Hell's Backbone, Spencer Flat, Natural Bridges, and Comb Wash - September 2016: Part 4

Southern Utah - September 2016
Spectacular Switchbacks, a Secret (Camp) Site, and Hidden Splendor

Part 4 of 4:
Hell's Backbone Road, Spencer Flat, Natural Bridges, and Comb Wash

Tuesday, September 20th (continued from Part 3)

Click on any photo to see larger versions - highly recommended!

Boulder

I thought I might stop in Boulder for lunch, but first I wanted to see if I could find the reported Escalante National Monument visitor center. It took driving through town and back to notice the sign - the VC is inside the building that hosts Anasazi State Park. Inside I found the information counter with a small sign saying "Sorry We Missed You" and advising visiting the interagency visitor center in the town of Escalante. There were maps, brochures, and a permit pad at the desk, so I guess that covers most needs.

I wanted to ask about the approaching rain and condition of Hell's Backbone Road that I'd heard about and was interested in exploring. The state park building did have good, free wifi, but I wanted local information. I lucked out as a state park ranger wandered within view. I asked him about the rain and where I had hoped to drive. He stepped outside and looked at the clouds, which pleased me. He said, "Rain usually rolls in from that direction," pointing SW; "and Hell's Backbone is that direction," pointing to the NW. "I believe you will have plenty of time to drive the road, but I wouldn't want to try it this evening." That was all I needed to know. I thanked him and hurried off - lunch could wait.

Hell's Backbone Road

The view from the first few miles of the road.

I drove southwest out of Boulder on UT-12, the road climbing up a sandstone mesa, and turned off north on Hell's Backbone Road, which was built by the CCC in 1933 to connect Escalante and Boulder. It travels through rolling hills, then ranch/farm country for a while before ascending onto the mountain, complete with pines and evergreens. I didn't know what to expect along the road, the only photos I'd seen didn't include forests. Perhaps I shouldn't have been surprised, I'd been driving in Dixie National Forest since turning off the main highway. I came to a bit of old road and drove in a short ways to have a picnic lunch.

I stopped here for lunch. You can see this old road is blocked behind my truck. Folks had camped here.

Resuming my drive toward the west, I soon came upon Sand Creek. It looked like there were dispersed campsites along there and a forest road heading north. Looking at Google Maps since my return home, I can see a forest road that follows the creek and should provide a number of camping opportunities. There are other forest roads in the area, as well.

As the road climbs out of the little valley of Sand Creek, domes of white sandstone appear on the north side of the road. Only a short while later the iconic views I'd been expecting from the advanced PR opened up on the south side of the road. Wow! I seem to be using (or over using) the term "dramatic" in this post, but what else can I say? Spectacular? Yes, at least that. I stopped to take photos that cannot begin even in the smallest way convey the breath-taking drop and view toward the Box-Death Hollow Wilderness. I suddenly wished I had a stereoscopic camera, but don't know how I could get you a stereoscopic viewer - perhaps in a few years when we all have VR goggles.

The view to the south over the chasms of the Box-Death Hollow Wilderness.

On the north side of the road, more colorful rock formation and aspen covered mountainside.

Hell's Backbone Bridge

Here is a little information on the road and its construction.

View of the bridge from the side.

I crossed the famous single-lane bridge over the top of the spine, after stopping for more photos. The road continues through the forest, back a ways from the edge of the canyon. I stopped to photograph some aspen that were already turning, but as the sky was still threatening rain I kept to the main road and didn't turn off to look at Posey Lake or its campground.

The elevation in this area was about 9000'

Escalante

I reached town just as it was starting to sprinkle and I got gas first thing. I then drove to the west side where the consolidated, interagency Visitor Center is located. I wanted an update on the weather and their opinion if it was safe/risky to drive out Hole in the Rock road to find camping. I was already thinking of heading back home as the weather report I got in Boulder indicated that the rain would last for days.

They said it would rain, but did not know how hard, though the ranger said when the chance of rain was 80%, as it was, that usually meant lots of rain. The young man at the information counter and I discussed options and I settled on Spencer Flat Road as a destination. He helped me fill out a permit, which is required for all overnight camping in Grand Staircase-Escalente National Monument (and Glen Canyon National Monument, too.) The permits are free and you don't have to be too specific in your final spot.

There is a nice, little organic grocery store along the main street, next door to the Escalante Post Office. A bit pricey, as you would expect, but I wanted fresh fruit which they had. They also had lots of frozen items - also not a surprise at this outpost. To balance this out, I stopped at Nemo's before leaving town for a pretty good cheeseburger and fries.

I drove east out of Escalente on UT-12 in light rain. The turnoff would be in about 10 miles, in the middle of the big switchback where the highway drops off the rock cliffs, at mile marker 70.

Spencer Flat Road

I found the road easily and turned south. Very quickly I spotted a nice campsite just off the road with some small trees. Not one to take the very first site, and it was not that far off the busy highway, I continued down Spencer Flat Road. There were a couple side roads within the first mile or so that likely led to sites, but there were also a couple of washes that might be problematic if the ranger's heavy rain came in the night.

I turned around and pulled into that first site. Though it was within one or two hundred feet of the highway, the pavement was below the cut for the most part and it was a nice level site with a bit of a view. I got the top up and the items I store in the truck cab moved into the camper in time for a pretty good rain shower at around 4pm. I sat inside, listened to satellite radio and finished a good book I'd been reading.

My campsite just off Spencer Flat Road.

Head of the Rocks

An hour or so later the rain had stopped, though the sky was still overcast. I decided to explore a bit as there was a hint of a path leading to a promontory nearby. I took my camera hoping to find a place to overlook the dramatic little valley. I was able to skirt a cattle fence and with an easy climb was delighted with the wonderful view over the white sandstone canyon. The photos look a little flat, especially with the overcast, but the landscape was anything but flat.

The depth and breadth of the view was wonderful as were the colors.

From the end of a promontory, decorated with a cairn, you can see the state highway descend.

When I'd first driven through here in 2013 after visiting Bryce Canyon, I was totally amazed when the highway dropped off the flats into this scene of twisted and domed rock. On that sunny day, I stopped on the other side and took a photo looking back west.

View looking west at Head of the Rocks from my May 2013 trip.

I've now seen this geologic feature referred to as Head of the Rocks. It seems to be comprised of Navajo Sandstone, Kayenta Formation, and Wingate Sandstone. If you are interested in the geology of the national monument you will want to view this pdf.

iPhone panorama (180º plus) of the view of Head of the Rocks.

It only rained lightly during the night and the traffic on the highway dropped to nil once it got dark.

Wednesday

Spencer Flat Road (continued)

As the roads were still in good shape, though the clouds were heavy, I decided to explore farther down Spencer Flat Road after breaking camp. The road roughly parallels the rim of the valley and there did seem to be a number of dispersed sites available. The road climbed a moderately steep and rocky section, then went across a cattle guard. At the top of that rise was a large site close to the rim with a few junipers. I may come back here in future. I turned around there, headed back to the highway, and proceded east.

Back on the Highway

I did not stop at the Boyton Overlook as the heavy cloud cover muted the colors and view. here is the photo I took of the overlook my first time by here.

Boyton Overlook from my May 2013 trip.

I did pull into the campground at Calf Creek Recreation area, as I'd heard it was a lovely spot. It is indeed an oasis in this rugged canyon country. The sign said the campground was full, but there were a number of empty spots where campers had recently pulled out. You should grab a spot early if you wish to camp here. This is also the trailhead for Lower Calf Creek Falls, a hike that was recommended to me.

I didn't stop and photograph the Hog's Back this trip either, as the light rain diminished the view. Here is a photo from my earlier trip.

The Hog's Back from my May 2013 trip.

It was lightly raining as I traversed Boulder Mountain on highway 12. The gorgeous views off to the south and east of the canyon country that I'd enjoyed on my previous trip through here were veiled by mist. The road even passed though pockets of heavy fog. I was heartened to see that even in the few years since I last drove through, the aspen groves had made great strides toward recovery.

Torrey

I wanted to fuel my belly, so stopped at the Capitol Reef Inn & Cafe in Torrey. It was around 11am. They said they were only serving breakfast, which was OK with me. For some reason I ordered waffles with fresh strawberries and a side of scrambled eggs. They were OK, but nothing special. They did have good wifi, however, and I was able to examine the brochures I'd picked up earlier and come up with a travel plan.

Capitol Reef Petroglyphs

I'd seen the sign on the main highway for petroglyphs when driving by days before. This pass I had time to stop and check them out. The national park constrains visitors to a wooden walkway, the far end had been closed due to a fallen cottonwood.

This is the main panel which is just off the parking area.

This faint animal panel was down the walkway.

This arch-typical figure was the last before the walkway was closed.

I drove back east on UT-24, stopped in Hanksville for gas, then drove down UT-95 toward Lake Powell. This section seemed much more scenic than on my last trip, perhaps as it was about 40 degrees cooler. I made a quick stop at the lake overlook to see just how low the lake had fallen, then proceded to Natural Bridges National Monument

Natural Bridges

The only time I'd been here was late on a hot, windy afternoon so only took a few photos from the overlooks. I'd wanted to hike down into the canyon for photos this time, but again it was late in the day, so only hiked down the shortest trail to Owachomo Bridge. I also took photos from the rim viewpoints, and with the scattered light from the overcast, the images turned out better than those from my previous trip.

Sipapu Bridge from the overlook.

Kachina Bridge from the overlook.

iPhone panorama (180º plus) of the canyon and Kachina Bridge.

Owachomo Bridge from the trail.

I had anticipated the campground at Natural Bridges would be full. It's small and popular. If you're curious, it filled at 1:15pm on this day. It would have been a convenient stop, but I already had a plan. When talking to David and Peggy back in Moab, they'd raved about what a wonderful place Comb Wash was to explore and camp. I'd seen the road and sign at the southern terminus of the wash every time I drove between Bluff and points west, and had always wondered about it.

Comb Wash

One of the brochures I'd picked up at the info center in Torrey was the 50 page San Juan County: Utah's Canyon Country (www.utahscanyoncountry.com 800-574-4386). It is worth requesting. I was looking though it to figure my plans for the day/evening while having lunch in Torrey. In the back, in the list of public campgrounds, I found Comb Wash listed as a primitive campground of the BLM, 12 miles west of Blanding on US-95. That was about the extent of the listing, they gave the phone number and URL for BLM Monticello. I used the wifi back in Torrey to check out the web page and there was absolutely no mention of Comb Wash Campground in the Monticello District's web pages. Curious. Well, I knew about where Comb Was was located and the area had been recommended, so I would go looking.

Secret Campground

I passed the junction to UT-261 that leads south, though Cedar Mesa, to the Moki Dugway and points beyond. As I continued along 95 I saw quite a number of dirt roads leading off on both sides of the highway - lots of places to explore.

There is no mistaking when the highway drops off Cedar Mesa into Comb Wash. I spotted what looked like camp trailers several hundred yards south of the highway in the riparian area of the wash. I slowed, looking for a BLM or highway sign. There was none, and I could have easily missed the road had I not been looking for it. Once off the highway there were large flat areas on either side of the road that would be suitable for large 5th wheel trailers or mobile homes. There was a BLM single-panel info kiosk with a map of Comb Wash, but no mention of a campground.

I continued down the narrow, sandy road and stopped abreast of a couple out walking. I asked about the campground. The sky was dark and the forecast was still for rain, so I didn't want to drive too far or get beyond a place on the road that could wash out in a storm. They said there was a very nice campground just ahead, complete with vault toilets, and they believed there were a couple of spots open, or there might be more camping farther down the road.

I pulled in and it looked nice, but of course I had to explore a bit farther before settling. There was another, occupied, camping area just south of there, then the road went through a deep wash before continuing. I decided to be prudent, turn around, and take of of the sites in the official campground. I found a beautiful spot beside the cottonwood trees among sage, brush, grasses, and wildflowers. The camp sites also had fire rings, but I didn't start a fire. It was a pleasant evening and night with only a few sprinkles.

My campsite in Comb Wash.

Thursday

I took a short walk through the riparian area (assuming I can use that term for a wash that is dry most of the year.) I enjoyed the trees, bushes, and wildflowers as I ambled down the dry channel. I returned to my camp and packed up.

Near my campsite.

I drove east up the highway, literally up the incline toward the cut in the cliff. I pulled off to take a few photos of the wash and surrounding area, including the camping area.

Spectacular view of the highway as it climbs out of Comb Wash.

Looking across the wash from the highway. You can see the campground below.

One more look at the northern end of Comb Wash.

On the road

I followed my navigation app's directions toward home. It routed me east on UT-95, south on US-191, east on UT-262, then east on UT-162.

View from UT-262 on the way home.

I cut the corner of Colorado and back to Shiprock, NM, where I stopped for lunch. I drove east into Farmington and was dreading the stretch from there through Bloomfield, but this time the app chose the route bypassing the awful congestion. Hooray! If you, too, would like to take this alternate route, follow County Road 5500 between US-64 and US-550 (I hope it will be easy to remember as going NW, you turn off 550 to 5500.)

There were several thunderstorms in the area as I drove southeast on 550. I hit a couple and missed a couple. I caught a little "rush hour" traffic as I got close to the city, but made it home safely.

Home again

All in all, an excellent trip! I could have wished for more sun and less rain the last couple of days, but I'm not going to complain. I saw lots of beautiful scenery and now am full of ideas of places to explore next time.

I hope you enjoyed following me along the trail.

Hidden Splendor and Cathedral Valley - September 2016: Part 2

Southern Utah - September 2016
Spectacular Switchbacks, a Secret (Camp) Site, and Hidden Splendor

Part 2 of 4:
Hidden Splendor, San Rafael Swell, and Cathedral Valley

Friday, September 16 (continued from Part 1)

Click on any photo to see larger versions - highly recommended!

I was looking forward to the Southern Utah Wilderness Alliance "Roundup" at an evocatively named area called Hidden Splendor, the location of an old uranium mine. SUWA is made up of people from Utah and around the nation who share the common goal of preserving Utah’s remaining desert wild lands, the redrock wilderness. This non-profit works to defend the wilderness from rampant oil & gas development, unnecessary road construction and destructive off-road vehicle use, and other influences that are threatening the fragile ecosystem and prehistoric native artifacts. The roundup would include guided day hikes. A chance for me to see a wild part of Utah that would be new to me.

I was informed there are two ways to enter the San Rafael Swell to the Hidden Splendor mine area where the SUWA roundup was to be held: from the north off I-70, which was a bit longer, but smoother; from the east off UT-24, cutting through the reef. I decided I'd go in from the north and leave to the east, thus see both.

San Rafael Swell and Hidden Splendor

I took exit 131 from the freeway and drove south. The road across the prairie was in good condition and I was able to cruise atop the washboard quite comfortably. The last section leading off the swell down into the canyons was a little rough, but many folks did it in their passenger cars. Fortunately, SUWA placed small directional signs at the many crossroads to keep us on track.

"Main Street" for the SUWA roundup was an airstrip with the main tent erected beside the airstrip and the entrance road. We could camp along, but not on the airstrip, or along the road that crosses it. We were provided a map showing suggested camping areas with a request not to camp in any previously undisturbed areas. There were already lots of folks set up. I found a spot to the side of the strip near the east end not far from a few other attendees.

Camping area for the SUWA roundup. You can just make out the tent ramada of headquarters.

I set up camp including my new solar panel and tarp-based awning, said hello to my neighbors, and walked down to the SUWA tent for an informal social hour. The wind had come up in the interval and although the awning was still up, it was flapping and making noise by the time I returned to camp. I took it down rather than listen to the flapping. (That night while waiting for sleep I came up with an idea to try in the morning to address the flapping.)

My neighbors, Tracy from Park City, UT and Barry from all over, and I sat out talking and watched the moon rise.

Saturday

I had signed up for a hike down Muddy Creek this morning, but as it didn't start until 10am I had time to erect my awning using my new plan. The edge of the tarp along the roofline had been lifting and catching the wind the evening before. I already had one tensioning line running forward. My idea was to attach a second tensioning line and run it aft - this would keep the edge along the roof taut and prevent it, theoretically, from catching the wind. (A more complete description of my awning can be found on the Wander The West forums.)

Muddy Creek

We gathered at the main tent, then walked down the road to the dugway down to the creek. This was my first look into the canyon and it was much deeper than I'd realized. Half the group was going to hike up the creek. I was with the group going downstream.

Walking down to Muddy Creek

Muddy Creek - looking upstream.

The creek was very wide in this section, but not deep.

As we started out the canyon walls were far apart and didn't appear that high. We walked across the stream a couple of times. It was shallow enough it didn't top my boots as long as I found the right section or well placed rocks. We found a deserted mining camp and a couple blocked mine entrances.

Old mining buildings on the terrace above Muddy Creek.

Old mine entrance.

The canyon walls moved closer together to the serpentine path of the creek. Usually there was a terrace on one side or the other. We frequently crossed one of these from one side of a loop to another. Often following the creek was the only way.

Beautiful reflection in a still portion of the creek.

Fellow hikers pause to examine animal tracks in the mud.

About three miles in we stopped to eat our lunches. Some folks turned around there to head back to camp. I continued about another mile, even though I knew my feet would regret it. The temptation to see what's around the next bend in the canyon is strong. One the way back I had to doctor a blister on my foot despite having used moleskin before starting out.

Red and white cliffs delight!

A couple of us walked up to another of our party who was sketching something. He pointed out a pictograph high on the canyon wall oposite. I didn't have my telephoto lens, so didn't try to photograph it. We could only see it by using the artist's monocular. It was a humanoid figure in red ocher of the typical "broad shoulders with a body tapering down to a point" style.

I made it back to camp in the mid-afternoon. I had time to sit in the shade of my camper, admire the rugged scenery, and rehydrate before the scheduled gathering for the potluck supper.

A closer look at my new awning and solar panel. My chair and a cool drink was on the other side in the shade. The ground was both hard and crumbled around the tarp stakes - I had to use big rocks to help hold the guy lines.

SUWA Dinner and Meeting

I had asked one of the organizers, prior to the trip, if there was something I could bring to the potluck that didn't involve cooking, as that isn't my strong suit. He said cookies were always very popular. So I stopped at the bakery before leaving Albuquerque and bought two big boxes of cookies - they were indeed popular.

SUWA Executive Director, Scott Groene, speaks about the organizations challenges and progress.

We had a delicious dinner thanks to all the other participants. Several officiers of SUWA spoke afterwards on their mission to protect these wild lands in the face of increased pressure of oil & gas development, and the difficulty in dealing with the Utah legislature that seemed to only support development and motorized recreation rather than preservation of this fragile and unique resource.

Sunday

I had taken down the tarp awning and stowed the solar panel the evening before, so had only the usual steps to break camp. I wanted to be all buttoned up ready to travel before driving to the event tent for the furnished continental breakfast, that way I could take off from there. They provided lots of good, hot coffee; fresh fruit; yoghurt; various muffins; juices; etc. They also had a grill fired up and you could have them grill one of the varieties of fresh bagel in butter - that was a treat.

Folks stood around talking about the event, Utah, hiking, camping, etc. while enjoying the food. I initially thought I'd grab a bite and get on the road, but stuck around for a while enjoying the conversation with my new friends and associates.

Looking back toward Hidden Spelendor on the way out.

Temple Mountain

As I left the area I stopped a couple of times to take photos back toward where the roundup had been held. At breakfast one of the organizers told us of a nice pictograph panel to view on the way out. He said it had, unfortunately, been shot up in the past, but was still worth seeing. It was in the area where the road cut through the reef, just past a small campground. I almost missed it as there was road construction equipment parked at the spot where they were replacing a small bridge.

Temple Mountain Petroglyph panel

A closer look at the wonderful figures in the right side of the panel. Most of the damage appears to be due to the facade of the rock panel flaking away over time, but then a few moron humans had to make their marks.

One of the figures had indeed suffered gunshots, but the bigger loss to the panel seems to be due to the facade of the cliff simply flaking away over time. Still it is an amazing scene despite the vandalism.

East entrance through San Rafael Reef. Goblin Valley is to the left. The main highway is behind the photographer.

Once out of the reef, the road is paved. One way leads to Goblin Valley State Park, the other east to UT-24, where I turned south.

Hanksville

I turned right at the junction, still following 24, and gassed up in Hanksville. I stopped for lunch at the same place as my first trip through in 2013, Duke's Slickrock Grill. I asked if they still had wifi, and the receptionist provided their login info. Lunch was good, not great, but I could tell they are making an effort. The wifi was slow, but I was able to check my email.

Cathedral Valley

I was going to enter the Cathedral Valley Loop Drive via the north, Caineville, entrance just west of "town." Town in this case consists of one motel, a Rodeway Inn. I drove right past the turnoff as I was expecting some sort of sign from the BLM or park service, but there was only a county road sign that didn't even say Cathedral Valley Road or Caineville Wash Road. Once I turned around and entered the dirt road there was an brief informational sign to indicate I was on the right path.

There was a fork in the road fairly soon with the better, more heavily traveled side to the left - keep right here. Fortunately, my Garmin navigation app when in general map mode will display the name of the road or highway on which its traveling and as I proceded up the right fork, it displayed "N. Hartnett Rd. Cathedral Valley Rd." (looking at Google maps later, the other fork appears to lead to an airstrip!?) Lots of washboard on this section, or corrugations as our Aussie friends say. Stay left at the next fork lest you end up at Factory Butte.

The rugged landscape along Cathedral Valley Road

Interesting Bentonite hill. Click to enlarge and note the small rock sitting at the apex.

More dips and twists along the road.

The road twists and turns through some wild and interesting lands - sandstone, horizontally stripped Bentonite hills, and lots of rocks, sand, and washes.

Entering Cathedral Valley.

When I got into Cathedral Valley proper, and formally Capitol Reef National Park, I was somewhat surprised to see the cathedral monoliths are a unique light brown sandstone. They were formed by erosion. I stopped to view and photograph the Temples of the Moon and Sun.

Temple of the Moon in the foreground; Temple of the Sun behind to the left.

I stopped to view the Gypsum Sinkhole, which is difficult to photograph. It's kind of interesting, but if you're running low on time for some reason, you could skip it. Though I did photograph some cool volcanic dikes on my way back to the main road.

Volcanic dikes.

At the end of the valley the road climbs steeply and is extremely bumpy and rocky. There are views of the valley along there. Shortly after achieving the top, there is the turn off to the campground.

View of Cathedral Valley from along side the road.

Cathedral Valley Campground

I pulled into the official, first-come, no-fee campground. One is only allowed to camp in official campgrounds in the national park. It has six sites and five of them were occupied. I left my orange "occupied" bucket at the site as I wanted to check out the Upper Cathedral Valley Lookout before settling. My friend, Achim, said it was too rough to drive, but I had no problem. It was a nice view north over the valley.

[If you want view Cathedral Valley by a shorter route, I'm told you can enter from UT-72, north of Loa. I cannot vouch for the road, as I didn't go that way, but I can tell you it took me about 5 hours to drive in from Caineville, and 4 hours to drive out via the river ford.]

My campsite with solar panel deployed.

I returned to the campground and began sitting up. I heard a greeting from behind me and turned around to find one of my new friends from the SUWA roundup remarking about it being a small world. I'd met Kathy on the Muddy Creek hike and later ran into her at the rest stop on the way out of San Rafael Swell earlier in the day. She'd driven in from Hartnett Road across the ford, while I was winding my way in from the Caineville entrance.

Unfortunately, even though there is a view of Cathedral Valley from the campground, I was so wrapped up in setting up camp or having dinner or something that I lost track of time. By the time I realized I should have been taking photos of the monoliths in the valley, the sun had sunk too far down. If I had a photographers guild card, I'd have to give it up after this fiasco.

View toward Moab and the La Sal Mountains.

Later in the evening Kathy rescued me from the blunder of not having a corkscrew and was rewarded by sharing my wine as we told stories of journeys past and recounted favorite books & authors.

Sunset over Thousand Lakes Mountain. You should be able to just make out the groves of golden aspen on the mountain's flanks.

Monday

Cathedral Valley (continued)

After leaving the campground I turned right, then at the junction, left on Hartnett Road. I stopped at each and every overlook to take photos and admire the view. The road wound though some amazing and strange formations and geology.

Cathedral Valley from the upper valley overlook.

Turning around I was greeted with this sight of the moon setting over Thousand Lakes Mountain.

Just off Hartnett Road, not far from the campground, is the Upper South Desert Overlook

Much farther down the road, and after a short walk, you are treated to this view of the Lower South Desert

Yes, I was fascinated by the colorful Bentonite Hills.

Hartnett Road continues down from the hills and across a basin.

A reminder of the rough life in the desert.

I crossed the river ford (if that's the word for driving up river for about 100' before attaining the bank on the other side.) to once again acquire UT-24 and headed west toward the park entrance.

Capitol Reef National Park

Having never driven the official scenic drive though the park, I thought that would be in order. Of course it seemed like every tourist in the world was out on the road, too. I saw folks trying to capture the reef using action cams. One fellow had his attached to the driver's side window - imagine the video from that twisty road; another was actually holding his out the driver's window using a short stick - I defy him to watch more than one minute of the result.

Along the Scenic Drive.

The main scenic drive was scenic enough, though not much more than you'd see along many highways in redrock/canyon country. The dirt Capitol Gorge road at the end of the pavement was pretty amazing and was worth putting up with the tourists on the main drive. Not that there were any less on the dirt road, but everyone was staring up at the canyon walls in amazement, so it was less obtrusive. The canyon walls were so close together and so large, there was no way to achieve any sort of meaningful photo even with my widest lens.

I drove back to the main park entrance and headed toward Torrey, the closest town to the park and the only place to gas up before I headed back into the wilds. At the junction between UT-24 and UT-12 is a tourist information bureau in a converted gas station. I stopped in and gathered a bunch of maps, pamphlets, and brochures - that would pay off later.

After getting gas I drove back east on UT-24 past the park entrance.

Continued in Part 3: Waterpocket Fold, Halls Creek Overlook, and Burr Trail