Alta Lakes, Colorado - September 2022

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September 14 - 20, 2022

After my wonderful Utah expedition in April of this year I was eager for my next trip. Life, however, intervened. It was just one thing after another and I'll spare you the gritty details. My schedule was clear to hit the road after Labor Day and I began preparations for camping in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado. Then I had to delay my departure by several days to let rain storms clear out. OK, now let's go...

Wednesday, September 14th

Angel Peak Scenic Area

My goal for this trip was Alta Lakes, south of Telluride, Colorado. The forecast indicated that one more day was needed for the rain to fully clear out, so I took off late in the afternoon with Angel Peak in northern New Mexico as my destination for the night. It's only about a 2-1/2 hour drive NW on US-550. There were thunderstorms nearby my route and I got to see a double rainbow as I was coming into Cuba. I arrived at Angel Peak near dark and set up at my favorite spot. This is my fourth and shortest stay. Click "Angel Peak Scenic Area" in the location column to the right if you want more story and many more photos.

Thursday, September 15th

I didn't waste any time in the morning. I snapped my obligatory campsite photo and hit the road. 

Angel Peak campsite

I took my usual shortcut across the Navajo agricultural lands to skip the traffic in Bloomfield and Farmington. Email if you want the route details.

Ship Rock

It was a sunny morning and the atmosphere was particularly clear due to yesterday's rains. It was a good morning to photograph Ship Rock, so when I came out on the highway formerly known as 666 I turned south instead of toward Colorado. I took the side road that leads to the air strip, stopping a couple of times on the narrow shoulder for photos. I think this one turned out particularly fine.

Ship Rock on the Navajo Nation

I turned around, headed to Shiprock and filled my gas tank. I drove north into Colorado stopping for tacos in Cortez before heading to Dolores and the San Juans. As I drove up the east fork of the Dolores River it was cloudy and dark, but no rain. I didn't stop for photos as there are plenty from earlier posts if you're interested.

Alta Lakes

I turned off onto Alta Lakes Road (Closed winters). It's nowhere near the worst road I've bumped over, and it's not technical at all, but it's a slow, tiring 45 minute drive. Not suitable for trailers and high clearance is a good idea, though a careful driver would be able to negotiate the road in a passenger car.

At the campground I wasn't surprised my favorite site was already taken, as was the site I considered #2. In looking around for an alternative I couldn't help but notice that a number of the sites had a large mud puddle in the middle of where you'd park your vehicle. Evidence of all the rain in the last several days. I found a site with a dry, level spot for my camper. It was a little closer to the chemical toilets than I'd have preferred, but otherwise wasn't bad and not too awfully far from the lake.

My first night's campsite - you can just see the lake through the trees

After setting up I wandered a bit, took a few photos, then scurried for the camper when a light shower came through. Later I walked through the campground and stopped to talk to the two couples who were camped in my favorite spot. Very nice folks. I asked how long they were staying, if they didn't mind my asking. "We're leaving in the morning," they replied. I expressed a desire to move to their site when they left, which they were fine with, and they told me they'd probably leave around 9:30 in the morning. I asked if anyone else had enquired and metaphorically called "dibs."

Lower Alta Lake with Palmyra Peak in the background

There were wonderful sunset colors on Palmyra Peak and reflected in the lake.

Beautiful color near sundown

The campground was very busy on this Thursday night with lots of folks looking for sites. I think a few people stretched the rules a bit on where it was legit to camp. I certainly ended up with a lot of neighbors and some were not exactly quiet. I learned many campers were here for the Telluride Blues & Brews festival. 

Friday, September 16th.

In last year's Alta Lakes post, I go into much more detail, so read that post, as well, if you are interested in coming to this spectacular location.

Male first year Red Crossbill molting into adult plumage - getting a drink in a puddle

I was able to move my camp to my favorite spot. I love this campsite. It has a commanding view of the lower lake, the surrounding forest, and the dramatic surrounding mountains -- the best view of any of the sites. It is also fairly level and I can park where the sun shines on my rooftop solar panels for much of the day, yet there is shade around the site and trees to enjoy. Sitting in my comfortable chair I can bask in the beautiful view for hours letting all cares of civilization slip away.

The photo below is not from my campsite, but from one of my wanders along the lake.

I loved the tranquil beauty of the shoreline.

That afternoon another FWC pop-up camper, a Hawk model, pulled into the site just past mine. That evening I saw they were building a campfire so I brought them the few pieces of wood that had been left at my site. K & J are from Fresno, and although they have had their camper for a little while, they were on their longest camping trip so far and were stopping at all their bucket-list locations. We had a pleasant conversation about camping and our campers as we enjoyed the campfire.

Saturday, September 17th

Dawn clouds reflecting in the lake

Looking up at my campsite from the lakeshore

Mostly cloudy again this morning, but no rain at least. I spent the morning enjoying the view and jumping up, from time to time, to try (mostly unsuccessfully) to photograph various of the wild birds that were flitting all around.

This little chipmunk paused to allow a photograph

A ubiquitous Junco posed for a moment

Once it warmed up the damselflies came out to bask in the sun.

In the afternoon I hiked up to and around what's called the upper lake, but is really the middle lake. I didn't even realize it was there last year until I saw the spherical panaroma taken by my drone. It was an easy hike, though if you are unacclimated to higher elevations, you might want to take it easy. Alta Lakes is at 11,300 feet elevation. The road to the upper lake is only for residents of the few summer homes and The Observatory lodge (which was apparently rented out to a wedding party this weekend).

The upper (middle) lake

A view of my campsite from across the lower lake (at 70mm)

That evening I met C & B, an interesting young couple from Denver, tent camping from their Jeep in the next site. They'd moved from Maryland within the last two years to be closer to all the wonderful outdoors opportunities we enjoy in the west. We had a delightful conversation about camping sites and scenic locations.

Sunday, September 18th

There was a little color in the dawn sky today.

Early morning light

I tried my hand at more wildlife photography around the campsite with better success than yesterday.

Northern Flicker

Mountain Chickadee

Pine Siskin - there was a whole flock flitting around a tree that had fallen over into the lake

Gray Jays (aka Whiskey Jack) are not shy, but difficult for me to photograph

A Paddle-tailed Darner in an extremely rare moment of repose

I took my M2P up for a short aerial photography session. I took a spherical panorama, but the one I took last year is a bit better, so I'll link it here instead of the new one.

Alta Townsite

In the afternoon I hiked down to the Alta Townsite. (The road to the lake goes right through the townsite, but a hike is much more pleasant endeavor.) I'd seen on my map there is an official trail from the campground to the townsite. I'd also noticed small trails leading off the ridge behind my campsite that I thought might meet up with the actual trail. I walked down one of those and thought I was doing good as it turned in the right direction once off the slope, but then it disappeared. I kept going in the same direction, overland, and after a bit came to the real trail. I recommend you take the official trail all the way.

First glimpse of the townsite from the trail

It is a lovely trail alongside a bit of a running brook. It comes out on the old Boomerang Road (now closed to motor vehicles) just north of the township. I wandered around the ghost town taking photos and admiring the view. Apparently there was not mine here, rather this was where the workers at the Gold King Mine lived. More info just below.

The magnificent view of Sunshine Mountain from Alta Townsite
Lizard Head is on the left; Wilson Peak on the right

Alta Townsite

The hike back up the trail to the campground was again beautiful and I confess to stopping a number of times to catch my breath. The terminus of the trail is just before where the road turns off into the campground. There are a few other trails in the area; the Boomerang trail is suitable for hiking or biking and leads to trails in the Telluride Ski Area.

The trail from the townsite back to the campground

Farther up the trail almost to the campground

Alta Lakes

There were nice colors on the surrounding peaks this evening.

Sunset colors - a two photo composite to give you an extra-wide view

Monday, Sept 19th

I wish I could say I didn't take a bunch of photos of the lake this morning, but I'll spare you all but one of those. I attempted more bird photos, but none of those are worth sharing, either.

A view of the lower lake looking toward the dam

I was in no rush to pack up, even though I was leaving today. Yesterday I'd requested a weather forecast via my inReach satellite communicator, and it indicated that rain was going to move into the mountains, maybe tonight, but certainly by tomorrow. I thought I'd move to one of the sites I'd planned as an alternate for the trip. Either up on the ridge between the two forks of the Dolores River, or down in the valley of the west fork.

On the drive down I noticed a spur road I had neither seen last time nor on my drive up this time. The acute angle of the junction is such that it is difficult to see while driving up the road. It looked like it was open and not marked private. In looking at Google Maps satellite view at home I can see a pond labelled Wild Boy Lake. There is evidence of vehicle wear and likely dispersed camping. In searching if there was camping allowed there I came across this NFS Alta Lakes Recreation Area Master Plan document.

Published in December 2018, some of the suggested changes have been implemented, such as the Phase I modifications to Lower Alta Lakes camping area, but I'm unsure about the progress of the other changes. I suspect many will not see implementation any time soon. It does imply that dispersed camping is available around Wild Boy Lake. It may be restricted in future, though not eliminated. 

It also confirmed my observation of last year that there are a few dispersed camping spots in Gold King Basin. Those are accessible via a side road that takes off Alta Lakes Road less that a thousand feet before the entrance to the campground. My impression from the Master Plan is that they may formalize the campsites in Gold King Basin at some point. If you are interested in visiting the area the document is informative.

Dunton Road

I turned south on CO-145, then took the switchbacks up Dunton Road, about 5 miles south of Lizard Head Pass. I turned south on Eagle Creek Road that runs along the top of the ridge. I checked the dispersed campsites along there, most were taken by hunting camps, though one was open. I thought I'd check the sites lower, closer to the river, before making a decision on where to camp. 

I stopped at the Calico Trailhead parking area to use the vault toilet. I also flew my M2P up a few hundred feet to take photos and a panorama. What with the clouds the lighting was not good for photos. The panorama is mildly interesting and does give a good sense of the geography. That's Mount Wilson and you can just see Lizard Head to the right.

I returned to Dunton Road and continued west. I paused to briefly chat with a couple hunters camped right by the road. It is elk season, but they were unsuccessful so far. 

Mount Wilson north of Dunton Road

The short stretch of road between the Navajo Lake trailhead and the bridge across the West Dolores River is where I'd seen potential campsites during previous trips along the road. One site was definitely taken by hunters. The other good location had a car parked there, but no evidence of tents or camping gear.

I continued down to the the NFS Burro Bridge Campground. It is a clean, pleasant developed campground well above the river (no river access). Vault toilets and water are available. There are many corrals, as well. I saw three trucks with large camping trailers pull out as I pulled in. No one else was in the campground. Fee is $22 (half off with annual or senior pass.)

I decided instead to drive back up to look at the site where there had been a car parked. Luckily enough it was now gone. I drove off the road and up onto the meadow. I saw double-tracks that led farther up and around a corner where I discovered a very nice little site amidst the aspens. It looked like it would work out best if I backed in and stopped where I'd get some late afternoon sun on my solar panels, so I turned around and did exactly that. 

A pleasant afternoon in my campsite off Dunton Road.

I was now at around 9000' and the temperatures were in the mid 70s. I sat my chair under the trees and enjoyed the scenery while reading my book. The view was not spectacular like at Alta Lakes, but very verdant and easy on the eyes. Later I walked around and explored a bit. I was close enough to hear the road, but far enough back not to be able to see it. Very few vehicles drove by.

Tuesday, September 20th

I fully expected to wake up to clouds or even rain, but was greeted to clear blue sky and sun. After breakfast I packed up and headed south, down Dunton Road, stopping once or twice for photos. I quickly realized that the slopes of this entire upper valley were carpeted with aspen and made a note to myself to return here for a future autumn foliage trip. Nearly all the aspen were thick with green leaves, but a few gave a hint they were at least thinking of changing sometime soon.

There is another dispersed camping area off Dunton Road next to the river, just before you get to the Cold Creek Road junction north of Dunton. I hadn't checked it yesterday as I fully expected it to be full of hunters, but no one was there when I drove by.

Dunton Road - you can just see the road to the camping area described above

Just down the road is the trailhead to Geyser Spring
Photos and a short video from my 2015 trip

By the time I reached the lower valley and the pavement, high clouds were moving in. When I climbed out of Dolores and looked to the west I could see rain moving in. I was doing well to get out of the mountains when I did.

The rest of the trip was thankfully uneventful as I returned home via the same route as I had driven out on. I was most of the way home when a thunderstorm gave me a free car wash. And of course it was hot and dry once I pulled in my driveway.

Thanks for reading my blog and as a public service I'd like to remind everyone not to believe every datum you see in every map. Sometimes the map makers introduce "errors" to catch copyright thieves, sometimes they get it wrong, and probably more often the road has been closed or the campground has moved. Always check a local source if your route or destination is critical.

Silverton/Telluride Loop, CO; Part 2 - August 2019

Part 2 of 2; continued from Part 1

Part 2: Telluride Area

Remember you can click any image to see a larger version.
For spherical panoramas: click to activate (if necessary), click and drag mouse to change orientation, click the full-screen icon at upper right for the best experience.

Wednesday, August 14th (continued)

Telluride

I drove through the town of Telluride. Traffic in this tourist destination was heavy, but moving. On a previous trip I'd stopped at the parking area past the Pandora mine at the head of the box canyon and photographed Bridal Veil Falls from there with my long lens. My pre-trip research lead me to believe I could drive up a number of the switchbacks to get closer to not only Bridal Veil, but also Ingram Falls where I could get aerial photos and videos. At some point near the top, the road is supposedly one-way to the west from Black Bear Pass, I didn't know if I would come across a Do Not Enter sign, but I didn't.

The switchbacks were steep and rocky. There were lots of vehicles of all strips driving up and down. There were also lots of hikers on the road. I slowly climbed the road trying to match my memory of the satellite view I saw at home with what I was seeing now.

I stopped at one switchback and took to the air. I was quite a ways below the main Ingram Falls at the top of the canyon, but was able to see another switchback with cars parked about half-way up, so headed for there to get photos and video.

Looking back toward Telluride.

Three aerial photos, rising up the mountain side, of Ingram Falls:

I'm a bit foggy on the sequence of things now, I think I drove up the road to the next switchback on the other side where there was a great view of Bridal Veil Falls. This also had a reasonably sized parking area and level spot to fly from. I took lots of video and some photos of the falls and a perspective of the power house not many folks can see.

On the way down I stopped and parked at the switchback close to the bottom of Bridal Veil Falls. This was the destination for most of the hikers (and there was a portable toilet, too.) The cool mists billowing off the bottom of the falls provided welcome cooling on a very warm day.

Foot of the falls.

I returned to the valley floor, made my way through town, and headed south on CO-145.

Trout Lake Area

On Trout Lake Road, past the lake, there is a trestle across the stream that feeds the lake. This was used by the Galloping Goose Railcars that served mountain towns in the area. I'd photographed it previously, but hoped an aerial view would be more interesting. Official USFS Trestle website

Trout Lake Trestle used by the Galloping Goose.

Water tank from back when there were steam locomotives.

I had hoped to camp at a dispersed site up Hope Lake Trail Road, FS-627, just past the lake where I'd camped previously - it had a fabulous view of the surrounding mountains. As fate would have it that site was occupied, there were a number of other dispersed sites up that road, but only a swampy few were untaken.

I drove back down and looked at the dispersed camping area near Priest Lake, but didn't find any to my satisfaction. I spoke with a fellow there who suggested I return to Trout Lake Road. There are sites along the south side past the trestle he said.

Since I was close to the highway I elected to take the pavement to the southern terminus of FS-626. There is a large meadow with dispersed camping at that junction. Nice views, but too many neighbors for my taste. I headed east on the gravel road. There were a few sites with views, taken. I tried an unoccupied site on the south side of the road, but it was full of mosquitos.

I continued down the road, passing a few campers parked on the grassy verge with tents or small trailers. I left the lake environs for the deep forest, then spotted a dirt spur leading up into the trees. It was a very nice spot at the end of a small loop - far enough from the road to be private (though not one vehicle came by that night) and relatively free from flying bugs. There wasn't a view from the level spot where I set up camp, but I was able to carry my chair about 20' down the loop for a small view of some mountain tops.

My campsite about 75 feet off FS-626.

It was a pleasant evening and I was exhausted.

Thursday, August 15th

I kicked myself Thursday morning when I realized I'd missed a chance to photograph the mountains east of the lake in the previous evenings rosy glow. I love that mountain range. I'd just been too tired the night before and it never occurred to me. So I decided that I would hang around the general area and drive over Dunton Road to the West Dolores River. I'd then return to Trout Lake for some evening light on the mountain range.

Sunshine Mountain Overlook

I headed back toward Telluride intending to go only as far as the Sunshine Mountain Overlook. When I'd driven by that view the day before the sun was behind the mountains. It should be in a position to illuminate the view in the morning.

On the way I stopped at a pull-out to get a photo of the valley of the San Miguel River South Fork.

Looking down into the valley of the South Fork of the San Miguel River.

I then drove to the official highway overlook. There I took to the air for photos and video.

Aerial view from above the overlook.

Informational sign at the overlook.

South Fork Preserve

From the overlook, I headed back south and took the Illium turnoff down South Fork Road, FS-625. It follows the South Fork of the San Miguel River. I'd driven down there on a previous trip and remembered it was very pretty. It was nice, though warm. I stopped at the Sheep Corrals day-use area and walked down to the South Fork of the San Miguel River. I hoped to find dragonflies, but didn't see any.

South Fork of the San Miguel River at the Sheep Corrals day-use area.

I continued down (north) along the road. I stopped at the Illium trailhead, crossed the footbridge and walked a short ways down the trail. It was too warm to go far, but I did take a few photos.

View looking toward the north.

Mary E Campground

Just before you get to where the road is paved I found a small campground that I didn't know was there. This is a no-fee, first-come, primitive campground run by the forest service. It was pretty dusty and hot, but might be a treasure for those who want free camping close to Telluride.

I turned around at the main highway and drove back up South Fork Road to where I had entered. From there I turned south.

Dunton Road

Several years ago I had explored up the West Dolores River, taking hikes and spending a couple of nights. I'd followed Dunton Road, FS-535, up and over the ridge and then down the switchbacks to CO-145. This time I'd go up those switchbacks, spend the afternoon wandering, then head back to Trout Lake for the evening.

The switchbacks were even narrower than I remembered and there were a surprising number of vehicles coming down on a Wednesday afternoon. The road is is in good condition and suitable for low slung passenger cars.

West Dolores River

I followed the road nearly all the way to Dunton, which is little more than a (not particularly) wide spot in the road - let me know if I'm wrong. There are a couple of very nice dispersed sites right next to the river just a short ways north of the junction with FS-611. They'd been occupied on my previous trip, but were empty now, perhaps due to the large mud puddles in the access road.

I turned around there and pulled into the USFS Burro Bridge Campground to check it out. It is next to the river and a very nice little campground with a super friendly "hostess with the mostest", as she herself pronounced.

I returned to the road, then pulled off at the modern Burro Bridge across the West Dolores for a photo opp.

West Dolores River at the new Burro Bridge.

Cool moth on flowers alongside the river.

Mount Wilson

I hoped to get photos of the southern flank of Mount Wilson as it is a dramatic vista seen across a wide, green meadow. The clouds that had come up in the afternoon were casting shadows that I didn't like, so I explored a short ways up Eagle Creek Road, FS-471. I didn't actually drive very far, but did pass several good dispersed sites only a short ways south of Dunton Road. A couple of those even had great mountain views. There's a vault toilet at the Calico National Recreation Trail head, in case anyone needs to stop.

My lunch site where I hung out and waited to get the photo below.

The clouds had dissipated a bit by then. I pulled off Dunton Road along the crest. Much of "The Meadows" is private land and posted, so I stayed on the right-of-way. I set my chair in the shade of my camper and had lunch. I hung my camera nearby and took an occasional photo, hoping to get a nice one. I think I did, you tell me.

"The Meadows" with Mount Wilson in the background.

I headed back on Dunton Road, pausing to get a photo of Flat Top Mountain before descending the switchbacks.

Flattop Mountain is across on the other side of the Dolores River.

Lizard Head

On my way back toward Trout Lake I happened to look over to my left and was amazed to see a granite tower up against the skyline. This was Lizard Head Peak and for all the times I'd driven this road I'd never noticed it before. Perhaps because the peak was in the sun and the forest in the foreground was shaded by clouds. I pulled into the parking area for the Cross Mountain Trail and took a number of photos and aerials.

Mount Wilson and Lizard Head peak.
This was from a few hundred feet in the air; don't expect this view from the parking area.

A closer look at Lizard Head (135mm lens equivalent.)
It's a very cool tower, but personally I don't see a lizard's head here. Perhaps it looks more like a lizard from another location.

Trout Lake Redux

I thought I'd take a chance and drive the couple miles up Hope Lake Trail Road to see if my favorite spot had opened up, but no joy. I decided to return to the campsite I'd had the night before and if it was unoccupied, I'd claim it. It wasn't, so I did. After relaxing a while and waiting for evening light to set it, I marked the site as "occupied" and drove over to Trout Lake. I parked at the picnic area at the northwest corner of the lake.

Fisherman, earlier in the day, near the picnic area. Sheep Mountain in the background.

Over the course of the evening I took a number of photos and made several sorties out above the lake for video and aerial photos of the dramatic mountain range to the east. It was a bit of a balancing act as I'd hoped for that rosy glow on the rocky mountains as the sun sank, but at the same time the shadows of Mount Wilson and neighboring peaks were creeping up the slopes behind the lake.

Here is a panorama created using three RAW files from the M2P, lightly processed in ACR and stitched by Photoshop. The secret for successful PS stitching is to make sure there is plenty of overlap in your images.

This link should allow you to see a full-size image - I recommend you then maximize your browser window.

This informational sign was located at the Lizard Head Interpretive Site, so the perspective is different from the photo above, but may give you some idea of the mountain names and certainly a description of their formation.

I returned to my campsite for the evening.

Friday, August 16th

I had achieved all my objectives for the trip so broke camp and headed south on the highway. I thought about maybe another night in the mountains before heading home, but for the first time this week week clouds were building in the morning and there were high clouds moving in. I decided I'll call the trip a success and head home before the weekend.

Rico

As I came into the old mining town of Rico, which has had something of a modern renaissance, I noticed an old mine structure. So I had to stop and get images and video.

Atlantic Cable Mine in Rico.

Informational sign at the mine.

Dolores

The previous day I'd met a gentleman from Mancos, on a Goldwing Trike, at the Lizard Head Interpretive Site. He asked if I'd seen "the rock"? When I said not, he told me of two giant rocks that had broken off a cliff and rolled down onto the highway just this side of Dolores. One landed right on the highway. It was too large to move, so they had to dynamite it. The other was far enough off the highway that they simply build a railing to cordon it off when they repaired the highway.

The remaining of the two "rocks" that broke off the cliff and rolled down to the highway.

And home again.

Thanks for joining me on this journey. I hope to return to Colorado mining country again soon to acquire more footage to complete a historic mine video.