Silverton/Telluride Loop, CO; Part 1 - August 2019

August 12 - 16, 2019

I had to wait a couple of weeks for the weather forecast to turn favorable, so was happy to finally hit the highway on Monday morning. My intention was to return to some of my favorite SW Colorado mountains to get aerial photos and videos, especially those interesting old mine structures on Red Mountain. I will include the photos here, but the video will come later.

Part 1: Silverton Area

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Monday, August 12th.

Durango

A few miles outside of Durango, on the ridge west of the highway was evidence of the large forest fire that ravaged the area last year. I don't know how far it reached to the west, but they kept it away from the highway for the most part. Also, the fire was stopped before it reached Purgatory Ski Resort. I'm sure the wildfire was devastating for many locals, but very little issue for those of us just passing through.

Silverton

I had researched the times the Durango Silverton Railroad would arrive/depart its northern terminus. I'd also spied a likely vantage on Google Maps where I could fly and get video. I got to the spot with only a few minutes to spare, so was a bit rushed to get the Mavic 2 Pro set up, in the air, and the microSD card formatted. I felt I got some great footage. [However, once home to review the video I discovered I had not properly started recording and thus missed the oncoming train. The only video I got was after I thought I'd stopped recording - the caboose disappearing and me landing. Sigh.]

I did get this aerial photo of town:

Silverton, Colorado and the Animas River

South Mineral Creek

This beautiful valley has gotten more and more crowded through the years, but I was hopeful that early on a Monday afternoon I'd be able to find a campsite. You are permitted to camp either at the National Forest campground at the end of the gravel road, or one of the designated camping areas, or at a wide spot in the road (not good for a camper like mine, but several allow access to gorgeous tent sites away from the dusty road.) Official USFS South Mineral website.

South Mineral Creek - looking downstream toward Silverton.

I found a nice site in the trees in the Golden Horn dispersed camping area which is about 2/3rds of the way to the end of the gravel road. There were already a couple large motorhomes, a good sized trailer, and a few tent campers set up. But on my last visit the camping area was filled to the gills.

There seemed to be lots of bugs at my chosen site, so walked around the area talking to a few other campers. I met an interesting couple who had been full-timing in a 1984 VW Westphalia. They were parked in a prime spot not far from the creek. We spoke for quite a while and their site didn't seem to have many flying bugs, so I asked if they'd mind if I moved down near their site - I'd only stay overnight. They happily agreed.

My campsite

Made a rude discovery once I set up camp. The water in my camper tank had gone funky. I'd checked the function of the water pump before leaving home and didn't detect anything wrong, but the water coming out now was stinky. This is the first time in the 7 seasons I've been camping to have this problem. I normally bring along separate gallon jugs of drinking water as the well water I have at home, and use in the tank, is not the sweetest. So this wasn't an emergency. This time I'd also brought a gallon of tap water "just in case". I guess this was the "in case." Silverton is only two miles from the highway junction, so I'd head to town tomorrow and buy some bleach to add to my camper tank.

Tuesday, August 13th

South Mineral Creek (continued)

Had coffee with my neighbors and enjoyed the morning views. Other campers were out walking along the river and stopping to say hello.

A realistic view of many of the campers in the Golden Horn camping area, and the gorgeous scenery.

Clear Lake

I wanted to take the jeep trail up to Clear Lake and get some aerial views up there. I had driven up once before when returning from my Solar Eclipse trip in 2017.

The views from the road as it climbs the mountain side are breath taking.

View from the road of the valley from which South Mineral Creek originates. 

I stopped at the waterfall where I'd gotten photos last time. There was noticeably more water flowing this season.

Nice little waterfall at a switchback before the steep climb

The road near the top seemed much rougher than my one previous visit. There were a couple switchbacks that still had snow banks in the middle of August! One was particularly challenging - I had to back around to get a favorable angle and even in 4 wheel low barely made it up with my wheels slipping.

Clear Creek near the top. (Not the same waterfall as the above photo.)

This is a small pond below Clear Lake (Clear Pond? LOL) and the road to the lake. See the snow?
This was actually taken on my way out, looking toward the valley.

I saw a marmot last time, too, along Clear Creek.

The view was worth it! And the road didn't seem to stop the many Jeeps and pickups that also made it up. I got some nice video and photos.

Aerial view of Clear Lake and surrounding peaks.

On the way back down I paused to photograph just a few of the many wildflowers that were blooming on the slopes beside the road.

South Mineral Creek Redux

After descending I stopped to fly along South Mineral Creek to capture the beautiful scenes. Clouds were starting to build.

Looking toward the west up South Mineral Creek.

Silverton Redux

I drove into and through Silverton. I stopped at the town park at the far end of town to get some aerial shots, then found the market.

Aerial view of Silverton from above the park at the eastern side of town.

I bought a bottle of laundry bleach and added about a cup to my water tank. I'd let that slosh around for the rest of the trip to disinfect the tank. [The funky smell was gone by the time I camped; instead a strong chlorine smell, not surprisingly. I have flushed the tank twice now I'm home and it's ready for the next trip.]

Before leaving town I checked my watch and noticed I had time to get to the location where I'd taken video of the scenic railroad train the day before. It was starting to sprinkle a little from a dark cloud overhead by the time the trail came by, so used my phone to get video instead of putting up the drone. I did get a good recording this time, though from a terrestrial perspective. Here is a screen shot for your pleasure.

Screen capture of iPhone video of Silverton-Durango train leaving Silverton.

I'd noticed an old mine building farther down the road when I was reconnoitering the best spot for train photos. I drove back there. The "rain" had stopped, so I flew around the old mine to get some aerials.

Champion Mine near the Animas River just west & south of Silverton.

Red Mountain

I headed back north on US-550. Before the ascent to the pass stands some sort of mine building in very good condition. It's apparently in the highway right-of-way and there is a No Trespassing sign citing it is "Property of the Colorado Department of Transportation." There is what could be mine detritus behind it. I got aerials of it and the surrounding scenery. Research once home indicates this area was the site of the Chattanooga mine and town.

Mine structure near the Chattanooga mining town site.

Aerial view of Mill Creek canyon as US-550 begins its ascent up to Red Mountain Pass.

From same location as above, a view back along the highway to Silverton.

In 2013 I'd explored the old mines on Red Mountain using the route in my Funtreks Colorado 4WD Trails book. Naturally I forgot to bring the book along on this trip.

I felt I mostly remembered how to get to the Red Mountain Mining District and navigate to the mines. I was mostly right ;-) I ended up in an area below the Yankee Girl mine, but that was OK as I can fly! I then wandered the dirt roads until I got up to the mine level.

From there I drove up to the Genessee Mine for more aerials.

The road that I was sure would lead to those mines farther south along the mountain was cordoned off with orange traffic cones. I'm guessing the road was closed due to a slide or some such. Oh well, I'd just head back to the highway where I'd entered. I was confident I could then find where the south end of the road joined US-550 as I'd come out that way previously. I would drive in from that junction and complete my mine tour.

Looking west from Genessee toward the working Idarado Mine and US-550

On the way out I took the road I should have on the way in and thus discovered the Cora Bell Mine.

At the highway I turned south (one of the many backtracks I'd take during this trip.) I found the correct junction and headed back into the mining district. As I'd remembered there was a well preserved mine not far off the highway. I stopped and got aerials of the Longfellow Mine.

Longfellow Mine.

If memory served, the next mine would be mostly tailings. I didn't remember seeing much in the way of buildings last time I was there. In fact looking back at my published photos I didn't even include that site. As I drove north along this backroad I kept my eye open for possible campsites. As long as I avoided the areas immediately next to the mines, most of the remaining land was national forest where it would be legal to camp.

After driving a few miles along this increasingly deteriorating road, I gave up finding the next mine and turned around to find a campsite instead. I found a very nice site off a spur. There were actually two sites there, a shady spot among the trees that wasn't very level and a level spot for the camper a bit higher and with a better view (and fewer mosquitos). I set up camp, then retired to my chair to enjoy that view.

Aerial view of my campsite. The mountains to the west were my view from the site, but the sun was not favorable for photos.

Wednesday, August 14th

Red Mountain (continued)

On the way out I stopped again at the Longfellow Mine to capture the scene in the beautiful morning light.

Longfellow Mine still has the hoist engine on site.

I had also decided to further backtrack to South Mineral Creek to see if I could get better photos as the afternoon light the day before hadn't been ideal and the clouds had shadowed some of the mountain sides.

South Mineral Creek Redux

Of course by the time I got there about 10:30 clouds were beginning to form. Still I was able to get images of the red-sided mountain I was most interested in free from shadows.

South Mineral Creek and the mountain with the red cliffs I like so much. I'm sure it has a name, but not that I've found on any maps even though the USGS too puts the peak at over 12,500 ft.

Same view from in the sky. Note also the Gold Bar dispersed camping area.

Ouray

Once again north on US-550, but the scenery is so gorgeous I didn't mind seeing it multiple times. Every time I'd driven into Ouray I'd noticed the sign for the USFS Amphitheater Campground. This time I stopped to check it out.

It's a pretty, little campground with 35 sites mostly for small vehicles or tents. Reservations are available, but there are also some sites set aside for "first come." At noon this day, there were sites available.

After checking it out, I returned to the day-use picnic area just before the campground where I had lunch and took a few photos of the town and surrounding peaks.

Ouray and surrounding peaks as seen from the picnic area near the Amphitheater Campground.

I then drove through Ouray to Ridgway where I filled my gas tank. On the way to Telluride I took the road that leads to the Last Dollar Road. I didn't intend to drive through, but wanted more photos of the glorious fields of wildflowers with the mountain peaks in the background. Though there had been plenty of flowers blooming at higher elevations, they were all gone-by here. I returned to the highway and kept on truckin'.

Continued in Part 2

Total Solar Eclipse Trip 2017 - Part 3

Continued from Part 2 - Starts with Part 1

Colorado
Part 3 of 3

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Friday, August 25th, continued

At Dinosaur, CO, I turned off Brontosaurus Blvd (US-40) onto Stegosaurus Fwy (CO-64) which passes through some oil/gas fields near the town of Rangely, where I turned south on CO-139.

This road runs though a few miles of dry, washboard hills which I later discovered is part of the Canyon Pintado National Historic District. Apparently there are hundreds of archaeological sites, pictographs and petroglyphs, but I was not able to find very much detailed information about the area online. I had noticed cars parked at a few trailheads while driving through. The highway ascends the 8300' Douglas Pass before dropping back down and reaching I-70 near Lorna, CO. Just south of the pass I did notice a dirt road that might have dispersed camping. It would be a cool spot surrounded by dry desert if one needed a stop and it is BLM land.

I took the interstate to Grand Junction where I turned south on US-50. I passed Delta with Grand Mesa on my left and the Uncompahgre Plateau on my right - I was back in familiar territory. I'd never noticed Olathe before, but that's where much of the sweet corn we have been getting lately in NM is grown. At Montrose US-550 begins and leads to Ouray, "The Switzerland of the Rockies."

South of Montrose I could see the mountains near Owl Pass, east of Rigway

The skies were blue and the atmosphere clear showing off the dramatic mountains. I was so happy to see them again as I'd spent my camping time last year mostly in Utah and northern Arizona.

Looking toward Ouray as I drove south on US-550

Red Mountain south of Ouray, north of Silverton

South Mineral Creek

I wanted to visit one of my favorite places even though it seems to have been "discovered" the last few years (and I was coming in on a Friday.) I first camped up South Mineral Creek in 1972 in my VW Campmobile (tm) with a pop top. It, and similar Colorado treasures, had been one of the things that had encouraged me to get my current truck and pop-up camper.

The last time I tried to camp along South Mineral Creek it was so crowded that I abandoned the plan and drove over Ophir Pass instead and camped near Telluride. This time it was pretty crowded, too, though maybe not quite as bad. As I was driving up the road I saw cars pulled to the side and people looking at something with their binoculars. I turned my head to see what held their interest. There were two moose with full racks browsing in the willows on the other side of the creek. I took a few photos, and although the brush hid most of these big mammals, they are nonetheless the best photos I've yet gotten of moose.

Moose!

Just look at that rack!

Camping along the road is informal, but restricted primarily to designated areas, most of which were very full. I did find what I thought was an isolated spot away from the creek, but after I got all set up and sat down to enjoy the evening, someone's dog nearby began to bark and bark and bark and bark. I just don't understand people who either let their dogs bark incessantly or leave them alone to do so. It was getting late, and the dog had not stopped in 15 minutes, so I had to decide right away: hope the barking stopped or move camp.

I dropped the top, battened down, and left. There two sites that I'd passed up before as they were little more than spaces where the road widened - not bad for tent campers who could walk down to closer to the creek, but no so great for a truck camper. Both of those were now taken, so I returned to the first camping area closest to the highway.

Lovely evening along South Mineral Creek. Looks nice and peaceful, doesn't it?

Evening view of South Mineral Creek. See the crescent moon?

This is a fairly large area covered with round cobbles; a flood zone in spring I conjecture. There are sections screened by trees and others more like a parking lot. Only one of the "parking lots" had space. I backed between a 5th wheel trailer and a giant Class A mobilehome. At least I was near the creek. It was fairly quiet until the behemoth next door fired up their diesel generator. The noise wasn't too bad, and I was listening to a baseball game on satellite radio, but the darn thing literally made my camper vibrate. Fortunately, they were not bad neighbors and cut it off about 9:15pm. The campground was quiet after that and I could once again fall asleep to the sound of water running over rocks.

Saturday, August 26

A wider angle photo of my campsite and neighbors, but with gorgeous mountains on all sides.

Actually, that first camping area on South Mineral Creek is useful. I got there earlier in the day a couple years ago and was able to park in a moderately isolated space right next to the creek. It is also not bad if you come late in the day and want to spend another night or two in the area - simply find an acceptable site the first night, then drive up the road the next morning to find and claim a nicer site.

The road up South Mineral Creek.

More beautiful scenery

I caught a reflection in this beaver pond

This little Pine Siskin was foraging along the creek

I knew I was only 5 or 6 hours from home, so chose to spend the morning in this beautiful area. I drove up South Mineral Creek road, stopping a couple of times to walk along the creek and take photos of the striking mountain peaks. I kept an eye out, but saw no moose this morning. There was also a jeep trail I'd been daring myself to try for years. Would I be brave enough to try it this time?

Here's another animated gif for your viewing pleasure.
Let me know in the comments of you love, or hate, these gifs in my blog.

Clear Lake

I got up the nerve and started up Clear Lake Road. It is not marked as 4-wheel drive only, so I was hopefull it would not be too rough. At the first switchback there were a number of cars parked. I later learned this is a trailhead to Ice and Fuller Lakes. I stopped to chat with a gentleman and his son who were descending the road in their Jeep. I asked about the road condition. He said it was fine, I'd have no problems. I was encouraged.

View up South Mineral Creek valley from Clear Lake Road

A similar view, wider as I'm farther up the road at this point.

As the road climbed the views were spectacular, especially toward the valley in which South Mineral Creek descends. I could see the road that parallels the creek. I'd driven up that way a few years ago and man, it was so rocky - large rocks that you had to slowly lurch over. The Bandaras Mine ruins are up there and if you ford the creek you come to a wide meadow with space to disperse camp. I didn't camp up there that time as it was cold and at a very high elevation.

Outflow from Clear Lake forms this cascading waterfall.

About 3/4ths the way to the lake there is a tall waterfall with space to park at a switchback. I also got a pretty good photo of a marmot there.

This good sized marmot was following the creek down along, then below the waterfall

This Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel ran across the road right in front of me, so I took his picture.

It didn't bother him that I was so close as I drove by him, so I snapped this one.

The road gets a little rougher for that last stretch, but not that bad. I made it to Clear Lake. A beautiful spot at 12000' elevation. The lake is surrounded on three sides by mountain peaks. You could camp there if you didn't mind a parade of visitors all day and the cold temperatures of that elevation at night - still the view is terrific.

Clear Lake

A phone panorama - I had to do a little cloning near the mountain peak, so it might not be totally accurate

I walked around taking photos and a panorama with my phone. As I was leaving the lake I took photos of the wildflowers. About halfway down I stopped where there was a small site at at switchback, and made a picnic lunch. I drove back out South Mineral Road, past Silverton, and south on 550.

A field of yellow wildflowers below Clear Lake.

The road as it approaches Clear Lake

A view of the lake from the same vantage as the previous photo

A close-up of the wildflowers - Mule's Ears

A last view of the lake from the shoreline

A close-up of colorful Fireweed.

After leaving the South Mineral Creek valley, I passed Silverton.

Silverton, Colorado

This small peak is just to the left (north) of Silverton. Photo taken from the same spot as the shot above.

I checked out a few side roads for dispersed camping possibilities for a future trip, including the no-fee campground at Little Molas Lake. I relished the views and cool air as I drove down the mountain.

View from the Molas Pass overlook

The Highway Home

As I'd already had lunch, I didn't stop at Zia's Taqueria in Durango, even though they have the most delicious fish tacos.

Soon I was back in New Mexico and followed US-550 home.

It was a great trip, even with the smokey skies. I made it to three states I'd never visited before. I witnessed a total solar eclipse for the first time. Saw an old friend and met new friends. Thanks for coming along via my blog.