Colorado Autumn - October 2019; Part 4

Continued from Part 3. Journey begins in Part 1 - you should start there if you didn't already.

Note: If you click on a photo you can see a larger version - highly recommended.

Thursday, October 3 (continued)

Spring Creek Road

At Altmont I turned off CO-135 onto 742 toward Taylor Park. I recalled Spring Creek Road I'd driven a few years ago was very scenic. I could drive as far as the reservoir, then get to Taylor Park from there.

I headed up FS-744 through the narrow valley. However, I saw no aspen anywhere along this route. I expected some along Spring Creek Reservoir, but other than one gone-by patch at the far end, there were none there either. FS-748 over to Taylor Park was no better. (Looking back at my 2017 trip, once home, there were photos of aspen groves along the road and at the reservoir. I guess that's why I expected more this time.)

Spring Creek Reservoir with a few folks fishing and little autumn color.

Taylor Park

Even more disappointing, there were practically no aspen in Taylor Park. Maybe I should have stayed one more day along Kebler Pass Road. Coming down the road into the park, I did spot one good sized grove of aspen northeast of where I'd join Taylor Park Road, FS-742. I turned to find it. Maybe there would be a side road that would get me there.

As I got near I could see the grove was quite a ways off the road. I did find a side road, but it quickly ended long before getting to the grove. Well, I should be able to get photos from up in the air, right? So I launched my M2P. Yes, there they were, though not particularly close. I didn't want to risk flying too far in the wind, so took exposures to stitch together once home.

Panorama of the only patch of aspen I found in Taylor Park

I turned around and headed south. Just past the north end of Taylor Park Reservoir I turned east on Cottonwood Pass Road. FYI, it's FS-209 at this end, but as you go over the pass you enter San Isabel NF and it changes to FS-306.

Cottonwood Pass Road

When I first decided to head toward Taylor Park, I'd really thought I'd find an area with lots of autumn color and camp there. As that didn't happen I'd look for a campsite along Cottonwood Pass Road. I was still expecting rain the next day, so didn't want to turn back west. The one time I'd driven this road it was still dirt, but I remembered a meadow along the way that I was sure would have dispersed campsites around it. I just didn't remember how far up the pass it was and I didn't want to drive too far up in elevation - remembering how cold it had been the night before.

The highway was very nice - smooth and wide. It looked like they followed the old road for the most part. I kept a lookout for side roads that might have campsites. I passed a small road on the left and turned around to check it out. It lead up a rise and over to a small open area where people had camped before. It wasn't a perfect spot, a bit close to the highway, but one of my faults is trying to find the perfect campsite. That quest often wastes time and by the time I find that spot (if I do) it may be too late in the day to really enjoy it. So, I'd camp here. I got set up in plenty of time to sit outside in the warm, low sun for a little while to relax and I didn't miss the first pitch of the baseball game, either.

Campsite just off Cottonwood Pass Road

Friday, Oct 4

Early in the morning I heard light rain on the roof, though only briefly. At dawn, sure enough, it was cloudy as forecast. But it was only partly cloudy, I didn't want to turn tail without reason. I dug out my maps to look for areas to visit on the east side of the mountain range. That way if the weather was bad, I would be headed in the general direction of home; and if it improved I could cut back west on US-160 and either go over Wolf Pass or head up to the area north of Platoro where I'd seen aspen a previous year.

Cottonwood Lake was only a few miles south of Cottonwood Pass Road, so I'd check it out. There was also a paved road headed west from south of Buena Vista that looked interesting. A few seasons ago I'd stopped at the ranger station in Salida for suggestions for aspen farther south. She suggested Marshall Pass Road, which I did later that day. I also asked about the sign I'd seen along the highway for Chalk Cliffs. She said they were worth a visit, as well as the old mining town of St. Elmo. I didn't visit then as I didn't want to backtrack, but that wouldn't be far from where I'd be today. OK, a plan.

Cottonwood Pass

I headed up the highway, admiring the new pavement... and the views. They did an excellent job not disturbing the area except for a couple small areas. One of those, unfortunately, destroyed a natural rock slide area where I'd photographed a marmot back when I traveled this road before.

Looking back (west) toward Taylor Park Reservoir

I stopped at the pass and took a few photos despite the clouds.

Cottonwood Pass - the Continental Divide (12,126')

View to the east from Cottonwood Pass

On the way down the east side there were a few small areas of aspen. I also noticed there were a number of opportunities for dispersed camping along the road. The largest area being along the creek across from, and on either side of, the Avalanche Trailhead.

Cottonwood Lake

I took FS-344 south from the highway. It begins as a wide gravel road through private land, summer cabins and resorts. Cottonwood Lake is a little over three miles in. The old campground is now day use only; the new campground is a little over a half mile farther. There were a few aspen on the slopes behind the lake, but I missed the beautiful, clear blue skies of the previous days.

Cottonwood Lake

There is no dispersed camping allowed along the road from the highway until about two miles past the USFS campground. Then there are quite a number of nice sites along the road which follows the creek. After a mile or so the road cuts uphill, becomes much narrower, and there is a sign advising there were no good dispersed campsite farther up the road. I didn't proceed farther to verify the assertion.

Farther up South Cottonwood Creek canyon

I returned to the highway and headed toward the town of Buena Vista. I could see from my maps that if I drove south on County Road 321 before the main part of town it would be much shorter to the Chalk Cliffs than going into town and taking US-285.

Chalk Cliffs

The county road was a good decision. Up to the very end it was straight and fast. Just past the first big bend was a great view of the Chalk Cliffs. I lucked out as the clouds parted just then to allow the sun to shine on the chalk.

The entrance to Chalk Creek Canyon and the Chalk Cliffs

Mt. Princeton Hot Springs

The country road then descends into the valley where Mt. Princeton Hot Springs Resort is located. There is not a town here, per se', but many homes are located in the area. I turned off 321 and drove west on County Road 162 (which is what you'd take from US-285 if coming in from the main highway.) There were plenty of private campgrounds and vacation cabins along the road, but those were soon less obtrusive as the road continued along side Chalk Creek.

View along the drive

It is a beautiful area and I stopped along the road several times for photos. The clouds and constantly changing light conditions were frustrating. Camping is restricted to developed campgrounds only; there are two USFS campgrounds close to the Chalk Cliffs and one near St. Elmo, the Iron City Campground. My understanding is that dispersed camping is allowed above the townsite of St. Elmo on Country Road 267, Tincup Pass Road, but I didn't go that direction.

There was autumn color up the canyon.

St. Elmo Township

Pedestrian street at the far end of town.

This historic old mining town of St. Elmo was a pleasant surprise. Generally I do some research from home when planning my trips. If not a detailed itinerary, then at least ideas and options. But this side excursion was impromptu and unplanned. The town is privately owned and much of the main street restored (or at least their facades are preserved).

Log cabin

These folks asked if I wanted them to move out of the picture. I said, "No, if you don't mind appearing in my blog."

There were quite a few tourists on this Friday morning in early October. I expect it gets quite crowded on weekends and in summer. There was parking along Main Street and an auxiliary lot outside town. The General Store is open for business, as is the guest house across the street.

General Store was open

Guesthouse

Another surprise was "The Woodpile" which is located across the street from the general store. At first I didn't know what was going on. Families were sitting on these planks laughing, then I noticed it was swarming with chipmunks. Hands holding sunflower seeds were held out and the chipmunks were climbing up to eat (actually stuff their cheek pouches). I talked to a lady and her daughter who where there. She said her friend's family used to come up here thirty years ago and it was just like this. So many, many generations of chipmunks have been getting a free lunch and delighting visitors.

Just look at those cheek pouches!

The Woodpile (though my bad timing shows only one chipmunk in the photo.)

Buildings at the east end of town.

As I had miles to go, I didn't explore much around the area. Tincup Pass Road is rated as a moderate difficulty 4x4 road as is Hancock Pass Road (though rated easy as far as Hancock Townsite.) I would expect these roads to be very rocky and bumpy, however. There are a couple other 4x4 trails leaving the St. Elmo site that are rated difficult. Judging by the empty ATV trailers a number of folks were trying out all these routes.

Aerial panorama of the Chalk Cliffs

I headed out of the valley. I stopped near the Chalk Cliffs to take aerial photos and video, then drove to US-285 and headed south. South of Poncha Springs I kept watch toward the mountains between South Fork and Pagosa Springs. There was a strong wind and it seemed like more clouds were heading into the area. I decided to call the trip a success and head home.

New Mexico

After crossing into New Mexico a giant, dark storm cloud loomed on the horizon. I found a wide spot to pull over and tried to get a photo that would give you some idea of what I was seeing. The photo doesn't do it justice. Luckily, by the time I would get under it, the worst was over.

Storm clouds when entering New Mexico

My navigation app showed that if I didn't stop I'd end up driving the freeway between Santa Fe and Albuquerque in the worst part of the commute. I therefore decided to pause in Española for dinner. I usually eat at Angelina's, but had been disappointed the last couple of times so wanted to try somewhere new. I saw Dandy Burger, which appeared to be a home grown burger haven and there were lots of cars parked outside. I ordered a green chile cheeseburger & fries which should have been delicious, but was only good. The NM franchise Blake's Lotaburger is better.

Camel Rock

I also stopped at Camel Rock north of Santa Fe. I remembered it from when I was a kid and we'd drive by or maybe stop for a picnic. Like too many of our natural treasures, no one stepped up to protect it from vandalism. Decades ago the large flat rocks that represented humps on the camel's back were levered off to slide down the hill. The light was from behind the camel, so I found a place down the road to launch and fly behind to get a better exposure.

Camel Rock

My plan did work and traffic had subsided by the time I hit the freeway, so had a smooth cruise home. That did force me to unpack as it was getting dark, but that was so much better that the crazy commute traffic that can be very scary the way people drive.


Thanks for reading. I had a great time this trip, saw beautiful sights and even met some interesting fellow travelers. I hope you enjoyed following along.

Colorado Color; Part 3 - September 2017

Continued from Part 2

Part 3 of 4

Wednesday, September 20 (continued)

Gunnison

I grabbed lunch in town, then stopped by the Chamber of Commerce visitor center to see if they had recommendations for aspen color. In fact they had fairly comprehensive information for many locations in the Gunnison Basin and I used this as a basis to plan my next two days. The status reports were not 100% accurate, but a reasonable guide, and I can recommend folks who are looking for autumn color in this area check in with them.

Gothic Valley

Gothic Mountain

I drove north on CO-135. through Crested Butte, to Gothic Valley via FR-317. There were a number of lovely autumn scenes, even if many not yet peak. It is a gorgeous valley with great views and is also a great spot for wildflowers in summer. I didn't drive all the way up the valley, I had done that on a previous trip - all the way over Schofield Pass - but turned around. Camping is restricted in the lower valley. Above the town of Gothic is a forest service campground and dispersed camping is allowed beyond there.

Gothic Valley

Avery Peak

East River, Gothic Valley

Another view of Avery Peak

Washington Gulch

Gothic Mountain viewed along its narrow axis.

Drove back through the village of Mt. Crested Butte and turned north on county road 811 into Washington Gulch, the valley to the west of Gothic. Much of the lower valley is private property. There is dispersed camping once you reach the national forest, but then there are some private mining areas to avoid. The view back toward Crested Butte from the high road was spectacular.

Crested Butte from lower Washington Gulch Road.

National Forest lands that allow dispersed camping.

View back down at the gulch and Crested Butte from high up the road.

I continued up the 4WD extension of FR-811 after stopping a NFS pickup truck coming down to verify I'd be able to make it through to the next valley to the west. The view on top looking west was great, though with the angle of the sun, the photos were less than ideal. Descending, there were a couple of tricky, tail-dragging spots, but nothing too difficult.

Looking over toward the Slate River Valley from the far end of Washington Gulch Road.

Slate River Valley

I turned left down FR-734. The switchbacks were steep, but in good condition. The last switchback deposits travelers at the Slate River.

The switchbacks leading down into the Slate River Valley.

I turned up a short spur that follows the river (really a small stream.) There are a couple areas suitable as dispersed camps that tempted me. I'd seen folks camp there on my previous trips. The view of the mountains on either side was incredible and the stream chortled nearby. But a breeze was picking up and the site would be very exposed to winds blasting down the canyon, so I reluctantly drove on.

This is as far as you can drive up the Slate River Valley.

I found a nice campsite where I could back my camper into a shielding grove of evergreens. There was a large meadow and a beautiful view down the valley. It wasn't far from the stream horizontally, but the river there was deep in a narrow cleft. I spent a pleasant evening, and though the wind did indeed blow, I was sheltered by the trees.

My campsite, sheltered from the wind blowing down-canyon.

Red-tailed Hawk soaring overhead.

View from my campsite, looking down the valley.

Thursday, September 21

Campsite in the morning light.

It was 30 degrees when I got up in the morning, but the sky was clear and the sun was shining on my camper. I took a few photos then started down the road, taking more photos as I drove along the Slate River.

Many beaver ponds in this part of the valley below the old mining town of Pittsburg.

A section of what I believe to be the old road, running alongside the beaver ponds.

When I stopped to photograph a meadow full of beaver ponds, I accessed it via what appeared to be an old road. This got me to thinking... since my first trip to this area with my pop-up camper in 2013, I'd been looking for a campsite I found in 1973. My memories were ancient, but I remember driving up to Crested Butte and taking a road that curved off to the left up a valley. I was in my 1968 VW Campmobile^™ pop up, which though severely underpowered, still had the clearance to tackle many "jeep trails." I drove as far as I could, then found a little sliver of a campsite that was near a beaver pond. It was perfectly idyllic. In the last few years, I combed this whole area many times looking for that site without success. This was really the only place in the whole area with beaver ponds, but the road was nothing like I remembered, so had discounted it. What if, sometime between 1973 and recent times, the road was reconfigured/moved? Not an unreasonable assumption. I'm thinking now that this area is where I camped all those years ago.

Another "selfie."

Another beaver pond farther down the valley next to county road 739A

This cute little critter was stuffing his cheek pouches with seeds.

This Song Sparrow was exploring the top of the beaver dam looking for brunch.

Here's a good view of a beaver dam.

After a few photos, I drove a bit farther down FR-734. There was another spur, near another beaver pond, though this one is not part of a group. I initially thought the spur just went to a parking area for a trail, but now saw there was a forest road below that crossed the river and climbed west. I drove down to the road and stopped for photos. I checked out the bridge, but didn't take the road as I could hear heavy equipment working on the road ahead. This seems to be county road 739A; I may explore it another time.

Old mining equipment and tailings next to the beaver pond.

I continued down the valley on 734 to Crested Butte where I stopped at Clark’s Market deli counter and bought a sandwich for a later lunch. The Gunnison Chamber of Commerce list showed Kebler Pass road, county road 12, was two weeks before prime, but I thought I'd check it out anyway, since I was so close.

Kebler Pass

East Beckwith Mountain

Ruby Peak

Yes, it was certainly too early for the best autumn color, though the road runs through beautiful landscapes. I found a tiny side road to check out for future camping and to find a picnic spot. The road forded a creek and entered a heavily wooded area. I found a place to have lunch (the sandwich from Clark's was delicious!) and spoke with an elk hunter at the next site over - seems there are a few dispersed sites up this narrow, muddy road. I didn't take photos as it was just too closed in. I liked my campsite of a couple years ago better. It was a few miles farther west in an open aspen grove.

Returning to Crested Butte.

Spring Creek Road

I drove back to Crested Butte and turned south on CO-135. I took the Jack's Cabin Cutoff, county road 813, to get to the Taylor Park highway. I then turned north on Spring Creek Road, FR-744. I'd wanted to explore this road since the first time I discovered this area years ago, however both times I was here before, the road was closed due to rock slides.

The first two miles of Spring Creek Road are vacation homes and cabins, then the NFS Spring Creek Campground, which I didn't explore. I drove up the narrow valley which slowly widened out. There were a few dispersed camping locations along the way. There were a few photo ops, too.

Spring Creek

Spring Creek Road

"Flowing Rock" next to the road.

I drove as far as Spring Creek Reservoir, which was very low. The NFS Mosca Campground is there. There also looked like you could find a number of dispersed campsites farther up the road past the reservoir.

Spring Creek Reservoir

Spillway reconstruction.

I then took FR-748 that goes down to the Taylor Park area. The road goes through a stretch of generic forest, then comes out down at the Taylor River.

Italian Mountain

Taylor Park Road

Taylor River

I drove south along the river without wasting any time. You can read other accounts of this area in my earlier blog postings. My goal this afternoon was to head toward Cumberland Pass, one of the few high passes in this region I had not yet crossed. Cottonwood Pass road was closed as they are paving the length of it - someone said all the way to Buena Vista. If so it will provide a smooth way for even more trailers and RVs to reach Taylor Park.

A grove of red aspen high on a hillside. Yes, they were really this color. Photo using telephoto lens.

Tin Cup

Cumberland Pass Road, FR-765, passes through the old mining town of Tin Cup. Though the area north of the town is national forest, it is a restricted camping area, so be aware of that and check the posted maps if you want to camp here. I didn't stop at Tin Cup as it looked a bit too restored and touristy for my tastes.

Orange and yellow aspen along Cumberland Pass Road.

Cumberland Pass Road

The road above the town quickly became very rocky and bumpy. I didn't air down at the time, hoping the road would smooth out before long, but instead ended up slowing lurching my way up the valley. My advice to you, should you go this way, is to lower the pressure in your tires as much as is safe.

My campsite among the trees, next to Willow Creek, a short ways before the switchbacks begin.

Old beaver pond next to my campsite.

The road south of town is either private land or not hospitable for dispersed camping, at least not until you are almost to the switchbacks up to the pass. There is a short stretch along Willow Creek with three or four good dispersed sites. I took the first one I came to. It was snug in among a thick grove of trees, so I would be out of the wind. It was a pretty site, next to a small (old and apparently abandoned) beaver pond. I sat on the bank above the pond hoping for some wildlife activity. I photographed a cooperative squirrel, but that was all before the sun dropped behind the mountain and the cold chased me into the camper. It was windy all night, I could hear it whistle in the treetops, but it was calm down at the camper.

My neighbor.

Looking up toward the pass from one of Willow Creek's beaver ponds.

Willow Creek in the late afternoon.

Friday, September 22

Morning at my campsite.

Several of these birds were feeding and chattering around the campsite, but they were difficult to photograph as they were moving so darn quickly.

It was mostly cloudy, but only 42 degrees, in the morning. The forecast had been predicting rain. I headed up the switchbacks on Cumberland Pass Road. It continued to be rocky and bumpy. Finally I had enough and stopped to and air down. Even then the road was still awful and slow going. I don't think I'll be going this way again anytime soon.

Looking back down from whence I came. You might be able to see the Willow Creek beaver dams.

Cumberland Pass

Looking north from the pass.

As you can see from the photos, it was overcast at the pass, so the view was not as spectacular as it could have been.

Another view of the pass. I didn't explore the road you see climbing higher.

Starting down the south side of the pass.

Green Mountain was actually green from rocks and minerals, not vegetation.

Coming down the south side, the road was not as bad as the north, but still not fun. As on the north side, there were/are quite a number of mines and claims in the area.

Old mine along the road.

I passed the Quartz Creek Campground, but didn't investigate. I was thinking now of heading back to CO-149 to check for color around Lake City and wanted to get there before the rain started. A little ways south of the CG was the junction of FR-839 and signage for the Alpine Tunnel Historical District. Research later from home indicates the narrow gauge railroad tunnel, once the longest & highest in the world, is sealed off, but there are still railroad support buildings being restored in the area. Might be worth checking out on another trip (driving in from the south!)

The Children's Fishing Pond at the north end of Pitkin.

Pitkin seems to be a cool little tourist/residential town. The pavement begins here, so aired back up, and drove quickly down to US-50 where I turned right to Gunnison.

Concluded in Part 4