Friday, November 4, 2022

Southeastern Utah - October 2022: Part 1

Valley of the Gods - Johns Canyon Road - Muley Point & Cedar Point - Moss Back Road & Red Canyon 

October 10 - 16, 2022

The monsoon season this year was welcomed by southwestern trees, plants and shrubs, but not necessarily by those of us wanting to go camping. The rains seemed to be continuing well into October and I wondered if I'd be able to get out this month. Suddenly the forecast changed and the week ahead looked dry, sunny, and mild. I quickly gathered my supplies and headed for southeastern Utah. My tentative plans were two nights each in Valley of the Gods, John's Canyon, and Moss Back Road above Red Canyon, UT.

Remember to click on a photo to see a larger version


Part 1 - Valley of the Gods

October 10

I had to fill my tank before I left the city and the lines at Costco were the worst I'd ever experienced, but finally got on the road. I took my usual route up to the four corners area, not that there is really any choice. Instead of turning north as I often do, I continued on US-160 to US-191 which crosses the San Juan River just west of Bluff, UT. Although the forecast was clear there sure seemed to be a large thunderstorm to the north. I was concerned, though as I traveled farther west I could see it was over the Abajo Mountains and Elk Ridge west of Monticello. It appeared Valley of the Gods was probably safe, but I didn't know how dry.

Comb Ridge

After crossing the ridge I looked up Comb Wash and saw a photo opportunity. I turned north and took a few photos. I was pleasantly surprised the road was dry so was hopeful my destination would be dry, too. I continued west on US-163.

Looking north along the west side of Comb Ridge.

Valley of the Gods

I turned off the highway at the east entrance of Valley of the Gods. The water crossing that's within sight of the highway was no deeper than usual, so I guessed the storm had passed well to the north. The first several dispersed camp sites were empty, but soon the camping areas within sight of the distinctive sandstone formations were full of RVs and travel trailers. That middle stretch of the east side is popular with the big rigs as the sites are large with easy access.

Looking north toward the middle stretch of the east side.

As I got to the northern third of the road all my previous campsites were occupied. I crossed my fingers and kept driving. I made the horseshoe turn just past Castle Butte, and those nearby sites were taken, as well. Past the tall formations west of the road I spied a pop-up camper set up near the road next to a little hillock. It looked similar to a FWC or ATC, but was another brand. As the folks were by their truck I rolled down my window to say "hi." It was a Caribou Lite from Outfitter Mfg. in Colorado. The nice folks were from Montana.

Turns out there was a good campsite beyond that hill which I quickly claimed. It had a great view across the valley and the adjacent hill provided privacy between the two sites. As I set up my new neighbors waved as they pedaled by on their bicycles to explore down the road.

My campsite for the first night.

I didn't see much in the way of wildlife on this trip. There were bats flying in the late evening in the valley and I heard one coyote sing out in the no-mans-land between the U of the road. Only very few birds here or at the later locations. Not many wildflowers still blooming in October, either, but I did see a few.

Some variety of Beeplant though it doesn't match any I found online.

I relaxed in my camp chair and watched the shadows grow. If there was a sunset, I missed it.

A note on campsites in Valley of the Gods: for the most part sites are simply bare patches of natural gravel near the road in seemingly random locations. A few are down short spur roads. A few may be perched near a wash. There are a few piñon trees in the area and a few of the larger washes may have cottonwood trees along their course. Most campsites have none of those trees. None have any amenities. Most are vulnerable to winds in season. Yet the sites are gorgeous because of the amazing views of the sandstorm buttes and canyons. It's one of my favorite places to camp in the world. (And judging by the number of campers there, I'm not alone in my opinion.)

Also note that I've not stayed in the same campsite twice in this beautiful area, so each separate blog post has photographs from unique vantage points. This will make the 8th post I've published for this spot. Look at the locations list in the right-hand column for additional photos and descriptions of this area.


October 11

Valley of the Gods (continued)


Moonset at sunrise from my campsite.

Another view of my campsite.


I was out my door at dawn with my camera. Took lots of photos, but mostly just admired the morning. I climbed a small hill across the road to get a new vantage.

View of the head of the valley.

After my neighbors decamped late morning. I moved up to their site where the view was better.

It was a beautiful clear day with a light breeze to moderate the warm sun. I flew my drone to get a few photos. The spherical panorama was not as good as any of my previous versions (here's my favorite), so haven't posted it, but here is a stitched 3-image panorama.

View of the head of the valley from above my campsite. Click to enlarge.

In the early evening I walked southwest cross country along the edge of the basin from my camp. I was able to photograph the pinnacles west of my site from a vantage opposite of the road.

The sandstone formations near my site, but seen from the side opposite the road.

The sunlit edge of the mesa across the valley with just the top of my camper showing.

I walked up a informal trail to see if I could catch the setting sun reflecting off the pinnacles to the east, but the shadows were all wrong. When I turned around to go back to my campsite I was shown this sublime vista.

Looking southerly down the valley at sunset.


October 12

Valley of the Gods (continued)

Yesterday I missed the golden light on the sides of the pinacles up the road from where I'd camped, so today I made that a priority. The moon was still high enough above the horizon to capture it behind the sandstone formations. I took many photos, but they just didn't have as much magic as the actual scene. Here are a couple.

First light at sunrise.

Golden hour as the moon sets behind the sandstone.

I packed up and headed out toward the western end of Valley of the Gods Road. This leg of the road is longer (and maybe a bit rougher with fewer pinacles), but still beautiful. See my earlier posts for photos.


End of Part 1; go to Part 2


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