San Juan Mountains, CO - May 2026

Colorado Mountains and S.E. Utah

May 12 - 17, 2026

After missing all of last year's camping season due to chronic back pain, I was both excited and apprehensive about my first excursion this spring. I had been encouraged by months of physical therapy. Enough that I'd purchased a "smart telescope" to take along for the gloriously dark skies along the backroads (more on this later.) My intention, therefore, was to head to SE Utah where the low horizon would also let me photograph the low springtime Milky Way. However as I approached launch day a heatwave moved into the Four Corners. Research using Wunderground led me instead to the mountains of SW Colorado where the temperatures would be more moderate and only one day, Wednesday, showed the possibility of clouds and rain. Turns out there was more than one day of clouds and rain, but the best laid plans...

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Tuesday, May 12th

On the Road Again

I had originally hoped to get away on Monday, but pulling everything together after more than a year's hiatus took an extra day. I took my usual route up US-550 and the Navajo cutoff to Shiprock NM. From there to Cortez CO, Dolores, then up the road that follows the West Fork of the Dolores River. As an aside, travelers, the gas station in Shiprock on the Cortez highway has reopened.

Dunton Road

Sandstone cliffs along the valley near Dunton.

From earlier explorations I thought I'd drive up Black Mesa Road at Dunton. It was farther to Dunton than I'd remembered. I drove past lots of private land and fabulous summer homes. I'd camped up above Dunton years ago and seemed to remember seeing meadows that might have camping. I wanted an open meadow so I'd have a clear view of the sky for the telescope. 

Black Mesa Road

I found a lovely long meadow, or park as they are called in Colorado, with a nice level spot to setup near a fire ring from previous visitors. The meadow was green and dotted with dandelions and bluebells.

My viewing chair.

It was a beautiful afternoon with only a few clouds and lots of sun. I sat in my chair and admired the view across the meadow toward some high peaks to the south that still had a little snow. I was also able to do most of my physical therapy exercises for my back on my bunk, which was good to learn as I was unsure if I'd have enough room. 

I picked two deep space galaxies to schedule for astrophotography and set up the telescope on my sturdy tripod oriented north. Once it was dark I went out into the cold and did my "equatorial mode" calibration, synced the scope with the schedule in the app, crossed my fingers and went to bed listening to the coyotes sing.

Wednesday, May 13th

Black Mesa Road (continued)

I was bitter cold overnight, perhaps not unexpected at over 9500' elevation. I don't know exactly how cold as my indoor/outdoor thermometer display unit had disappeared (I'd find it late that afternoon behind the sofa cushions, as cliched as that sounds LOL.) There was plenty of birdsong when I got up, but I stayed inside reading with the furnace on for a while until the sun could do it's thing.

I checked the telescope and it had completed its schedule. The previews looked good. I'd download the images to my laptop later for a better look and to see if I could do a little preliminary processing using the software I'd installed before the trip.

I tried to take photos of the lance-leaf bluebells, but it was challenging with their blossoms so close to the ground. Since I'd camped I'd been hearing singing frogs up the slope where there were willows growing. Not a stream as that was farther away the other direction. I wandered up that way later in the afternoon and found it was quite marshy, perhaps a seep. There were wild strawberries growing up there, as well as marsh marigolds.

Dandelions are beautiful out in the wilds.

Wild Strawberry in bloom

Lance-leaf Bluebells

Graceful Buttercup

Marsh Marigolds thriving in the seep.

We called this Skunk Cabbage, but it apparently has nothing to do with the plant of the same name found in the eastern U.S. These were all over the meadows.
It's also neither corn nor a lily.

Looking back at my campsite from the marshy area.

When I examined the astro photos on the computer I didn't get very good results using one program and the other wouldn't run as the processing scripts had not downloaded. I'd wait until I got home to post process.

I was again in my chair enjoying the views though concerned with the clouds that were moving in. I caught some movement way down at the farthest edge of the park. I pulled out my binoculars and saw a small herd of elk. Oh, sez I, this is a chance to test out the terrestrial function of the smart telescope that includes tracking. I did indeed get images and a little video of the Rocky Mountain Elk which was fun. Didn't get much of a test of the tracking function as they were just foraging in one spot.

Rocky Mountain Elk

Game Trail perhaps from those elk

Sure enough it looked like rain and was certainly overcast, so stowed my gear in the cab or under the truck. It rained some overnight, but at least it wasn't quite so cold.

Thursday, May 14th

Black Mesa Road (continued)

I planned a change of venue for today, so leisurely packed up. Before leaving the area I decided to continue up Black Mesa Road to survey for other campsites and see if I could find the one I'd used previously that was just past Fish Creek. It's beautiful up here, meadows and forests with a number of dispersed camp sites. I bet all the aspen put on a great autumn show. I did find my old spot. It is deluxe though only offering a sliver of sky.

Round Lizard Head

I drove back down the mountain toward Dunton where I turned north. I saw what I believe was a Dusky Grouse cross the road in front of me, but the low-light photo through the windshield is not worth posting. I crossed Dunton Meadows (better photos previously posted) then down the switchbacks to the highway to Telluride. By the time I turned onto the highway it was lunchtime. There is a popular dispersed campground just across the highway from the Lizard Head Trailhead. I drove up onto the first site and parked with a view across to the promontory where I had lunch. I continued north. I thought I'd drive through Sunshine Campground for old times sake, but they were not yet open for the season.

Mt Wilson (L); Lizard Head (R) seen from my lunch spot.

Dallas Creek Road

I bypassed Telluride and drove downhill to Placerville where I turned right onto CO-62. I wanted to check for dispersed camping at the end of the Dallas Creek Road. A friend had gone hiking up the Blue Lakes Trail and thought there might be camping nearby. I'd never been there, and didn't bring the right map (although later I discovered that I did indeed have a map of the area), but remembered not to take the West Dallas Road, but wait a couple more miles for the east fork, which is County Road 7 for those of you following at home. It was clearly marked with arrows pointing the way to the trailhead, so no danger of getting lost. The first 6 miles or so are across private land, but then a sign announcing the Uncompahgre National Fores. Gorgeous glimpses of the Mt. Sneffels Range from along the road.

View of the Mt Sneffels Range on the way up the mountain.

I pulled into the first campground/picnic area I found where there were USFS maps and notices. There was a couple picnicking next to the creek, near the map so I said hello and asked about the area. The very nice gentleman knew the area and gave me tips on where to camp. I asked if he was fishing and he said no. Somehow the conversation turned to skiing. We discovered a common interest in ski racing, though I've never skied in my life. Fun conversation and he was able to brag that they were flying to Austria next January to watch the world's most famous ski race the Hahnenkamm at Kitzbühel! He was also a climber when he was younger he had ascended Mt Sneffels. He confessed it was a bit scary as the peak was only about the size of a car.

Gorgeous view from the first picnic/camping area.

I drove up to check out the trail head before picking a camping site. Craziest thing I'd ever seen and I wish I'd taken a photo, but the dirt parking area was divided into parking slots by horizontal steel pipes, about 4" in diameter, mounted parallel on the ground. Must be a super popular trail in season (there were only about half a dozen cars this day) with a history of poor parking performance. The pipes force everyone to park in the most efficient manner so the most vehicles as possible can squeeze into the lot.

Winding road through the dandelions.

I toured a few campsites then settled into a good one; it didn't have the best view, but felt the best. It had a good view of Mt. Sneffels and a small meadow for a clear sky view. It was actually pretty warm and set my chair up in the shade to enjoy the view of the 14K peak. The meadow had two species of dandelion and a variety of other wildflowers, most low to the ground.

My campsite

It was a lovely evening and I found a place to set my tripod with clear view (hopefully) for astrophotography. Same targets as two nights ago. They way it works is one takes many exposures that are "stacked" to increase the signal-to-noise ratio. As there is limited time in any one night, especially if there are mountains and trees blocking part of the sky, that you can take observations over multiple nights and combine those for an ever better outcome.

I loved the contrast of green and whilte.

Friday, May 15th

Dallas Creek Road (continued)

Cold morning, but not too bad. I checked my telescope and it had accomplished the schedule. I took a peek at the thumbnail and it looked promising. When it warmed up I set up my chair and side table for coffee overlooking the tiny brook that wound down the meadow past my campsite. With my telephoto lens I tried to photograph the small birds when they would occasionally reveal themselves. Not a whole lot of luck, but plenty fun.

Here's where I set up my chair.

Coffee with a view.

Lots of these wildflowers under foot. Had to keep an eye out.

About 9:30 I caught movement from the corner of my eye and OMG there was a bear ambling down the valley on the other side of the brook! The light-colored  bear saw me sitting there, but wasn't at all concerned. I later learned this sub-species of black bear is called a Cinnamon Bear. This is a popular area for hikers and campers, so I was not unprecedented. I started taking pictures and noticed he seemed to be shedding his thick winter coat. I was excited as the only other bears I'd seen in the wild were running across the road in front of the truck and disappearing into the woods. I ended up taking 32 photos hoping one or two would be worthwhile. It was not until days later I realized I could have taken a video with that camera. Oh, well, maybe I'll remember next time.

I took more photos of wildflowers, bees, and birds. I managed to get some close ups of Pine Siskins feasting on dandelion seeds. I enjoyed a leisurely day. Took a walk down the road to look around and stroll along the creek. 

Chomping down on a dandelion seed.

All you can eat buffet.

Who's a pretty bird? Yes, you are.

The bees loved the Prairie Smoke blossums.

More Dandelions

Dallas Creek

It was a pleasant evening and I set up the telescope for another night's observations.

Late that night (actually early the next morning) I heard sprinkles on the roof of the camper. The telescope is moisture resistant, but not designed to sit out in the rain, to say nothing about rain = clouds = no stars. I jumped out of the bunk slipped into my shoes, pulled on my parka, got my flashlight and rushed out to rescue my scope. It was still dry and looked like it had completed its schedule, so no harm done. The aluminum roof of the camper always amplifies the sound of drops; in this case an early alarm.

Saturday, May 16th

Dallas Creek Road (continued)

The peak of Mt Sneffels using my telephoto lens.

More campers had come in on Friday, but none had settled close to me thankfully. The morning was windy and chilly and looked like it would stay so. I had originally thought I'd maybe drive up and across Owl Pass to a nice area I've camped before or farther toward Gunnison for the last couple of days. Now I reconsidered. Maybe if I instead went west to Utah I would find better weather. It had been consistently cooler than forecast, so maybe SE Utah would not be hot and I could find some clear skies.

Headed West

I packed up and headed back down the road meeting many cars and trucks headed up for hiking or camping. This is a beautiful area and I hope to come back, but it looks like it will be very busy in the high season. I turned left on CO-62 backtracking to Placerville where I went northwest on CO-145 toward Norwood. I realized I'd never driven this stretch of highway before. Going down the canyon was very twisty and scenic. Then the highway climbs up and out into agricultural land at Norwood.

I stopped for gas at Naturita and turned of onto CO-90 toward Paradox. Once before I drove the county road along the Dolores River from Uravan to Bedrock and then to Paradox where I turned off to climb up to camp at Buckeye Reservoir. So the highway from Paradox to La Sal Utah was new to me. That's a dramatic drive and I should have pulled off for photos, but only managed to take this one.

Looking back toward Paradox Valley

Cedar Mesa

I was disappointed that I wasn't leaving the clouds behind, though it was at least not as overcast. As I got closer to the junction with US-191 I decided to go south either to Cedar Mesa or Valley of the Gods depending upon the clouds and my whim. I filled the tank at the big station in Monticello where I decided upon Cedar Mesa. 

I first tried my favorite spot at North Mule Canyon as I knew I could see the Milky Way from there in May, clouds willing. That spot was already taken so I tried Picket Road. There were a number of spurs I'd seen, but never taken. I tried a couple of those and they did lead to dispersed campsites, but none that caught my fancy. I drove past the deluxe site at Pine Wash (as I call it) and there was a small travel trailer and a FWC type camper there; good for them. I drove up onto the ridge where there a several campsites. Most of those with shelter from the significant wind were taken, but I did find one that was nice. No view, but I'd already decided to sacrifice the view for a few junipers I could shelter behind.

My campsite with a windbreak of ancient juniper trees.

After setting up I walked around a bit though the weathered junipers and over to the edge of the ridge with its view across the mesa. I was glad I'd chosen a site somewhat sheltered. There were a few Piñon Jays carrying on in the area. I later determined there was only one pair, but they made enough noise for a whole flock. 

The Piñon Jay pair

A patch of Many-spined Prickly Pear cactus. Watch your step.

I wasn't optimistic about astrophotography that night. It was currently clear where I was but there were big storms to the east and west. With the wind I set up my screw jacks to brace the camper in case it got worse.

By the time it got dark I'd abandoned any idea of setting the telescope out and when I heard rain in the night knew that was a good decision.

Sunday, May 17th

Cedar Mesa (continued)

There were still plenty clouds around unfortunately, but not much wind at least. I walked around before packing up to enjoy the scenery and fresh air.

Pretty little wildflower called Goldenweed.

Plenty of heavily weathered Juniper trees up here.

Picket Road as it heads back to the highway.

My new plan was to drive down the length of Cedar Mesa, maybe stop at Muley Point, go down Moki Dugway and into Valley of the Gods. If it looked like the skies would clear I'd find a nice camping spot, otherwise I'd just enjoy the drive though and head back to New Mexico. If I could get south of the weather I'll turn off at Cabezon, between Cuba and San Ysidro, and camp out in the BLM or USFS land around there for one more night of dark skies before returning to civilization.

Valley of the Gods

Driving down the mesa I could see there would be no reason to stop at Muley Point as the view to the south was hazy and poor. I enjoyed my drive down the switchbacks then turned into Valley of the Gods. 

Stopped for a photo part way down the switchbacks.

Actually it was a great time to drive though the area. There were both high altitude clouds and low clouds and at times they provided a dramatic backdrop for the pinnacles and buttes. I stopped for a picnic at a particularly scenic location. So happy to pass through this area as it's always been one of my favorites. No, I wasn't going to camp this time. I am somewhat disappointed that the "dramatic clouds" photos don't seem to convey the amazing feelings of seeing them at the time, but I guess that's why we actually go places rather than just look at photos.

First broad vista coming in from the west.

The large grouping at the head of the road.

A closer view of the group.

Cloud layers provided a great backdrop.

OMG - wish you could have seen this in person.

More cloud radiance.

This is where I stopped to have a picnic lunch. What a view!

And Home

After passing though the valley I joined the highway east, then turned south on US-191 to Arizona, then east on US-160. I stopped at my favorite native gas station in Beclabito, NM. Wow, they'd totally modernized with giant touch screens on the gas pumps, which didn't work that well on the pump were I stopped. I continued on my usual route home.

Driving south on US-550 it was apparent the weather was not improving, but at least the winds were from behind helping me up the Continental Divide. Coming home on Sunday at least allowed me to miss the week day commute traffic and I made it home safe, sound, and happy.

Ad Astra

This blog post would not be complete without the final photos from my three nights of astrophotography (especially as I've been going on and on about it.) I combined all the images using the telescope's software for each target. Then I used the StellarStudio online processing service included with the Dwarf 3 to get an idea of what I'd captured. My intention was to then post process each stacked image using Siril, a free program created for stacking and processing astrophotography. There seems to be a steep learning curve for Siril and after about a day of unsatisfactory results I decided I could not improve upon StellarStudio at least at my current skill level.

Therefore, I'm posting the two image sets as automatically processed. I did take each into Affinity Studio 3 to crop the images and do a little tweaking of contrast, sharpness, and a touch of color saturation. I cropped each so the star field was of similar size which emphasizes the difference in the apparent galaxy sizes.

 

This is the Whirlpool Galaxy

The big one is Bode's Galaxy and above it the Cigar Galaxy.

I just realized I didn't think to get a photo of my telescope in situ. Maybe one or two of you might be interested. It doesn't look like a conventional optical telescope, more the size and shape of a kid's lunchbox. [Here are two phone photos I took in my backyard just before publishing this blog.]

Set up on my tripod. I added the white tape to make it easier to see in the dark.

This is the telescope with its two lens systems in a rotating cylinder.
It also revolves around its base so can track the stars as the earth rotates.

Thanks for visiting my blog. I hope you found something of interest. I'm not sure how often I'll get out this year, but with this successful trip I am encouraged to travel more backroads to share with you!