Central NM Spring Shakedown - April 2018

April 24 - 27, 2018

I try to do one shorter trip that is not too far from home to start the camping season. I usually either  head to the south or lower elevations as it's early in the season. Short and nearby in case something goes wrong or just isn't right. It's also a good opportunity to try packing techniques or accessories that I haven't used previously. This year I decided to go south to the Magdalena Mountains and across the middle of the Gila National Forest.

Also on this trip I'd not go too far off the beaten path as my inReach Satellite Communicator had died while I was setting it up for the season. I'd drive backroads, but only through roads, just in case. I also called the appropriate Ranger District Offices to verify road conditions and check for area closures. [Update: Garmin sent a refurbished exchange unit which arrived one week after support call & activated and tested in one additional day, in case you were interested.]

Click on any photo to see a larger version. 
You can use your arrow keys to browse all the photos.

Tuesday, April 24th

I planed to stay at the USFS campground at Water Canyon between Socorro and Magdalena, NM. I had never been there, but had heard of it as it's considered a birding hotspot. I figured it would only take me about two hours to drive there, so didn't even start out until 3pm. I headed down I-25, then took US-60 west at Socorro, after I topped off my gas tank.

Water Canyon, Cibola National Forest

The turn off to the canyon is at a historical marker sign about 15 miles west of Socorro, so you can watch for that sign to find the paved road to the campground. Actually the pavement ends just before you bear right up to the CG. It's a very nice, small campground with a dozen sites and two vault toilets at 6800 feet. It is currently no-fee. There is a group campsite a bit farther up the side canyon requiring reservations. There are attractive views of the bluffs on the other side of Water Canyon.

View to the east across Water Canyon from near my campsite.

I took a few photos of the area and chatted with some folks camped near me in a small trailer with a dog named Booboo. They were crossing the country. It was a lovely evening and I sat out to watch darkness fall.

My Campsite.

Wednesday, April 25

Water Canyon (continued)

Checkerspot butterfly

Looking up the little canyon just beyond the group campsite.

After breakfast I walked the road up the side canyon past the group campsite. The road essentially ends at the group site and there is no turn-around. I continued a short ways beyond there, admiring the rock formation along the stream bed. About 50 yards up there was a little seepage providing water for birds and a couple Mule Deer. There was a small number of birds foraging, and though I enjoyed the pursuit, I only got one photo worth posting.

The cactus was perched high above on the canyon rim.

Mule deer drinking from the seep on the canyon bottom.

Flycatcher

On returning to camp I packed up and hit the road. I drove a short ways farther up Water Canyon past the developed picnic area with its large grassy meadow. I only went about a mile and did see a few dispersed campsites, though none better than those in the campground. The road continues up 7.5 miles to near the top of the mountain where New Mexico Tech maintains an astronomical observatory. As the facility is not open to the public and the road was rough I didn't check it out, but returned to the highway and proceeded toward Magdalena.

New Mexico Historical Marker - geological history in this instance.

Looking back toward Water Canyon from beside the Historical Marker.

Magdalena and the VLA

12 miles west of Magdalena there are two distinctive hills north of the highway, Tres Montosas East and West (I don't know where the third Montosa is.) As you get to them look for a gravel road taking off south from US-60. This is the north end of Bear Trap Canyon Road, FR-549, or as Google calls it, Old NM 52. What I didn't realize until I drove it, is that it skirts the eastern end of the Plains of San Augustin - home of the NRAO Very Large Array. See also my 2009 VLA photo gallery with only 7 images taken with a point & shoot camera.

The road crossed the train tracks they use to move individual radio dishes and this day there was one near the road, as well as one or two even farther out. I stopped for a few photos. While next to one I heard a whirring sound. Lo and behold, they were moving the dishes to point to a different point in the sky. So cool to see them all move, and in concert.

Looking toward the central hub and observatory control building along the rails used to move the dishes.

A closer view of one radio telescope dish after it changed orientation. You can see others in the distance.

I continued south, startling a lone pronghorn along the way. The road climbs up into the Magdalena Mountains and this side is very dry. Evidence of a long past wildfire can be seen with no regrowth due to the arid condition.

Looking back as I climb into the mountains. Look carefully and you can just make out the VLA.

Bear Trap Canyon

As soon as the road crests the pass, the forest becomes very verdant. There are four steep, tight switchbacks and then the entrance to the Bear Trap Campground. This USFS no-fee site is small with a single vault toilet and a dispersed camping vibe due to there being no developed sites. It sits at about 8600 feet. I stopped for a pleasant picnic lunch.

Picnic lunch at Bear Trap Campground.

A few miles farther down the road is the tiny Hughes Mill Campground. No sign of a mill that I could see. Just an open area, but apparently there are popular hiking trails there. Once I turned onto Bear Trap Canyon Road I did not see another vehicle on the road for its entire length.

The forest road continues to the southwest until it steeply climbs out of the green canyon, across the drier pinon/juniper woods, then out of the national forest to a junction with NM-52. This state highway is a gravel road through cattle country with a ranch road every several miles.

NM State Highway 52.

For my fellow geeks, engineers, and technophiles: cool transmission tower design.

Gila National Forest

After about 20 miles pavement appears. This black-top is coming from I-25 near T or C and continuing west as NM-59 toward Beaverhead USFS Work Center. I turned that direction. The highway winds though an area of Ponderosa pine forest with some residential in-holdings.

Just before Beaverhead NM-59 makes a left turn, then soon a right turn climbing up to a plateau and passing a landing strip - follow the signage toward Snow Lake. From here to the lake the route is named Loco Mountain Road. The gravel road is fairly smooth and after a few miles you come to the turn off for the Wolf Hollow Trailhead Campground. This side road looked like it had been recently gravelled and would now be all-weather. This is one of the main trails for entering/leaving the Gila Wilderness from the north. There were a number of vehicles and a few tents set up in the campground. There are several corrals for pack animals, none occupied.

Wolf Hollow Campground

North-easterly view from NM-52. Gila Wilderness is at my back.

I continued westerly at good speed on NM-59 until that route, the state maintenance and gravel ends at the junction with FR-142 where I turned left. The road becomes much narrower and bumpier alternating between open pinon/juniper woods and Ponderosa forest. The road became very rocky and I finally gave up and lowered the air in my tires. Slow going along this stretch.

About 5 miles from Snow Lake the road becomes somewhat less rocky and there is another trailhead campground - Aeroplane Mesa Trail that leads to the Gila River in the wilderness.

Aeroplane Mesa Campground.

It was a relief to come out above Snow Lake and onto a gravel surface again. I didn't visit the lake or campground there. You can see my post, referenced below, if you are interested. I continued on 142 to the junction of FR-28 where I turned left toward Willow Creek. The plateau west of Snow Lake was consumed by wildfire several years ago, but once you drive down into the canyon containing Willow Creek you escape the burn area.

Willow Creek

There are two small no-fee Forest Service campgrounds along the creek and one open area where those who take horses into the wilderness park and camp. (Note: older maps also show the Gilita Campground, but this was destroyed by wildfire and permanently closed.) You access the Willow Creek CG by fording the creek; Ben Lilly Campground*, where I camped a few years ago, is a bit farther down the road. I ended up in the exact campsite, next to the creek, as I'd landed on that previous trip.  See also my earlier post.

My campsite.

It is a lovely spot and after setting up I sat in my chair listening to the creek and enjoying the scenery. There was one other camper in the 5 site campground; across from me was a car with a small Scamp trailer where a single person was camping.

Willow Creek next to my campsite.

Thursday, April 26th

Willow Creek (continued)

Looking at my campsite from near the road.

The road upstream from the campground. See the creek in the shade at bottom left?

After breakfast I took my long lens and walked up the road looking for birds and/or other wildlife and simply enjoying the beautiful morning. The road is closed at private land about a mile up from the campground. Coming back after turning around at the gate, there were lots of warblers high in the firs across the creek. I was assuming they were all Yellow-rumped Warblers, a very common species in NM, but for some reason I raised my binoculars to look at one across the way and was astonished to see bright red! OMG, could this be a Red-faced Warbler? Yes, it was and I found two others later on the walk. I took lots of photos even though I knew the birds were too far away for good images (indeed, the photos were blurry and noisy, but have included one simply because it such a cool bird). Over the years I've made four trips to SE Arizona to bird watch and one of my target species I'd never found was here along Willow Creek. Made my day.

Photo of Red-faced Warbler high in a tree far across the creek in the shade.

I also found a dragonfly along the creek next to the road. I was surprised as it is early in the season for them to be out. I spotted a second of the same species about a hundred feet farther down the road, but no others of any species.

Dragonfly along the creek. Very early in the season for Odonata.

I returned to camp to make lunch. Somewhere along the line I decided to stay here another night as it was such a lovely, restful spot. After lunch while taking an obligatory photo of my campsite I met my neighbor. She was a bow-hunter from Sandia Park, NM here for turkey season and was expecting a couple of friends to join her the next day. We had a pleasant conversation. I said I hadn't seen any turkeys on this trip. She said she was up early and one walked right through camp.

I sat out near the creek through the afternoon in my chair, alternately reading the new Anne Hillerman Navajo Tribal Police mystery novel, Cave of Bones, and watching the birds and clouds. Speaking of which, high clouds were moving into the area - not enough to diminish the day, but my neighbor said rain could be moving in from the west by Friday night. I had been flirting with the idea of driving into the Apache National Forest in Arizona, down along the Blue River, but I decided to head home on Friday instead.

My campsite as seen from across Willow Creek.

As evening approached I used some stepping stones to cross the creek. The birds were too wary to allow me near enough for photos. I saw lots of elk scat. Later as it was starting to get dark I heard turkey calls up the hill north of camp.

Friday, April 27th

Willow Creek (continued)

I woke to the sounds of more turkeys calling. I noticed my neighbor's car was gone. Perhaps she drove up to the other side of the hill to hunt. I packed up, but she had not returned by the time I left.

On the way out I forded the creek to check out the Willow Creek Campground. Only one of the four(?) sites was not taken - a popular place. The website says "tent only", but no problem for pick-up campers. It does have the advantage that the sites are farther apart than at Ben Lilly, so you have a bit more privacy. I didn't take any photos.

Tularosa Mountains

The smooth gravel surface of FR-28 through the Ponderosa forest.

I drove north on FR-28 which was a smooth gravel surface. At the junction with FR-141, which leads eventually to Reserve, NM, I turned right to stay on 28. The remainder of this route was much narrower, but still a smooth gravel surface. A few miles along I saw a hiker ahead. I knew the Continental Divide Trail was somewhere around and I'd seen hikers on previous trips. I slowed to reduce the dust kicked up by my truck.

As I got closer I saw that it was a grey-haired lady sticking her thumb out to me. I stopped and asked how she was doing. She said her back was giving out and was there a chance I could give her a ride to Reserve. I said I was not going that direction. I pulled out my map and said I was headed to Apache Creek then would turn the opposite direction of Reserve. She said she'd be glad to go to Apache Creek as there was a store there where she could call for a ride to the hotel in Reserve. I explained I'd have to move some of my stuff to make room for her and pulled over to the side of the road. I keep my camera bags in the passenger foot well and a caddy on the passenger seat. I moved my stuff and put her heavy backpack in the camper.

She explained she's a Section Hiker, doing one section of a trail at at time, rather than a Thru Hiker, hiking the entire trail in one go. She said she'd hiked up the length of the Gila River (which I didn't question at the time, but don't believe is actually part of the CDT.) We had a pleasant conversation and I learned a bit more about hiking the major American trails. She's a retired civil engineer living in Reno and when we exchanged names, said she's known in hiking circles as Stone Dancer - for the manner she crosses streams. She was interested in my camper and was excited to hear about Overland Expo as she thought she might have to give up backpacking if her back didn't get better, but wouldn't give up going into the outdoors.

Collins Park

We drove out of the pine forest onto the grasslands of Collins Park. At a junction the route to Apache Springs changed from 28 to FR-94. As we entered a canyon on the north side of the park a small group of javelinas crossed the road.

One of four javelina that crossed the road in front of us.

We drove over the saddle and down to Apache Creek. I stopped near the store on NM-12 to let her out and we exchanged cards as I got her pack out of the camper. We wished each other a safe journey and I turned around to go the very short way back to the Apache Creek Campground where I made a sandwich and put air into my tires in preparation for pavement.

From Apache Creek I drove north on NM-32 into Apache National Forest. Several small convoys of USFS Wildfire Crews passed headed south. I guessed the Bluewater and Diener Canyon fires in western NM must have been controlled enough to redeploy these assets. At Quemado, I jogged east on US-60 just far enough to pass through the village before turning north on NM-36. That highway would lead to NM-117 which passes through El Malpais National Monument to I-40.

El Malpais

In an interesting coincidence of life meeting art, a significant portion of Anne Hillerman's new novel took place at The Narrows in El Malpais. This is place where the hundreds of square miles of lava flow stopped just short of a line of 500' tall sandstone bluffs. The highway passes through there now, but so did the trails of the native peoples and pioneers. I'd driven though there before and once in 2008 hiked some of the Narrows Trail. This area is along the highway and I had time this afternoon to stop for a short time. I pulled into The Narrows picnic area and parked near the trailhead.

Trailhead. Photo a bit out of focus.

For more info: NPS National Monument website - BLM National Conservation Area website

I strapped on my hiking boots, pulled on a fishing shirt, and took my landscape camera, a full Camelback, a energy bar, my phone, walking stick, and just in case - waterproof matches and a space blanket. I took lots of photos even though it was somewhat overcast resulting in flat, low-contrast light. Nonetheless, it was beautiful and the vistas magnificent!

Natural staircase at the trailhead.

A short distance from the trailhead you can see the highway entering The Narrows from the south.

See also my earlier post where I passed through this way. Post includes the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook, La Ventana Arch, and the Lava Falls Trail.

Lava field, bluff top, tree leaning left.

Lava field, bluff edge, crooked tree.

Lava field, bluff edge, straight tree.

Looking down at The Narrows.

Lava field. Note the path of a collapsed lava tube.

Trail side cactus.

After my short hike I headed north on 117. I checked out BLM's Joe Skeen Campground (see BLM NCA link above) which is about 12 miles south of I-40. This no-fee campground has 10 sites and vault toilets. It's first-come and at 4pm on an April Friday all sites were taken. Even with the ramadas over the tables, I suspect this place broils in summer. For cooler, less frequented overnight camping near Grants & I-40, I recommend Lobo Canyon or Coal Mine Campgrounds; see my earlier post.

And Home

Once on the freeway I headed east toward home. I stopped in Laguna for one of their famous Laguna Burgers at 66 Pit Stop. Yum! (I do not recommend their Albuquerque location; I've not tried the Rio Puerco location.)

I got stuck in traffic on Coors Blvd in west Albuquerque due to tow trucks clearing two separate collisions, but I made it home safely. Thanks for viewing my first post of 2018.

---

*
Warning - Opinion: A friend, when I wrote of my plans for the trip, mentioned there was a Ben Lilly Memorial outside Silver City, but he hadn't checked it out. I Googled the name to find out about this person who had at least two places named for him in southern NM. I was unhappy to find a number of sources where he was labeled a "great" or the "greatest" hunter simply for the extreme numbers of cougars and bears, so called "malefic creatures", he exterminated in the southwest. Wikipedia uses the term "notorious" which I think is more appropriate and their bio seems to be more balanced than most.

Spring Shakedown 2015 - Part 2

Important Note: I am organizing this trip report into separate sections to both make it easier to read and to organize the geographical areas for your future trip planning.

• Part I comprises part of Wednesday and part of Saturday covering El Malpais National Monument. This breaks the timeline, but puts all of El Malpais in one section.
• This section, Part II covers the rest of Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday morning in the Apache and Gila National Forests.
• Part III covers El Morro National Monument from Saturday evening through Sunday afternoon.
• Part IV is a photo gallery of the inscriptions of El Morro National Monument. I separated this out as they will be of only limited historical interest for most folks.

---

II. Apache and Gila National Forests

Wednesday, May 20th (continued)

Quemado Ranger District, Gila National Forest

Leaving El Malpais via highway 117, I took SR-36 to Quemado [kee-MOD-oh] where I stopped at the Apache NF District Ranger Station for advice. The nice lady there explained my options and gave me a report of good road conditions for Apache National Forest. 

I took SR-32 south from Quemado, then turned east on SR-103 which changed from pavement to gravel just before Quemado Lake. The lake was extremely low as this area of the state has been exceptionally dry. There were still a number of folks fishing and campgrounds were nice enough. The one closest to the lake, Juniper, had lots of RVs all in one small area as it offers full hookups. There were several more campgrounds and there were very few people in those. The El Caso campground is farther from the lake and has several small units in a riparian area and there is no fee. However, I drove on as it was only 4pm and I wasn't ready to stop. Though I wish I'd taken a photo or two of this area.

The forest road 13 was in great condition and I thought I'd check out the Mangas Look Out. By the time I got there it was 5:30. The ranger said the tower cabin was closed until 8am, but I could climb the stairs if I wanted. I did climb the very steep stairs. The view was wide, as you might imagine, but the atmosphere was hazy.

Mangas Mountain Lookout tower

Northerly view from upper step of the tower.

Looking southwest from the tower. Note the light colored clearing in the center; I'll refer to it later.

Curiously, I saw two groups of very weathered backpackers walking in this area (more worn looking than your typical Rocky Mountain backpackers with which I'm more familiar). They were hiking along the road intent on going somewhere, but I couldn't figure out where as there didn't seem to be any specific attractions in the direction they were going. Later I realized I'd been driving back and forth along the continental divide. Looking at my maps I discovered the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail runs through the area I was exploring. I bet that explains the hikers.

I drove back down the 4 miles to the valley and found a nice level spot in the Valle Tio Vinces Campground, that the lady at the ranger station recommended. It is "partially developed," i.e., there is a vault toilet. I settled in all by my lonesome, had dinner, then about dusk a pickup truck came in, parked across the road and unloaded wood, I thought, and built a small fire. Turns out the other campers were three brothers from Magdalena, NM who were up in the mountains hunting for elk antlers. We conversed for a few minutes and I wished them good night and good luck in their gathering. I wasn't until the next day that I suddenly wondered what they were going to do with the antlers - I guess I was a but slow on the uptake. (The next day I saw a general store in Reserve with a big banner: We Buy Antlers. So maybe that is the simple answer.)

I went to bed and realized it was very, very quiet. The brothers made no noise and this area must not be under any flight path. Before I drifted off, though, a distant pack of coyotes sang me a lullaby.

Thursday, May 21st

It was 26º when I awoke in the morning, but the furnace kept me warm.

After breakfast I took a nice walk up the hill to the south of the campground. It was very pleasant to stretch my legs and attempt to photograph some birds.

View of my campsite as I walk up the hill.

Yellow Groundsel, I'm not positive I identified the species correctly.

Mistletoe can weaken trees, but it is an eye-catching red and there was not much of it around, fortunately.

The ground was vey rocky at the top.

There were a number of flycatchers working the woods. This drab bird is a common species.

This chickadee appeared to be molting. It was bug hunting in scrub oak.

Another view of the Ponderosa Pines around Valle Tio Vinces.

I broke camp and drove down forest road 214 to HWY 12, turning right toward Reserve, NM where there was a district ranger station for Gila [HEE-lah] National Forest.

The road south, leading to SR-12, cuts through this large clearing that was visible from the Mangas L.O., remember?

Reserve Ranger District, Gila National Forest

On the way to Reserve I checked out Apache Springs Campground, in the woods off the highway. It was nice, but there is no access to the creek. I checked the creek for dragonflies at the bridge, even though it was cool and cloudy. I saw a blue darner, but that was all. I also spotted a hawk land at the tippy-top of an evergreen tree.

Red-tail lighted briefly atop this tree; can you ID the species from its cones?

I found the Reserve District Ranger Station just west of town on SR-12. There I solicited advice on where to explore from here and for a recommendation for where to have lunch. Yolanda gave an enthusiastic review of Carmen's back at the highway junction and added that as it was Thursday, the special would be tacos for a dollar each. Turns out they also had rolled, cheese enchiladas for $1.50 each. I ordered two tacos and two enchiladas. She also recommended the red chile sauce, so I made that selection for the enchiladas. Wow. Delicious! The tacos didn't need any extra salsa, as the ground beef was specially seasoned and the lettuce & tomato had a light dressing, too. If you're ever in the neighborhood, stop there for breakfast, lunch or dinner. And yes, the red chile was outstanding.

I filled my tank which was half empty by this time at $3.36 per gallon, quite a bit higher than the $2.49 at Costco near my house. But I did get a free weather report... cloudy, cool, sprinkles and maybe a bit of rain. Not the clear & sunny report I read before starting my trip. Oh, well.

As the "highway" climbed up from Reserve, there was a pretty view of distant mountains to the west.
I believe this is the Blue Range, that I'll drive through later in the trip.

Sure enough as I drove south from Reserve on SR-435, I ran into a few sprinkles, then a bit of rain. I headed toward Snow Lake, which I'd been told was a lovely area. The road is "paved" for the first several miles, then gravel actually in better condition. The forest along the way was a patchwork of slight wildfire damage and no damage.

FR-28 cut through this large grassland, home of the T-Bar Ranch.

Once on top of the mesa, following 28 south, the devastation was much more severe. I turned off on 142 toward Snow Lake amid further fire damage. A few miles in I saw what I thought was a coyote run across the road, then a second one ran across right in front of my truck. My casual impression was that it was a sturdy looking coyote, holding a very bushy tail strait out behind as it loped across the road and up the hillside, but didn't think any more about it at that time.

Snow Lake

Snow Lake is nice, and not as low as Quemado Lake. It is in a grassy valley surrounded by unburned forest. There is a campground situated above the lake and there is a loop of sites, suitable for tents or campers, with a nice view of the lake, but without trees it would be vulnerable to winds.

I decided instead to backtrack a bit, then continue south on 28 to the Ben Lilly Campground along Willow Creek. Yolanda at the ranger station said it was a small campground with only 5 sites, but her very favorite in the area.

Ben Lilly and Willow Creek

The campground was lovely and I had my pick of sites next to Willow Creek. As I sit here in my camper, typing this report on my iPad, I'm the only one in this tiny campground. (Note: if you use an iPad for writing, I can recommend the new Logitech Ultrathin Magnetic clip-on keyboard cover. However, I had problems on this trip as the batteries were low. It takes 2 common coin batteries.)  I found my spot about 3pm, took a short walk up the creek and on my way back it started raining lightly. I sat in the cab until it let up, then raised the camper roof. It is now 4:30 and it has been sprinkling or raining on and off. I can hear the creek and a few birds singing.

My campsite. Willow Creek is between my camper and those fir trees.

The sun came out for a while about 5pm allowing me to walk around a bit before the sky darkened again. I saw a notice posted that endangered Mexican Wolves have been released this area of the Gila. Hmm, that got me thinking about those two unusual coyotes I saw earlier in the day. For more information on the release of these wolves, click here.

Here is a view of Willow Creek where it ran past my campsite.

Friday, May 22nd

It was 26º again this morning. After breakfast it had warmed up enough for me to take a walk farther up the road. The map showed ended at private property about a little ways along. As I was leaving the campground I wished good morning to my neighbors, a couple who had pulled into the campground just as it was getting dark and set up a small tent. This friendly couple, Mark and Maria, had planned to backpack, but didn't realize their route was in a burned out area, so they stopped here instead. They were wondering where to go to continue their trip. I said if they were going to the southern part of the Gila that I strongly recommended the Gila Cliff Dwelling National Monument. They hadn't been there before and were happy for the recommendation.

I had a very nice walk up the road and back.

I find it interesting this species of cactus thrives both in the hot lava fields and cool mountains.

This junco perched cooperatively for my camera.

It was more of a challenge capturing an image of this warbler.

On my return the Forest Ranger pulled in to the campground for a routine check. I was able to get an update on road conditions from Ranger Tory and ask her if maybe the coyotes I saw had actually been Mexican Wolves that have been released into the area. From my description, she believed I had indeed seen wolves. Cool!

I thought I'd have to backtrack to Reserve, as a sign south of town stated that State Highway 159 was closed between Willow Creek and Mogollon. Tory, however, said it was indeed open and in fact she'd driven in on it this very morning. She said it was a bit rocky in places, but no 4WD was needed. Very good. She also encouraged me to drive into Arizona and explore the national forest there, and not be discouraged by the big wildfire of 2011.

Glenwood Ranger District, Gila National Forest

I broke camp and got on "highway" 159, aka Bursum Road. Once I climbed up out of the canyon, the wildfire damage from the Whitewater-Baldy Fire Complex was extensive all along the ridge.

Looking across the fire damage toward the north.

From the same spot as the previous photo, but looking south up the mountain.

More information on the Whitewater-Baldy Fire Complex

Once I crossed the divide and descended into the canyon, it was much less severe. But all along the canyon bottom was evidence of flooding in the form of cobble size rocks covering everything along the bottom. I should have taken a photo, but for some reason didn't.

I spotted this butterfly next to Silver Creek along the canyon bottom.

The road continued into the old mining town Mogollon [muggy-own] which was probably a quaint little village before the flood. They've had time to make some repairs. And this Memorial Day weekend was to be the official re-opening of the historical mining town (though I was a day early, so even the one cafe was still closed.)

Northwest of Mogollon was this old mine - I believe it is the historic Fanny Hill mine.

Alpine Ranger District, Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

SR-159 led to US-180 which I took north into Apache NF, crossed some lovely scenery into Arizona, and drove into the town of Alpine. I stopped at the district ranger station there which is officially the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest. Andrea helped me with my enquires and she was very knowledgeable, interesting and informative. She confirmed that the Wallow fire of 2011, though very damaging to some areas, only lightly touched others that were already recovering, and that there were many other areas that escaped the fire all together.

She helped me put together an itinerary that would take me through some scenic areas and provided advice on campground and dispersed camping. She suggested I drive along the East Fork of the Black River where there were a series of small campgrounds. From there I should cut back east, cross US-191 and continue on forest roads through an area where Big Horn Sheep were regularly seen (though she didn't know what time of day they usually appeared.) From there return north to Alpine, then up another forest road where there had been lots of elk sightings.

I took her suggestions heading west on highway 249 just north of Alpine, then south on forest road 276 and into the valley of the East Fork of the Black River. This was indeed a nice area along the small river. There were many open campsites, though many were already taken for the holiday weekend, too. The problem from my perspective was the gusty winds were kicking up dust from the road and carrying it into the campsites. The best site I found felt like it was in the middle of a wind tunnel, so instead of camping, I turned left on FR-24 to look for a dispersed campsite out of the wind.

This TV was sitting on the shoulder of the road next to the East Fork of the Black river.
When I drove up it flew onto this limb to pose for its photograph.

A short distance along 24 I turned north on the unimproved road 405, where there were a few RVs dry-camped in the meadows. I continued on and took a left fork onto 405C that was too rough and narrow for big trailers and found a pretty little glen shielded from the wind by a nice hill and some trees.

My secluded and sheltered campsite.

Saturday, May 23rd

It was a chilly 25º this morning and instead of my usual after breakfast hike, I drove back to 24 headed south through the forest to turn onto eastbound road 26. This was a lovely area of Ponderosa pines, rolling hills and meadows either untouched by the fire or only lightly touched, though the ridges and hill-tops enclosing the broad valley had been throughly scorched.

Close-up of a Wild Iris along a side road.

Looking up from the iris bed, one can see the fire came through here only
enough to blacken the tree bark and not hot enough to kill the grasses.

There were numerous side roads one could take for dispersed campsite, though there were no running creeks or views to enhance one's site. The area north of the last half of the road before you get to the US highway is closed for part of the year to allow the elk a quiet area to raise their calves.

The Blue Range

I crossed US-191 and continued east, now on 567, named Red Hill Road. Within a couple of miles the terrain changed dramatically. Where I had been driving through verdant, forested hills, now the land dropped away into a large, rugged and much dryer canyon land. Where before one could only see a short ways into a meadow or wood, here the vista was across many miles of deep, ridged valleys. There were the red hills off to the right, after which the road is named, and a very dramatic, red sandstone formation next to the road on the left.

The vista a few miles east of US-191.

The Blue Range in the distance.

I was intrigued by the red sandstone formations, so took many photos.

An early glimpse of the formations.

Another photo as I drive closer.

This Wooly Paintbrush was perched on the high side of the road cut.

A close view of the formations.

Looking back at the red sandstone formations.

The road continues to wind its way down through this scenic area that reminded me of the southern Arizona mountains such as the Chiricahua. South and west of the road is the Blue Range Primitive Area.  Even though without official "wilderness" designation, motorized transport is still prohibited except along a narrow corridor. The Blue Range is the last primitive area in the national forest system.

As the road reached the bottom there was the Blue River and a green, riparian area very similar to that found in the Chiricahua Mountains. There is a tiny campground there called Blue Crossing - a gem hidden in a thick grove of narrow-leaf cottonwoods. I will want to camp there on a return trip. I did stop for about an hour to walk about, try to take photos of the many birds I could hear in the trees and brush, look for dragonflies (none) and have lunch.

The first resident of the campground that I saw, in a dry wash.

Though Flickers generally feed on the ground, this one was in a tree (to get away from me, I guess.)

This is one of the heavily shaded campsites where I stopped for lunch. No one else was around.
The creek is about 20 yards off to the left.

On my way out of the campground I paused to photograph this quail.

From the crossing I proceeded north on County Road 67004 which follows the Blue River for about the first half of its length. This is a dry area, lightly forested, with interesting sandstone formations. There is also some private land along the road.

One of many formations along the lower portion of the road.

This long-eared fellow scampered across the road and paused in this tree to pose for me.

I returned to Alpine via US-180 and thought I'd try the road where Andrea said there'd been a large herd of elk. She'd suggested going to Nutrioso, then south on CR-2269; I decided to simply start at the south end of that road where it is forest road 81. As I started up the road I realized why she'd suggested starting from the north - the first several miles were though an area that had been badly devastated by the Wallow fire. The road was OK, though narrow and there were run-off bars placed across the road frequently.

I was actually glad I came this way as it was instructive to see the damage and note the aspen returning. Andrea had said the Forest Service planted grass seed by air after the fire and the grasses were healthy. Andrea also said they'd planted wheat and barley in this area as high energy, quick growing fodder for the elk. They don't expect the grains to survive over the years, but to fill the gap until the native grasses are restored. I didn't see any elk at all, however.

Fire damage northwest of Alpine.

Looking south, back up the road from where I took the previous photo.

I continued up US-180/191 to Springerville where I filled my gas tank and my stomach. I then drove east on US-60 toward Quemado. I hadn't initially intended to backtrack my route home, but by wandering around the way I ended up doing, that was the only logical route unless I wanted to add many miles through less interesting territory.

US-60 a few miles after crossing back into New Mexico. Rain on the horizon, but I never ran into it.

Note: the timeline of the trip actually jumps back to Part I at this point in the narrative. 

The next published post, however, will cover the time after that at El Morro National Monument.