Alta Lakes, Colorado - September 2022

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September 14 - 20, 2022

After my wonderful Utah expedition in April of this year I was eager for my next trip. Life, however, intervened. It was just one thing after another and I'll spare you the gritty details. My schedule was clear to hit the road after Labor Day and I began preparations for camping in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado. Then I had to delay my departure by several days to let rain storms clear out. OK, now let's go...

Wednesday, September 14th

Angel Peak Scenic Area

My goal for this trip was Alta Lakes, south of Telluride, Colorado. The forecast indicated that one more day was needed for the rain to fully clear out, so I took off late in the afternoon with Angel Peak in northern New Mexico as my destination for the night. It's only about a 2-1/2 hour drive NW on US-550. There were thunderstorms nearby my route and I got to see a double rainbow as I was coming into Cuba. I arrived at Angel Peak near dark and set up at my favorite spot. This is my fourth and shortest stay. Click "Angel Peak Scenic Area" in the location column to the right if you want more story and many more photos.

Thursday, September 15th

I didn't waste any time in the morning. I snapped my obligatory campsite photo and hit the road. 

Angel Peak campsite

I took my usual shortcut across the Navajo agricultural lands to skip the traffic in Bloomfield and Farmington. Email if you want the route details.

Ship Rock

It was a sunny morning and the atmosphere was particularly clear due to yesterday's rains. It was a good morning to photograph Ship Rock, so when I came out on the highway formerly known as 666 I turned south instead of toward Colorado. I took the side road that leads to the air strip, stopping a couple of times on the narrow shoulder for photos. I think this one turned out particularly fine.

Ship Rock on the Navajo Nation

I turned around, headed to Shiprock and filled my gas tank. I drove north into Colorado stopping for tacos in Cortez before heading to Dolores and the San Juans. As I drove up the east fork of the Dolores River it was cloudy and dark, but no rain. I didn't stop for photos as there are plenty from earlier posts if you're interested.

Alta Lakes

I turned off onto Alta Lakes Road (Closed winters). It's nowhere near the worst road I've bumped over, and it's not technical at all, but it's a slow, tiring 45 minute drive. Not suitable for trailers and high clearance is a good idea, though a careful driver would be able to negotiate the road in a passenger car.

At the campground I wasn't surprised my favorite site was already taken, as was the site I considered #2. In looking around for an alternative I couldn't help but notice that a number of the sites had a large mud puddle in the middle of where you'd park your vehicle. Evidence of all the rain in the last several days. I found a site with a dry, level spot for my camper. It was a little closer to the chemical toilets than I'd have preferred, but otherwise wasn't bad and not too awfully far from the lake.

My first night's campsite - you can just see the lake through the trees

After setting up I wandered a bit, took a few photos, then scurried for the camper when a light shower came through. Later I walked through the campground and stopped to talk to the two couples who were camped in my favorite spot. Very nice folks. I asked how long they were staying, if they didn't mind my asking. "We're leaving in the morning," they replied. I expressed a desire to move to their site when they left, which they were fine with, and they told me they'd probably leave around 9:30 in the morning. I asked if anyone else had enquired and metaphorically called "dibs."

Lower Alta Lake with Palmyra Peak in the background

There were wonderful sunset colors on Palmyra Peak and reflected in the lake.

Beautiful color near sundown

The campground was very busy on this Thursday night with lots of folks looking for sites. I think a few people stretched the rules a bit on where it was legit to camp. I certainly ended up with a lot of neighbors and some were not exactly quiet. I learned many campers were here for the Telluride Blues & Brews festival. 

Friday, September 16th.

In last year's Alta Lakes post, I go into much more detail, so read that post, as well, if you are interested in coming to this spectacular location.

Male first year Red Crossbill molting into adult plumage - getting a drink in a puddle

I was able to move my camp to my favorite spot. I love this campsite. It has a commanding view of the lower lake, the surrounding forest, and the dramatic surrounding mountains -- the best view of any of the sites. It is also fairly level and I can park where the sun shines on my rooftop solar panels for much of the day, yet there is shade around the site and trees to enjoy. Sitting in my comfortable chair I can bask in the beautiful view for hours letting all cares of civilization slip away.

The photo below is not from my campsite, but from one of my wanders along the lake.

I loved the tranquil beauty of the shoreline.

That afternoon another FWC pop-up camper, a Hawk model, pulled into the site just past mine. That evening I saw they were building a campfire so I brought them the few pieces of wood that had been left at my site. K & J are from Fresno, and although they have had their camper for a little while, they were on their longest camping trip so far and were stopping at all their bucket-list locations. We had a pleasant conversation about camping and our campers as we enjoyed the campfire.

Saturday, September 17th

Dawn clouds reflecting in the lake

Looking up at my campsite from the lakeshore

Mostly cloudy again this morning, but no rain at least. I spent the morning enjoying the view and jumping up, from time to time, to try (mostly unsuccessfully) to photograph various of the wild birds that were flitting all around.

This little chipmunk paused to allow a photograph

A ubiquitous Junco posed for a moment

Once it warmed up the damselflies came out to bask in the sun.

In the afternoon I hiked up to and around what's called the upper lake, but is really the middle lake. I didn't even realize it was there last year until I saw the spherical panaroma taken by my drone. It was an easy hike, though if you are unacclimated to higher elevations, you might want to take it easy. Alta Lakes is at 11,300 feet elevation. The road to the upper lake is only for residents of the few summer homes and The Observatory lodge (which was apparently rented out to a wedding party this weekend).

The upper (middle) lake

A view of my campsite from across the lower lake (at 70mm)

That evening I met C & B, an interesting young couple from Denver, tent camping from their Jeep in the next site. They'd moved from Maryland within the last two years to be closer to all the wonderful outdoors opportunities we enjoy in the west. We had a delightful conversation about camping sites and scenic locations.

Sunday, September 18th

There was a little color in the dawn sky today.

Early morning light

I tried my hand at more wildlife photography around the campsite with better success than yesterday.

Northern Flicker

Mountain Chickadee

Pine Siskin - there was a whole flock flitting around a tree that had fallen over into the lake

Gray Jays (aka Whiskey Jack) are not shy, but difficult for me to photograph

A Paddle-tailed Darner in an extremely rare moment of repose

I took my M2P up for a short aerial photography session. I took a spherical panorama, but the one I took last year is a bit better, so I'll link it here instead of the new one.

Alta Townsite

In the afternoon I hiked down to the Alta Townsite. (The road to the lake goes right through the townsite, but a hike is much more pleasant endeavor.) I'd seen on my map there is an official trail from the campground to the townsite. I'd also noticed small trails leading off the ridge behind my campsite that I thought might meet up with the actual trail. I walked down one of those and thought I was doing good as it turned in the right direction once off the slope, but then it disappeared. I kept going in the same direction, overland, and after a bit came to the real trail. I recommend you take the official trail all the way.

First glimpse of the townsite from the trail

It is a lovely trail alongside a bit of a running brook. It comes out on the old Boomerang Road (now closed to motor vehicles) just north of the township. I wandered around the ghost town taking photos and admiring the view. Apparently there was not mine here, rather this was where the workers at the Gold King Mine lived. More info just below.

The magnificent view of Sunshine Mountain from Alta Townsite
Lizard Head is on the left; Wilson Peak on the right

Alta Townsite

The hike back up the trail to the campground was again beautiful and I confess to stopping a number of times to catch my breath. The terminus of the trail is just before where the road turns off into the campground. There are a few other trails in the area; the Boomerang trail is suitable for hiking or biking and leads to trails in the Telluride Ski Area.

The trail from the townsite back to the campground

Farther up the trail almost to the campground

Alta Lakes

There were nice colors on the surrounding peaks this evening.

Sunset colors - a two photo composite to give you an extra-wide view

Monday, Sept 19th

I wish I could say I didn't take a bunch of photos of the lake this morning, but I'll spare you all but one of those. I attempted more bird photos, but none of those are worth sharing, either.

A view of the lower lake looking toward the dam

I was in no rush to pack up, even though I was leaving today. Yesterday I'd requested a weather forecast via my inReach satellite communicator, and it indicated that rain was going to move into the mountains, maybe tonight, but certainly by tomorrow. I thought I'd move to one of the sites I'd planned as an alternate for the trip. Either up on the ridge between the two forks of the Dolores River, or down in the valley of the west fork.

On the drive down I noticed a spur road I had neither seen last time nor on my drive up this time. The acute angle of the junction is such that it is difficult to see while driving up the road. It looked like it was open and not marked private. In looking at Google Maps satellite view at home I can see a pond labelled Wild Boy Lake. There is evidence of vehicle wear and likely dispersed camping. In searching if there was camping allowed there I came across this NFS Alta Lakes Recreation Area Master Plan document.

Published in December 2018, some of the suggested changes have been implemented, such as the Phase I modifications to Lower Alta Lakes camping area, but I'm unsure about the progress of the other changes. I suspect many will not see implementation any time soon. It does imply that dispersed camping is available around Wild Boy Lake. It may be restricted in future, though not eliminated. 

It also confirmed my observation of last year that there are a few dispersed camping spots in Gold King Basin. Those are accessible via a side road that takes off Alta Lakes Road less that a thousand feet before the entrance to the campground. My impression from the Master Plan is that they may formalize the campsites in Gold King Basin at some point. If you are interested in visiting the area the document is informative.

Dunton Road

I turned south on CO-145, then took the switchbacks up Dunton Road, about 5 miles south of Lizard Head Pass. I turned south on Eagle Creek Road that runs along the top of the ridge. I checked the dispersed campsites along there, most were taken by hunting camps, though one was open. I thought I'd check the sites lower, closer to the river, before making a decision on where to camp. 

I stopped at the Calico Trailhead parking area to use the vault toilet. I also flew my M2P up a few hundred feet to take photos and a panorama. What with the clouds the lighting was not good for photos. The panorama is mildly interesting and does give a good sense of the geography. That's Mount Wilson and you can just see Lizard Head to the right.

I returned to Dunton Road and continued west. I paused to briefly chat with a couple hunters camped right by the road. It is elk season, but they were unsuccessful so far. 

Mount Wilson north of Dunton Road

The short stretch of road between the Navajo Lake trailhead and the bridge across the West Dolores River is where I'd seen potential campsites during previous trips along the road. One site was definitely taken by hunters. The other good location had a car parked there, but no evidence of tents or camping gear.

I continued down to the the NFS Burro Bridge Campground. It is a clean, pleasant developed campground well above the river (no river access). Vault toilets and water are available. There are many corrals, as well. I saw three trucks with large camping trailers pull out as I pulled in. No one else was in the campground. Fee is $22 (half off with annual or senior pass.)

I decided instead to drive back up to look at the site where there had been a car parked. Luckily enough it was now gone. I drove off the road and up onto the meadow. I saw double-tracks that led farther up and around a corner where I discovered a very nice little site amidst the aspens. It looked like it would work out best if I backed in and stopped where I'd get some late afternoon sun on my solar panels, so I turned around and did exactly that. 

A pleasant afternoon in my campsite off Dunton Road.

I was now at around 9000' and the temperatures were in the mid 70s. I sat my chair under the trees and enjoyed the scenery while reading my book. The view was not spectacular like at Alta Lakes, but very verdant and easy on the eyes. Later I walked around and explored a bit. I was close enough to hear the road, but far enough back not to be able to see it. Very few vehicles drove by.

Tuesday, September 20th

I fully expected to wake up to clouds or even rain, but was greeted to clear blue sky and sun. After breakfast I packed up and headed south, down Dunton Road, stopping once or twice for photos. I quickly realized that the slopes of this entire upper valley were carpeted with aspen and made a note to myself to return here for a future autumn foliage trip. Nearly all the aspen were thick with green leaves, but a few gave a hint they were at least thinking of changing sometime soon.

There is another dispersed camping area off Dunton Road next to the river, just before you get to the Cold Creek Road junction north of Dunton. I hadn't checked it yesterday as I fully expected it to be full of hunters, but no one was there when I drove by.

Dunton Road - you can just see the road to the camping area described above

Just down the road is the trailhead to Geyser Spring
Photos and a short video from my 2015 trip

By the time I reached the lower valley and the pavement, high clouds were moving in. When I climbed out of Dolores and looked to the west I could see rain moving in. I was doing well to get out of the mountains when I did.

The rest of the trip was thankfully uneventful as I returned home via the same route as I had driven out on. I was most of the way home when a thunderstorm gave me a free car wash. And of course it was hot and dry once I pulled in my driveway.

Thanks for reading my blog and as a public service I'd like to remind everyone not to believe every datum you see in every map. Sometimes the map makers introduce "errors" to catch copyright thieves, sometimes they get it wrong, and probably more often the road has been closed or the campground has moved. Always check a local source if your route or destination is critical.