nothing like I remembered, so had discounted it. What if, sometime between 1973 and recent times, the road was reconfigured/moved? Not an unreasonable assumption. I'm thinking now that this area is where I camped all those years ago.

Another "selfie."

Another beaver pond farther down the valley next to county road 739A

This cute little critter was stuffing his cheek pouches with seeds.

This Song Sparrow was exploring the top of the beaver dam looking for brunch.

Here's a good view of a beaver dam.

After a few photos, I drove a bit farther down FR-734. There was another spur, near another beaver pond, though this one is not part of a group. I initially thought the spur just went to a parking area for a trail, but now saw there was a forest road below that crossed the river and climbed west. I drove down to the road and stopped for photos. I checked out the bridge, but didn't take the road as I could hear heavy equipment working on the road ahead. This seems to be county road 739A; I may explore it another time.

Old mining equipment and tailings next to the beaver pond.

I continued down the valley on 734 to Crested Butte where I stopped at Clark’s Market deli counter and bought a sandwich for a later lunch. The Gunnison Chamber of Commerce list showed Kebler Pass road, county road 12, was two weeks before prime, but I thought I'd check it out anyway, since I was so close.

Kebler Pass

East Beckwith Mountain

Ruby Peak

Yes, it was certainly too early for the best autumn color, though the road runs through beautiful landscapes. I found a tiny side road to check out for future camping and to find a picnic spot. The road forded a creek and entered a heavily wooded area. I found a place to have lunch (the sandwich from Clark's was delicious!) and spoke with an elk hunter at the next site over - seems there are a few dispersed sites up this narrow, muddy road. I didn't take photos as it was just too closed in. I liked my campsite of a couple years ago better. It was a few miles farther west in an open aspen grove.

Returning to Crested Butte.

Spring Creek Road

I drove back to Crested Butte and turned south on CO-135. I took the Jack's Cabin Cutoff, county road 813, to get to the Taylor Park highway. I then turned north on Spring Creek Road, FR-744. I'd wanted to explore this road since the first time I discovered this area years ago, however both times I was here before, the road was closed due to rock slides.

The first two miles of Spring Creek Road are vacation homes and cabins, then the NFS Spring Creek Campground, which I didn't explore. I drove up the narrow valley which slowly widened out. There were a few dispersed camping locations along the way. There were a few photo ops, too.

Spring Creek

Spring Creek Road

"Flowing Rock" next to the road.

I drove as far as Spring Creek Reservoir, which was very low. The NFS Mosca Campground is there. There also looked like you could find a number of dispersed campsites farther up the road past the reservoir.

Spring Creek Reservoir

Spillway reconstruction.

I then took FR-748 that goes down to the Taylor Park area. The road goes through a stretch of generic forest, then comes out down at the Taylor River.

Italian Mountain

Taylor Park Road

Taylor River

I drove south along the river without wasting any time. You can read other accounts of this area in my earlier blog postings. My goal this afternoon was to head toward Cumberland Pass, one of the few high passes in this region I had not yet crossed. Cottonwood Pass road was closed as they are paving the length of it - someone said all the way to Buena Vista. If so it will provide a smooth way for even more trailers and RVs to reach Taylor Park.

A grove of red aspen high on a hillside. Yes, they were really this color. Photo using telephoto lens.

Tin Cup

Cumberland Pass Road, FR-765, passes through the old mining town of Tin Cup. Though the area north of the town is national forest, it is a restricted camping area, so be aware of that and check the posted maps if you want to camp here. I didn't stop at Tin Cup as it looked a bit too restored and touristy for my tastes.

Orange and yellow aspen along Cumberland Pass Road.

Cumberland Pass Road

The road above the town quickly became very rocky and bumpy. I didn't air down at the time, hoping the road would smooth out before long, but instead ended up slowing lurching my way up the valley. My advice to you, should you go this way, is to lower the pressure in your tires as much as is safe.

My campsite among the trees, next to Willow Creek, a short ways before the switchbacks begin.

Old beaver pond next to my campsite.

The road south of town is either private land or not hospitable for dispersed camping, at least not until you are almost to the switchbacks up to the pass. There is a short stretch along Willow Creek with three or four good dispersed sites. I took the first one I came to. It was snug in among a thick grove of trees, so I would be out of the wind. It was a pretty site, next to a small (old and apparently abandoned) beaver pond. I sat on the bank above the pond hoping for some wildlife activity. I photographed a cooperative squirrel, but that was all before the sun dropped behind the mountain and the cold chased me into the camper. It was windy all night, I could hear it whistle in the treetops, but it was calm down at the camper.

My neighbor.

Looking up toward the pass from one of Willow Creek's beaver ponds.

Willow Creek in the late afternoon.

Friday, September 22

Morning at my campsite.

Several of these birds were feeding and chattering around the campsite, but they were difficult to photograph as they were moving so darn quickly.

It was mostly cloudy, but only 42 degrees, in the morning. The forecast had been predicting rain. I headed up the switchbacks on Cumberland Pass Road. It continued to be rocky and bumpy. Finally I had enough and stopped to and air down. Even then the road was still awful and slow going. I don't think I'll be going this way again anytime soon.

Looking back down from whence I came. You might be able to see the Willow Creek beaver dams.

Cumberland Pass

Looking north from the pass.

As you can see from the photos, it was overcast at the pass, so the view was not as spectacular as it could have been.

Another view of the pass. I didn't explore the road you see climbing higher.

Starting down the south side of the pass.

Green Mountain was actually green from rocks and minerals, not vegetation.

Coming down the south side, the road was not as bad as the north, but still not fun. As on the north side, there were/are quite a number of mines and claims in the area.

Old mine along the road.

I passed the Quartz Creek Campground, but didn't investigate. I was thinking now of heading back to CO-149 to check for color around Lake City and wanted to get there before the rain started. A little ways south of the CG was the junction of FR-839 and signage for the Alpine Tunnel Historical District. Research later from home indicates the narrow gauge railroad tunnel, once the longest & highest in the world, is sealed off, but there are still railroad support buildings being restored in the area. Might be worth checking out on another trip (driving in from the south!)

The Children's Fishing Pond at the north end of Pitkin.

Pitkin seems to be a cool little tourist/residential town. The pavement begins here, so aired back up, and drove quickly down to US-50 where I turned right to Gunnison.

Concluded in Part 4