San Juan Mountains, CO - Sept 2021: Part 2

Part 2 - continued from Part 1

Wednesday, September 22nd (continued)

Alta Lakes

Continuing north past the junction to Ophir and the scenic overlook, I found the right-hand turn-off to Alta Lakes. The signage makes it clear the road in not suitable for trailers and large vehicles. In fact the very first section is a narrow ascent along the face of a drop-off. Shortly thereafter one is cautioned that the first couple of miles pass through private land. After that I noticed most of the side roads were blocked off with No Camping signs to allow vegetation to recover.

When the road passed though the old minding town of Alta I stopped for a few photos and to let the vehicles that had been behind to go around. The road from there to the lakes was uneven and full of pot holes. About a quarter mile farther up is the turn-off for Gold King Basin (more on that later.)

I didn't know what to expect for camping and was a little apprehensive - Would there be space? Would it be too crowded? Would it be a pleasant spot or a dry lakebed? Google Maps said "campground (dispersed)" and for some reason I hadn't thought to check the USFS website.  (Note: the icon for the campground is in the wrong location. It's placed where Alta township is located instead of along the south side of the larger of the lakes.)

It turned out to be what I would call a "primitive campground" and not dispersed camping, at all. There are approximately 20 campsites; about half of those are walk-in tent sites. There are portable toilets at each end of the rocky road. There is no fee; first-come, first-serve. I got there about 3pm and was able to find a nice spot, though it had no view of the pretty lake. (Note: at the fork in the road the sign shows camping to the left and no camping to the right. Actually sites #1 and #2 are to the right.)

If you take the right fork you cross a little causeway to the day-use area on the north side of the larger lake. The road continues on for a short ways to the other lakes, but I did not go up that way this time.

Tonight's campsite at the top of a slight rise with a bit of a view of the mountains.

After setting up camp I made the acquaintance of Joe & Melinda tent-camping across the road. They had come here many times and pointed out that you could camp right at the lakeshore years ago. The old campground road and those sites were closed off to protect the lake from the pollution humans bring with themselves. A new "road" was put in and new sites created. These new sites are not the large, level, gravel sites one finds in the newer campgrounds, rather cleared areas squeezed in where they could, though there are a few suitable for small groups with multiple vehicles. Most give one a little space to one's neighbor. Joe is also a Canon photographer and we had a nice discussion of landscape and wildlife photography.

As soon as I set up camp I walked down to the lake to admire this view.

Joe had mentioned how great the sunset was the night before so I walked down to the lake with my camera. There were no clouds so I didn't know what kind of sunset there would be, but the golden colors on the mountain across the lake was magical.

Golden Hour when the sun is close to the horizon casting golden light across the land.

The last little flare of sunlight is crimson on Palmyra Peak.

Thursday, September 23rd

Alta Lakes (continued)

On one of my trips down to the lake the evening before I'd talked to a young couple that were camped in a spot with an amazing view of the lake. They said they were leaving in the morning if I wanted their spot. I saw them leave, but by the time I lowered my roof and drove over, someone else was already there. Rats! He said he'd been waiting days for that particular spot as it was the best in the campground. Good for him, I guess. He also said he had to leave the next morning, so maybe tomorrow.

Joe and Melinda were packing up and suggested I take their site as it had sun for my solar panels and was closer to the lake. This is what I did. They said the sun was only good until early afternoon, so I deployed my auxiliary solar panel to take full advantage.

It may look like this site has more trees than yesterday's, but this site is more open to the south.
You can't see from this angle, but the lake is beyond the trees and can be seen from my chair.

I was very lazy this day mostly sitting in my Strongback camp chair looking at that part of the lake I could see, listening to the songbirds, and reading my novel. It was great! Oh, I did walk down to the lake a time or two and tried to photograph dragonflies with no success. As the day progressed clouds began moving in, but I was able to fully charge my batteries, nonetheless.

Come evening I went down to the lakeshore to see what kind of sunset we'd have with clouds. As the sun went below the horizon it threw pink light upon the mountains, which was gorgeous - the photo hardly does it justice. There was also a bit of traditional sunset to the west through the silhouets of the trees.

The mountains were colorfully lit by reflections from the clouds.

An actual sunset tonight.

Friday, September 24th

Alta Lakes (continued)

Finally I was able to claim the excellent campsite with a full view of the lake and mountains, plus lots of sun for my solar panels. I moved, set up, and enjoyed the view. I took a walk around the lake and took some photos.

My new perfectly located campsite.

View of my campsite from across the lake.

A Mountain Chickadee

A gorgeous view of Bald Mountain and a tiny island.

I enjoyed my view much of the day, occasionally walking down the the lakeshore. I was finally able to get photos of one of the dragonflies, and a damselfly, that had been flying around. I also was able to photograph a butterfly and a Killdeer that had been hanging around at lakeside.

The Blue Dashers are almost always in motion and impossible to photograph. I kept watching this one until he perched then crept up and took lots of shots with my telephoto lens. I'm extremely happy to have such a clear image of this dynamic creature!

There were several Bluet damselflies all along the lakeshore.

There were a number of butterflies active this afternoon.

This Killdeer hung around the lakeshore below my campsite all day.

Another perspective of my campsite with the lake and mountains in the background.

I took the drone up for a panorama of the area and a few stills. I discovered later, when once I was able to expand the photo that there was another lake just north of the one where I camped. Something to explore next time.

An aerial view of Bald Mountain with Telluride just behind the ridge.
If you look closely at the larger version you might see the airport on the mesa on the left.

An aerial photo of Sunshine Mountain with the Alta townsite in the foreground.

A 180º aerial panorama of the lake, Palmyra Peak, and Silver Mountain.
Be sure to click on the photo to see a larger version.

I strongly recomment you click the Full Screen icon in the upper right corner!

My campsite neighbor, Derrick from Phoenix, was tent camping out of a classic Jeep Wagoneer and had been taking day-trips. He told me he'd just driven over Ophir Pass, looping back via Ouray. He said the aspen along US-550 were at peak color. I was surprised. I'd seen them beginning to turn, but was adamant they were at peak. He also told me the weather forecast was for rain on Sunday. Hmmm, maybe I should move my departure up by a day so I could drive down US-550 in good weather?

There is one downside to this campground - traffic comprised of people looking for a campsite. I'd noticed a number of vehicles Thursday afternoon/evening. Most of those seemed to find some sort of campsite. Friday afternoon, however, was a parade of trucks and jeeps and cars. And most had to turn around and drive back out, doubling the number that passed my camp. Can't really blame the people for wanting to camp there, but as it's an un-hosted, no-fee campground there is no one to put up a "campground full" sign at the entrance.

A last look at the lake. Click to get a larger view of this merger of two separate photos.

It was another gorgeous evening. No sunset, per se', but lovely light reflecting on the mountains. Refer to the photos, above, if you wish.

Saturday, September 25th

Alta Lakes (continued)

A beautiful morning greeted me upon rising. The lake was calm and there were a few folk fishing, though I never saw anyone actually catch a fish the entire time I was there. Once I was up I broke my fast and had my coffee sitting outside in the sun. I sent a weather forecast request via my inReach satellite communicator. When it came in, it confirmed Derrick's news - rain was expected on Sunday. In fact, according to the new forecast, there was a good chance moderate rain would move in as early as 5pm this very afternoon. OK, that settled it. As wonderful as this site was, I'd break camp and head for the aspen on the other side of the mountain. I wouldn't pass up a chance for peak color especially as I'd not expected it at all this trip.

Despite my resolve, I was slow packing up and getting gone. I also took a detour. Looking at the map I'd noticed a 4WD road running south to Gold King Basin. I'd asked Derrick the day before if it was worth checking out and he'd replied that it was. Coming up I'd noticed the sign pointing toward Gold King Basin. The road is about 300 yards from the campground.

Gold King Basin

The first short leg is through dense evergreens. There is a fancy, summer home where it dog-legs up the un-forested basin. The road from here is steep, rocky, and high-clearance is needed. There are a number of spots for dispersed camping and the views are spectacular. I suspect a few folks who were unable to find spots in the campground were able to camp along here. There is a small clear pond. I didn't drive to the end of the trail, but stopped for photos above the lake and turned around.

A three exposure panorama of Gold King Basin. Click for larger version.

Alta Lakes Road

I also stopped several times on my way down the road for photos of the amazing views of Sunshine Mountain, Lizard Head, and the colorful aspen. The light was not ideal for photos, so they cannot quite convey what my eyes saw that morning.

A grove of aspen rapidly changing into their autumn colors.
Just to the left of the peak of Sunshine Mountain you can see Lizard Head Peak.

A bit farther down the road the view opened up exposing more of the mountainside, but the perspective is such that Lizard Head Peak has dropped below the horizon.
If you look below the cliffs you can see the cut of the highway across the middle of the photo.

Now on to see the autumn colors down US-550, the "Million Dollar Highway" as it's called.

Continued in Part 3