Late Spring Utah - May 2023: Part 4

Part 4 of 4

Starr Springs, Cockscomb Black Table Road, Colorado River, Moss Back Road, & the Way Home

Click on a photo to see a larger version.

May 19th (continued from Part 3; go to Part 1)

Once I came out of Poison Springs Canyon I stopped just before re-entering the highway to weigh my options. The sky, for the most part, had stayed clear, and it was very warm, approaching hot. The Henry Mountains were a possibility even with clouds building overhead. At this point I lamented not having better maps of this area. Looking at my Benchmark Atlas I saw a road cutting off UT-276 several miles south of the junction with 95 and I recalled seeing a Backcountry Byway sign there. I thought I'd try that then work my way south looking for dispersed camping. I didn't want to try to go over the pass as that was likely too high, too cool, and possibly under a rain cloud.

East Trachyte Ranch Road

I found the road and turned west. After a few miles I saw a couple of vehicles that looked like campers or travelers come out which I assumed meant this was a through road. However, before long I came to a junction not on either my map or the GPS. I slowed to look, but passed it by. After a couple of miles the road I'd been following looked like it terminated at a ranch. I turned around and went back to the unidentified road which was in good condition and well traveled. After a few miles it dipped into a valley. It  passed a deluxe campsite that was already occupied with camping and horse trailers. Immediately afterwards the road dropped down to ford a creek. It was running fast, looked deep, and was an opaque grey blue. I hesitated. I could not see evidence that anyone else had crossed recently—both banks were dry. I decided it would be foolish to try it, so backed out, turned around, and headed back to the highway. Looking at satellite maps from home I believe this was Trachyte Creek.

Starr Springs Campground

Seemed like the thing to do at this point would be to continue south on 276 and head up to Starr Springs where I'd camped once before in a nice little BLM campground. Just before entering the campground, however, I drove a bit farther to see if there was a dispersed site nearby. There's one nearby site that seems to be always occupied by two travel trailers. I tried a couple spurs beyond that, but they are no more than ATV trails with no place to camp that I could see. Consequently, I returned to the campground.

Many sites in this small, neat campground were already taken. I found a level site. It fit me well, but would be less ideal for a tent camper as the tent/table area is on a lower area reached by a short set of stairs. This was the only location on this trip where I found mosquitoes, or rather they found me. Not surprising due to the verdant nature of the campground.

Although I had neighbors, they were not around much. I finally figured out after talking to one the next morning that several sites were occupied by friends from Colorado. They were using the campground as a base for daily excursions and in the evening would gather at a site farther away from me.

Saturday May 20

Starr Springs (continued)

I walked around the campground in the morning looking for the birds I could hear and taking a few photos. I got a few glimpses of warblers and vireos, but they were too far into the bush for photos. As I drove out I stopped a couple of times to photograph the wildflowers with the mountains in the background.

Cockscomb Black Table Road

Rather than head straight back to the highway, I decided to be just a little adventurous and explore north along the gravel road below the campground. This is an interesting road running northeast along the sloped plain below Mt. Hillers. 

Mt. Hillers of the Henry Mountains.

The road leading me to the Cockcomb

The view toward the east is extraordinary, although best appreciated when the atmosphere is clear and the sun in the west. This morning it was very hazy and cloudy muting the color and contrast of the red rock country. I took lots of photos, even dug out my polarizing filter, but there is simply no way to compensate for the conditions. I do want to return at the right time of day and weather to try and capture this beauty. I’m not going to post any of the bad photos of this time.

I came to a junction with a well traveled road heading northwest. This was signed as Chaffins Way. A short while later a similar junction with Rainbow Road. Cockscomb Black Table Road became much narrower and a bit rougher from this point on. If you look at a satellite image you can see that those two named roads meet about a mile up and between them are side roads and loops that might have been someones dream of a residential subdivision back when Lake Powell was a thriving recreation destination (with water levels as "intended" and a working ferry.) There appears to be one or two houses there. After returning home I phoned the Henry Mountains BLM office and they said the subdivision is on state land and that there are cabins up there and the land is considered private.

Looking back at the way I came with Mt. Hillers and the Cockscomb in view.

The road continues NE across a terrace and a hogback where a cattle guard is to be found. There were lots of wildflowers and amazing views. The road gets rougher, but not technical, as it descends crossing a few canyons before coming out at UT-276. An enjoyable alternate route and I even identified a probable dispersed campsite about 2 miles from the highway.

A close-up view of a Utah Penstemon.

The road drops off the hogback and Canyon Lands appear.
The camera is not pointed into the sun so was able to salvage this photo somewhat.

I spent a long time trying to ID this wildflower without success. The serrated leaves simply do not come close to matching any flower I could find. No one on iNaturalist has suggested a species, either.

In a "palm of hand meets forehead" moment: I was home, checking maps while writing this narrative, before I realized the large, dark, flat-topped peak I'd seen from several vantage points while driving the road was the Black Table. I almost didn't include the one photo I took. Black Table appears to be basalt rather than your typical Utah sandstone butte, not surprising considering the geology of the Henry Mountains.

Colorado River

I took UT-276 back north to UT-95 and turned east. Anyone who is familiar with this section of highway probably recalls it parallels a wash that runs all the way to the lake. I've never seen water in it, but this morning it was flowing. I guess all that rain from the east side of the Henry Mountains had to go somewhere. That, along with all the wildflowers, made this an even prettier drive than usual.

I had time so thought I'd stop and take photos of the bridge across the Colorado near Hite. Kind of a tourist thing to do, but don't think I'd stopped once in the last decade, at least. I bet many of you haven't either.

Looking downstream toward Lake Powell

Hite Crossing Bridge

Looking upstream from the bridge.

I also decided to check out Hite, which I don't think I've ever done. When I'd been poking around the internet looking for destinations and places to camp, I kept stumbling across posts praising the camping at the primitive campground there. I had thought Hite was all closed up with the lake so low, but there was only one way to find out. 

Highway to Hite

Well, there were concrete barricades with pretty permanent looking "Temporarily Closed" signs just about everywhere. My determination is that it is all closed up. This is part of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and with funding as it is, I'm guessing this area will stay closed for a while.

Fry Canyon / Moss Back Road

I hadn't placed Moss Back Road as a priority for this trip as I'd camped there twice last year. But it's a gorgeous location and fit in nicely now as a finale to my week in Utah. I pulled off onto Radium King Road, sign posted as Fry Canyon, and proceeded on the gravel road. It turns to dirt before climbing the butte, but was in very good condition. I turned onto Moss Back Road which had minor wash damage. 

I returned to the site where I camped last spring. I'd camped farther in last fall, but this site I think has the most varied and beautiful views of all. I was all set up by 1pm and got in some good relaxing with intervals of walking around taking photos of wildflowers, lizards, rocks, and the views. It was partly cloudy with a mild breeze.

Just look at this view across Red Canyon!

Around 4pm I could hear thunder rumbling and clouds building behind the butte to the north. I could see rain falling across Red Canyon. It got darker and within an hour began to rain lightly, then a bit heavier. Those who also own a camper with an aluminum sheet roof know how it can amplify the sound of the rain. It sounded like a torrent outside, but it was barely wetting the rocks. 

Still I had some concerns if it lasted too long and I didn't know how heavy the rain was on the other side of the butte where the road has more clay to get slippery. Nonetheless, I was well positioned here on solid rock and away from any washes.

The rain didn't last too long and I couldn't see any running water or even puddles out my windows. It remained dark and overcast. It cooled off enough that defrosting and heating up some of my homemade soup sounded attractive for the first time on this trip.

Just before 8pm I noticed there was a gap in the clouds near the western horizon and sunlight was leaking in. I grabbed my camera and scooted out the door. I started taking pictures around my camp, then realized I was going to get actual golden sunlight at an angle to illuminate the Tables of the Sun. I began walking up the road enjoying the beautiful evening taking photos every which way.

When the sun sank below the horizon I began walking back to camp and was treated to the best sunsets of the trip. What a delight.

Sunday May 21

Moss Back Road (continued)

I love this campsite. Just about anywhere else being this close to the road would be a major disadvantage, but I've camped here twice without anyone ever driving by. When I camped two days at the site farther in only two vehicles slowly drove past in all that time.

I got outside just after dawn hoping to capture that wonderful light. I sent the drone up for a spherical panorama. The result is striking as the light before sunrise has brought out the diversity of this landscape of contrasting rock and soils. The spherical panorama I took last year is much prettier and you may prefer to view it.

View on the Kuula site or in the frame below, In either case, click the Full Screen icon in the upper right corner to get the full experience.

I knew I had a full day of driving ahead to get back home, but did take the time to walk the other direction along the road & cliff edge to get more photos. The Cliff Rose bushes were were showing a riot of blossoms. I've never seen such a display. I didn't realize there were so many all around. When not blooming they are just another desert scrub brush.

A Cliff Rose in full bloom.

Cliff Roses on the rock bench with Wingate Mesa in the background.

A close-up photo of the Cliff Rose blossoms.

On the Road Again

It was a lovely morning across southeastern Utah. Lots of wildflowers and views across the canyons to the mountains. I took my usual route including the Cow Canyon Road cut-off to Montezuma Creek. The Globemallows were thick on the shoulder of the road, and as there was no other traffic, I stopped for photos.

I drove south on Red Mesa Road and stopped at Tony's Road for photos of yucca blooming.

Filled my tank at Beclabito then stopped once more for a photo of yet more Globemallow, then again for a giant storm cloud.

I drove though a brief rain shower on US-550 thus completing my record of being rained on every single day of the trip (even if only briefly.) Still, a wonderful trip with mild temperatures and no bad winds—quite the accomplishment for spring. It would have been nice to have a bit more sun for photography, but you probably think I posted more photos than warranted anyhow.

Thanks for following along on my little adventure.

Return to Part 1

SE Utah - May 2014 - Part 4

I spent 6 days exploring southeastern Utah. This included two national parks I'd never visited, Canyonlands and Arches. It would also take me back to Muley Point and to discover a few new areas between those destinations. 

I divided the trip report into four parts to aid digestion. This is part 4, the final installment.

Remember you can see larger versions of the photos by clicking on one of them.

Canyonlands National Park: Island in the Sky
and Canyon Rims National Recreation Area

May 7, 2014 continued

Dubinky Road

I think I mentioned I'd stopped at the Interagency Information Center on Main Street in Moab for info on dispersed camping on BLM lands around Moab. Due to the high number of visitors, this area is controlled much more strictly than your usual BLM lands in the west. You really need a map to determine if you are required to camp in a campground, camp area, designated area, etc. and the rules for trash and waste. All campgrounds and sites are first come, first serve. They have a whole 8 page "newspaper" with maps, lists and descriptions to help you figure all this out, it is a must have.

With the help of a knowledgeable gentleman, we determined that the dispersed campsites out Dubinky Road, between Arches and Canyonlands: Island in the Sky, might suit me. You get there by turning at the (very small) sign for Lone Mesa Group Camp off State Route 313. I missed the turn the first time in broad daylight.

To greatly shorten the story, I passed by a few areas already full of 5er's, RVs and ATVs. I found a narrow "designated" road headed south and I was hoping to find a hill, bluff, tree, or something to block my camper from the winds. I drove through a wide prairie, which I later learned is Dubinky Flat, to what seemed like the middle of nowhere. I would have turned back, but the road was too narrow and about 2 feet below grade. By the time I found a place I could have turned around, there was a giant, interesting looking, hill-shaped rock about a mile ahead and I wound my way there hoping for a sheltered camping spot. I switched on the 4WD toward the end as the road, and especially the turn-off, became very sandy.

I found a great spot as it turns out, in the lee of the giant rock. There was a good sized piñon to boot, and previous campers had left a large rock fire ring (complete with empty ammunition boxes) and a stack of cut wood. But best of all was the shelter from the wind. Again it was too cloudy for my hoped for star photography. I spent a quiet night.

May 8th

Another cloudy day, but with some morning light. It was pleasant enough to take a few photos and explore "my" rock, though I did not climb to the top.

Campsite and a small shoulder of the rock.

Looking down at my camp, from that shoulder.

From the vantage of the rock's shoulder (or maybe its ankle) I could see large trucks on a road to the south. I was later able to determine that road led to an oil well and became heavily used by tank trucks and what looked like strange cement mixers, but may have been carrying fracking mixture for all I know. I was glad I was off the beaten path. I had breakfast, took a little hike, then packed up to drive to Canyonlands, taking a photo of the rock hill as I retraced my path back to Dubinky Road and 313.

Campsite beside the rock hill. Estimating from a topo map, it's about 150' tall.

Canyonlands National Park: Island in the Sky

Island in the Sky is a narrow, branching mesa along the top of 1000 foot cliffs. There are foot trails, but not nearly as many as at The Needles. As my feet and knees were sore, I was happy enough to drive to the various overlooks and take one short, steep hike to look over the mysterious Upheaval Dome. The park is also noted for the famous White Rim Road - an adventure saved for another trip.

View from across the road from the Visitor Center

I drove first to Upheaval Dome, in the forlorn hope that the skies would clear later. It was an interesting hike. I took a large panorama from the first overlook. After processing it at home, I've decided not to save it as it just looks like an uninteresting pile of dirt. It's one of those very cool places that you just have to see with your own eyes.

Flowers along the trail to the dome overlook.

Next, I headed to the Green River Overlook. Another spectacular vista that you have to see with your own eyes. Again, my panorama does not do it justice, so I'll only display two photos of details of the scene. I did have a nice conversation with a young man who was a park service volunteer. I asked him about the White Rim Road, a section of which was laid out before us, down below. He allowed it was great fun and easy for the most part, only a few very steep, very narrow sections -  he mentioned Murphy's Hogback. We could actually see two jeeps moving along the road. He said there were some rough spots, but no steps or other technical features that should cause trouble for a Tacoma. To drive the road does take advanced planning as it is at least a two day drive and backcountry permits must be obtained. In prime season, those should be reserved ahead of time. Watching videos at home makes me really want to take that adventure.

Cliff edge and vista from Green River Overlook.

Zoomed in on a small section of the view, showing a gooseneck of the Green River
and a piece of the White Rim Road on the left and right.

Next stop was the picnic area at White Rim Overlook.

A view from the picnic area. I think this might be Gooseberry Canyon.

After lunch I drove to the Grand View Overlook. Had the weather been nicer, it actually drizzled for a few minutes, I might have told my knees to buckle up and taken the hike to the actual Grand View Point as it was only 2 miles there and back. So you'll have to be content to accept this panorama and a closer view of Monument Basin.

Monument Basin from Grand View Overlook.

Zooming in on a section of the basin. Notice the road and the white canyon rim.

It was time to start heading out of the park, as I wanted to get across and down to the Canyon Rims area for my last night before heading home.

I believe this is Buck Canyon, and again you can see White Rim Road.

Colorado River Recreation Area

In one of the national park visitor centers I'd admired a large relief map. In doing so I noticed a deep, winding canyon of which I was unaware, stretching northwest from above Moab. I decided to briefly explore up that way on State Route 128, before continuing south. The photo below is not the most dramatic, as I waited for a safe pull-out to take the picture.

Colorado River along Utah 128

There are many BLM camping areas along the river. I'd seen them listed on their website and maps, but was still surprised by the reality. Some of them are right on the Colorado and fairly secluded from one another, in others you'd be watching your neighbors as much as the scenery. Still, no getting around the fantastic views of the river and canyon walls. Moab has a great bike lane system and there is a beautiful, smooth asphalt path that runs along the river and provides great access to the first few camping areas. As none of the individual sites are reservable, theoretically you have as good a chance as anyone of getting a primo site. But I suspect there are large families or small groups of friends who send advanced scouts a few days ahead to try and snag a good one; I know that's what I would have done back in the day!

A nice couple from Colorado in a big Lance pop-up camper, who I met later that night, said there were good sites downstream on Utah 279. I may have a to check those out next time.

Canyon Rims National Recreation Area

After having a green chile cheese burger in Moab, I continued south on US-191, then took the turn onto the paved Needles Lookout Road toward the BLM Canyon Rims NRA. (The BLM may be the nemesis of a certain dead-beat rancher, but they're a godsend for those of us who love to camp and enjoy the wild spaces of the American Southwest!)

I took a look at their Windwhistle Campground, which is about 9 miles in from the main highway. It looked pretty nice and is situated in an area with large cliffs and a lovely view. Still, I wanted to go to the Needles Overlook and would check out areas for dispersed camping out that way.

The Needles Overlook is extremely nice. The BLM has done a wonderful job. There are easy sidewalks for those who need them, fun climbs for others, picnic tables, natural landscaping, informational placards and vault toilets. The views are spectacular.

Looking toward the north toward Island of the Sky.

Looking southerly across Indian Creek Canyon with the Abajo Mountains in the background.
You can see the Lockhart Basin Rd, which I drove a few days before.

Turn around to see the La Sal Mountains to the northeast.

As I drove away from the overlook, I took a dirt road north where I'd look for a campsite. Not too many that way that weren't taken, unless I wanted to be out in the open, susceptible to high winds. There were a couple of sites with fantastic views south of the paved road a few miles east of the lookout, but according to one BLM map these were not designated sites, though people had obviously camped there. I stopped there, relaxed a while and admired the views, but decided I'd been beaten by the wind enough on this trip and headed back to the Windwhistle Campground which was sheltered by the surrounding cliffs.

My site at Windwhistle.

There is also quite a nice nature trail located past the group campsite. It is in an alcove in the cliffs and worth checking out if you're in the area. I took the following photo as the sun was going down.

Windwhistle Rock in the early evening light.

Despite the promise of the photo above, there was no sunset worth photographing that night, either.

May 9th

I got up early, didn't even stop for breakfast, but broke camp and drove quickly back out to Needles Overlook. I was hoping for a nice sunrise or early light on the canyons and cliffs. Alas, the weather continued to not cooperate. Here is a panorama, similar to the one taken the previous afternoon, though from a slightly different spot. You can see the shadow of the overlook stretching across the valley.

Indian Creek Canyon vista.

That's pretty much it, folks. I headed back to the highway, turned south on 191 toward Monticello. I found a little cafe on US-491 that I'd be taking to Cortez, Colorado, before turning south to New Mexico. It is called PJ's and I recommend it to you. You have to order your food and pay at the counter, but then they bring it to your table. Every item was freshly cooked and delicious. They even placed little Ball jars of homemade marmalade on the table. Now normally I'm not a big fan, as it is a little tart for my taste, but this was mild, sweet and delicious. I can't recommend that famous diner in Moab, but PJ's breakfast restore my faith in mankind :-)

I hope you enjoyed "coming along" on my camping trip to SE Utah. Leave your questions or comments, below, as I enjoy those. And I hope to meet you on the trail.