SE San Juan Mountains, CO & NM: Part 3

Part 3 of 3: Begins with Part 1; Part 2

Remember to click any photo for a larger version.

Thursday, August 24 (continued)

New Mexico

Rio de los Piños

The route to my favorite spot in northern New Mexico is not marked or obvious. If you come in via forest roads south of San Antonio Mountain you can easily follow the Carson National Forest map or a good atlas, such as the Benchmark series. From the north, you need to begin in Colorado. Just south of Antonito, CO I turned right off of US-285 onto County Road 12.5. This is immediately past the Cumbres & Toltec Railroad tracks. One follows the pavement until it makes a sharp bend to the left; there you continue straight on gravel.

Several years ago I was talking to someone who was familiar with this area and they asked if I knew about the Mennonite Colony around there. I did not and had not seen any indications previous years. This time as I was driving in I came across a horse drawn carriage with six young people in appropriate dress coming the other way. I slowed down and waved as they passed. The kids turned around to stare at the strange apparition they'd just seen. Lest I forget to tell you, on my way out, just across the state line in San Antonio I drove past a bearded Elder on his bicycle returning to the colony (I assume) and he gave me a wave.

It's a pleasant drive along the Rio de los Piños next to the bosque. There is a state wildlife refuge along the way which is a popular trout fishing area. They also have vault toilets at a few access points, which was appreciated as the gas station in Antonito had no facilities.

Road coming into the campground

I was hoping I would find a good camping site. I was coming in fairly early on a Thursday afternoon, so thought my prospects were good. The little meadow along the river where I'd camped a couple times before was available. It was a bit on the hot side this day, but could be a Plan B, if needed. But in fact the first official site was open and looked great, so I pulled in there. 

Campsite along the river

It had been a couple of years since I'd been back here and it looked like the forest service had cleared away quite a bit of the underbrush and low hanging trees that had made the campground just a little claustrophobic before. They'd also brought in gravel to fill the many mud puddles that plagued the road in the past. On my walk the next day I confirmed they'd similarly cleared the other sites and added gravel to the road. 

I was able to set up the camper so the solar panels got sun and I set up my comfy chair in the shade to watch the river. There was a momma Western Wood-Peewee teaching her two young how to catch flies over the river. At some point I should mention this is a New Mexico mountain river, what those from wetter climes would call a stream or a brook. But you'll figure that out from the photos, I guess.

Juvenile Western Wood-Peewees

I'd never seen Water Striders rafting before

The view from my camp chair

I didn't notice right away that my concrete picnic table had a mural. Pretty cool. I photoshopped off some graffiti, but didn't try to fix the damage due to moisture wicking up from the ground and peeling off the paint.

I had the coolest table in all the campground

It was a quiet evening after a quiet afternoon. Just before dusk a motorcyclist rode past. Looked like he was set up for back country touring/camping.

Friday, August 25

Rio de los Piños (continued)

Yellow flowers along the river

It was a beautiful morning and I enjoyed my coffee in my chair beside the river. About 9am I decided to walk up the road with my cameras. I took a few "landscape" photos, but as I've posted many, many before I concentrated on photographing the critters—not that they cooperated. I've had to really (over) process some of these so you can see what the backlit birds even look like. 

Hairy Woodpecker

Maybe the best bird photo of the trip—a House Wren

I kept hearing jay-like calls from many birds that flew high from one side of the canyon to the other, but evaded my eyeballs. Some were up beyond this rock formation.

Lots of bird activity up on the side of the canyon

Spotted Sandpiper vacationing in New Mexico

I counted the camping spots and picnic tables as I walked. There were 6 tables at nice campsites. There were a few other sites where one could camp without a table. There was another vault toilet near the 6th official site. I guess that was the end of the campground per sé.

A Field Crescent previewing the autumn colors soon to come

The motorcyclist was the only person I saw camping this morning, though I didn't walk as far as Cañon Atencio, so may have missed surveying a couple of sites. I spoke briefly with the man who was doing a little maintenance on his motorcycle. He was following a dirt roads backcountry route up from the southern border of New Mexico up into Colorado. I didn't bother him with a photo request.

Such a beautiful little canyon

Plenty of relaxing in the shade by the river that afternoon. I did manage to see and get a photo of one of those raucous birds. Turns out they were Clark's Nutcrackers. A fairly uncommon species (at least anywhere else) that I'd only seen once before. Cool.

Clark's Nutcracker finally revealed

There was some traffic driving through the campground in the afternoon and evening. Actually more than I would have expected especially as you would have to know this out of the way campground was even here. Glad I got a campsite on a Thursday. I enjoyed a pleasant evening.

About 7pm I started hearing thunder. Once I felt a few drops, I began stowing my chair, side table, etc. It was getting dark in any case. I got inside and the heavens opened up. It's easy to over estimate rainfall when in a camper with an aluminum roof, but it did pour and for quite a while, too. It was good as all the green growing things could use a good drink.

Saturday, August 26

Rio de los Piños (continued)

Morning coffee

I again enjoyed my coffee by the river. I walked around hoping for better luck with my bird photography, but it was not to be. I'd decided I'd head back to civilization today, as and the forecast I'd requested the day before using my inReach satellite communicator was for rain all day. Nonetheless, I took my time breaking camp.

On the road

I left via the northern route as it's 45 minutes to the highway rather than a couple of hours, which is a wonderful drive in good weather, but would not be that fun if in the rain. I stopped to photograph some roadside sunflowers. I think the flowers are in New Mexico and the ridge is part of Colorado. If leaving via the north route, but going south, you can take the first right after crossing the ridge. This is Road C and goes straight to the highway.

Roadside sunflowers and a portent on the horizon

I also pulled over at the state line for photos. I'd had to cross back into Colorado to get to US-285. There was a nice view of San Antonio Mountain. You can also see the clouds rapidly building over the mountains I'd just left.

San Antonio Mountain seen from the state line

A view back toward where I'd been camped and the clouds rapidly building

No drama on the drive home. A short delay for some highway resurfacing, but otherwise a smooth trip back down through Española, Santa Fe, then the freeway to the North Valley and home where it was almost muggy due recent rain.

Thanks for reading and following along.

Colorado Wildflower Tour - July 2021: Part 3

Bonus: Northern New Mexico

Continuation of Part 1 and Part 2

 Click any photo to enter an enhanced photo viewer with larger images. 

Sunday, July 18th (continued)

Just past the Combres & Toltec Scenic Railroad tracks at Antonito is the poorly marked Road 12.5. I had never driven in from this direction, only come out, so got briefly lost at the village of Ortiz, but a local youth got me pointed in the right direction. I knew, then, I was going the right way when I drove through the somewhat overgrown New Mexico State Recreation area.

Rio de Los Piños Campground

When the road turns left over a small bridge, proceed straight ahead. Hooray, my favorite site was available! It is a grassy verge along the river before you get to the "official" sites in the campground. I was first directed to this wonderful campground in the fall of my first year with my camper by a ranger at the Tres Piedras Ranger station. I camped at this very spot as the wooded sites in the campground were full. The following year I came again. This time I stayed in the campground, but though it was a lovely site, it didn't have the views of this spot. I resolved that next time I'd set up where I had the first time.

My campsite along the river with the scenic cliffs on the other bank.

I wanted this site again, not only for the view of the river and rocky cliff, but also as it would get full sun for most of the day for my solar panels. With the afternoon rains and heavy clouds the previous days my batteries were never able to fully charge with my one 100 watt panel, although they did accumulate enough charge to energize the camper. I deployed my second, portable 100 watt panel.

From another angle you can see the river and my second solar panel soaking up the photons.

It was warm, but not bad. It was late enough in the day I was able to set up my chair in the shadow of my camper and bliss out on the view, listening to the river babbling. A beautiful evening, too.

Monday, July 19th

Rio de Los Piños CG (continued)

I took a photo walk along the road that leads into the campground and beyond. Although a number of cars and trucks had gone in and/or come out last night, there were no campers at all other than myself. It was a beautiful morning. I took photos of flowers and landscapes, and tried to take photos of birds.

This is the same species as the Colorado Rubber Plant, but I have captioned the photo with the
common name as given in the New Mexico Wildflower reference.

Scarlett Beardtongue, not to be confused with...

Scarlett Gilia

Looks like a good pool to lure some trout.

Rock Spirea, also known as Mountain Spray

Here is a close-up from the plant above so you can appreciate all the tiny blossoms.

As a native son I love New Mexico green chile with a passion,
but I don't understand this branding at all.

Another lovely river scene.

I was very surprised when I first learned these large sandpipers summered on mountain streams.

Cute little critter pausing for a portrait.

There were many butterflies getting mineral supplements from around mud puddles.

After about a mile I came to a cattle guard where a small herd were (was?) congregating beyond. I decided that was far enough and returned to camp.

I'm generally not a fan of decorating nature, but this was clever.

Another scene of this gorgeous area.

I set up my homemade tarp awning to provide shade during the day as there were no trees to shade my spot. I sat in my chair and relaxed all afternoon. A few times I got up to get photos of passing butterflies.

Commercial awnings mount from the top edge of the lower camper section. My home made model
is harder to erect, but has the advantage of shading the raised side panel. Cheaper, too.

Tiger Swallowtail

The richly patterned underwings of Weidemeyer's Admiral

This is the upper side of the Admiral that one usually sees.

The small Clouded Sulphur butterfly.

As I was sitting in the shade I saw the grass and clover trembling.
A major pest in my yard, but a cute critter out here in the wilds.

A 360º panorama of this intimate canyon.

It reached a high of 81º and my fridge ran quite a bit, but with both panels in full sun, my batteries achieved full charge and the controller was able to go into Float mode. I enjoyed the evening after a wonderfully relaxing day.

Tuesday, July 20th

Rio de Los Piños CG (continued)

I didn't rush, but decided to head home and not hang around. Seemed like a good idea to get back home before the heat of the day. I drove back out the way I'd come in (but without the wrong turn) and turned right on US-285 headed south.

I stopped in Española for fuel for my truck and for me. Then Santa Fe. Then home.

A successful trip with no problems, mostly good weather, and lots of beautiful wildflowers.

If you missed the link earlier, check out the American Basin Wildflower portrait gallery here.

Thanks for joining me for this portion of my wildflower tour. I hope you enjoyed the presentation. If you have any questions, feel free to email using the link at the top of the page. Thanks.

Northern New Mexico (NM/CO) - June 2014

New Mexico and Colorado - June 2014

I'm breaking this trip into two blog posts, which is not unusual. However, instead of doing this strictly chronologically, I will divide the posts into a New Mexico post (Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday morning, Thursday afternoon and Friday), then a Colorado post (Wednesday noon to Thursday afternoon).

Remember: to see larger versions of the photos, simply click on one.

Monday, June 23, 2914

Jemez Mountains

I started out this trip by revising favorite areas in these mountains only about an hour NW of home. I intended to search out the small rivers and streams for dragonflies. For some reason all the fishing access spots along the lower Jemez River were closed.

Jemez River

 I stopped on the shoulder of NM-4 where it was close to the river. There was no dragonfly activity, but I did photograph this lizard.

Whiptail Lizard next to the Jemez River

I turned back to the NM-485 turn off that leads to FR-376. I always enjoy the scenery where the Gilman Tunnels punch through the narrow canyon of the Rio Guadalupe before it flows into the Jemez River.

Gilman Tunnels

I stopped at my favorite place to access the stream just past the tunnels. Very little activity there, though I did see a Four-spotted Skimmer dragonfly that is usually only seen on lakes and ponds. I'll post a photo of this species later in this narrative. I also was happy to find a Red Rock Skimmer, a species I'd been looking for in the Jemez for two years, though other people didn't seem to have any problems finding them.

Red Rock Skimmer

I then drove up FR-539 that runs along the Rio de las Vacas. The stream at my second favorite stop was lower in June than it had been last year in August - not a good sign for the forest. Very little wildlife activity there, either, though I photographed a pretty butterfly and a very blue damselfly.

Weidemeyer's Admiral Butterfly

Tule Bluet Damselfly

I decided to continue up 539 as I'd never driven past that one spot before. My poor reading of the map led me to believe it connected to FR-126. Physically it does, but where it passes through private land the gate is locked. I returned to 376 and continued north. I took FR-604 which branches off 539 about a mile before it hits NM-126. I'd wanted to explore up this way as the USFS map showed it led to Ghost Rocks above La Cueva. I'd explored these rocks where I was a kid. The road does indeed lead there, but to the top of that feature, so there is no way to explore the rocks from there, but I did take pictures. I should have realized the rocks were on private land, but was still disappointed to discover someone had built a cabin just below them.

Looking down at Ghost Rocks

I then took NM-126 west past the turn to Fenton Lake to the Fish Hatchery. I'd found interesting dragonflies here before, but only saw the Four-spotted Skimmer and lots of damselflies. I did also get a nice shot of a Song Sparrow.

Four-spotted Skimmer

Song Sparrow

Continuing on NM-126 I ran into a couple miles of white dust of the consistency of talcum powder. It was so deep that I shifted into FWD just for stability as it was actually slippery! This was surprising as the road was perfectly fine last August. I guess it really is dry this year (glad to report the Jemez has received a couple of good rains in early July since my trip.) I then hit a delay for road construction. I was going to stop to check for dragonflies where Rio de las Vacas crossed 126, but that clearing is just where the construction company was parking their heavy equipment. Sigh.

I continued on the the town of Cuba. I stopped there at El Bruno's for either a late lunch or early dinner and had one of the best green chile cheese burgers, evar ;-) With the large portion of fries, I couldn't finish it so took half along for later. Gotta love having a fridge in the camper. (Spoiler: it was better cold that most other burgers are, hot.)

Just northwest of Cuba I took NM-96 north, then east, to connect to north US-84 and hence to US-64.

Tres Pedras

I'd never been on 64 between 84 and 285 before. It is a lovely area, but all of it until well after you go over the pass is private. There was a spectacular rock mountain to the north which I learned is named the Brazos Cliffs. I stopped at the overlook just past the pass to try to get a photo. The light wasn't very good and I waited a while to see if the clouds would change and sun would shine on the cliffs, but it never happened.

Brazos Cliffs

Once I entered Carson National Forest I turned off to try to find dispersed camping, but the forest road on the map was closed. I tried a smaller road on the other side which was a bit rough. I found a couple of potential spots, but the mosquitoes were thick. I did get this interesting photo of a lone pronghorn shedding it's winter coat.

Pronghorn in molt

As there was no immediate prospect for bug-free dispersed camping and it was getting late, I turned into the National Forest campground at Hopewell Lake. As in most areas I've noticed that older forest camps have become day-use only and new camping areas have been built to be more ecologically sustainable and physically larger to accomodate the trend toward larger camp trailers and vehicles. Such was the case at Hopewell Lake where camping is no longer permitted at the scenic lakeside sites. The new campground had the advantage, at least, of being mosquito free.

I didn't realize until the following day, many miles away, that this was the first campsite I've utilized in my FWC camper where I forgot to take a photo of my camper in the site. Perhaps because of my late arrival. Oh, well, it was bound to happen and this was a pretty ordinary site, after all.

Tuesday, June 24

After breakfast I took the trail from my campsite down the hill to Hopewell Lake. It's a nice looking lake and I had fun chatting with the folks fishing and the family cooking breakfast lakeside. There were wildflowers to admire, as well.

Blue Flax

The north end of Hopewell Lake

I spoke with the fisherman who had the blue, inflatable pontoon boat in the photo below; he said there were enormous trout, some even 24" in length out in the middle of the lake. Of course that could be a fish story.

The south end of Hopewell Lake.

Blossoms of the shrub that was all around the lake.

After returning to camp and packing up I kept on 64 with the goal of heading north on US-285 and then west on FR-87, an interesting road I traveled last year. I had asked the camp host about FR-133 that heads north from 64 up to the same area, but her description of the roughness of the road convinced me to take the pavement around.

Taos Plateau

I love driving west on FR-87. The first 15 miles, or so, are the northwest-most part of the Taos Plateau Volcanic Field.  It is the largest volcanic field within the Rio Grande rift, but you wouldn't necessarily realize that looking at the grass and shrub covered praire. The first 5 miles are BLM, then you enter Carson NF. Incidentally, the largest section of the field, east of US-285 is now part of the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument, established in March 2013 which runs from the Colorado border to just north of US-64.

San Antonio Mountain looks like a small, round hill, but is a volcano with a height of 10,908 feet.

San Antonio Mountain from FR-87 near US-285

I stopped where 87 crosses Rio San Antonio creek to look for dragonflies. I only saw a few damselflies and some lovely wildflowers, but it is a pretty stream.

Where 87 crosses the Rio San Antonio.

Toad Flax on the side of the cut above the Rio San Antonio

Rio San Antonio

Boreal Bluet on the Rio San Antonio

Tusas Mountains

I continued up 87. It quickly climbs up into the foothills of the Tusas Mountains leaving the plateau behind. There are gorgeous views from up here.

Looking back (east) toward San Antonio Mountain and the plateau.

Paintbrush near my feet where I took the photo just above this one.

At the "top" of 87 you can go left, continuing on 87 to Lagunitas or right, following 87A, to Rio de los Piños. Last year I went right, this year I wanted to look at Lagunitas to see if the campground was worth spending the night, then head back the way I did last year. There was some pretty country on 87 and some rough road, too.

Looking over the Cruces Basin Wilderness from the junction of 87 and 87A

Olguin Mesa seen from FR-87

The campgrounds at the lakes at Lagunitas are of the old style, though it looks like they are trying to refurbish the lower campground. Seems they brought down quite a number of full grown trees, but then stopped without taking them away or doing anything else to the sites.

Lower Lagunitas Campground and one of the little lakes.

Strange and it didn't make it inviting for me to stay, so I headed back, then continued on on 87A.

Golden Banner growing alongside the road.
I simply poked my camera out my window.

Last year when I camped at Rio de los Piños, it was just me and one couple way down the road. This year there were folks in nearly every site. That doesn't make it "crowded" like most campgrounds as most sites are placed along the road at far enough intervals that you are out of eyesight and hearing of other campers. I didn't get as pretty of a site this year, but did find one with lots of shade for the very warm afternoon.

My campsite next to the river.

It is a beautiful area with the river running along rocky cliffs. I enjoyed my early evening walk and took a few photos.

River and canyon walls

Wild Rose

Bend in the river

Spotted Sandpiper

FR-284 runs along side the river

Wednesday morning

After a short morning walk, I left the campground on Los Piños Road that leads north to Colorado.

The next section of my trip in Colorado will be covered in the next post.

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Thursday, continued.

I returned to New Mexico from Colorado on a hot Interstate-25 late in the afternoon.

I tried to find the family New Mexican restaurant I'd had recommended to me in Raton, but was mistaken on where it was and couldn't remember the name. So I just gassed up and continued down the freeway. I turned east at Springer onto US-56, then south on NM-39 to Mill's Canyon Road where I turned back west. I was amused to find this windmill smack-dab in the middle of the road.

Windmill in the middle of Mill's Canyon Road

There are two campgrounds at this western unit of the Kiowa National Grasslands. The Rim Campground is, as its name implies, on the rim of Mill's Canyon and includes two covered horse corrals. As the hot wind was blowing across the rolling prairie, I decided to drive down the high-clearance vehicles only, primitive road. I was not optimistic about my chances for star photos as high clouds had been evident for hours.

There were several Kingbirds in the Rim Campground.

I had expected Mill's Canyon to be a small, unimpressive feature, like some of the canyons I'd seen on the high plains of the Texas panhandle. But no, the narrow road switchbacks down the rock canyon wall 1000 feet to the bottom where the Canadian River flows. Along the river are ruins of a ranch with orchard, and hotel and stage stop.

The old orchard along the Canadian River

The campground was fairly new, though just basic with vault toilet and level gravel parking for campers, metal fire pits, and tables. There is evidence of much dispersed camping in the area, but the mosquitoes chased me back to the no-fee, developed campground. Plus, if the clouds did clear, the wide gravel area would be a good, safe place to set up my tripod and camera.

My campsite

The clouds didn't clear entirely that night, but there were areas where I could see the stars. I think there was still a lot of high altitude moisture as the stars weren't very bright even though there was no moon. I worked around them best I could. I was also surprised there there were one or two lightning bugs in the canyon.

The Milky Way shining down into Mill's Canyon

Friday

Before I left Mill's Canyon I stopped to look over the ruins of the old Mill's ranch. Interesting, but not particularly photogenic. As I was climbing the road up out of the canyon I spotted a bear crossing the road ahead; that was cool.

Looking across the grasslands on my way back to the highway.

Once I was back at the highway, I drove south to Roy, then west on NM-120 toward Wagon Mound and the freeway. About seven miles west of Roy the highway descends into the Canadian River Canyon before climbing right back up the other side.

I was heading home, but decided to head over to Mora first as the thought of the brisket enchiladas made New Mexico style with blue corn tortillas at Rene's Diner was too enticing to pass up. And I could check the Mora River for dragonflies.

The enchiladas were every bit as good as I'd remembered from last year. There weren't very many dragonflies, but I did get photos of one of my favorites, a Pale Snaketail.

Pale Snaketail in the Mora River

Thus, I headed down NM-518 to Las Vegas where I picked up I-25 that took me back to the Albuquerque area.

My next post will cover those parts of Colorado I skipped above. Thanks for reading.