San Juan Mountains, CO - Sept 2021: Part 1

September 20 - 25, 2021

My goal after my last trip was to install a second 100W solar panel on the camper roof, then test it out on a trip after Labor Day - in the hopes there would be fewer folks competing for camping when the kids were back in school. Weather pushed it a week further along. I wasn't going to worry about it being early for autumn color, either. I thought I'd go up into the western portions of the San Juan Mountains of Colorado to both familiar and new locations.

Part 1 of 3

Monday, September 20th

I got a good start in the morning. And headed up NM-528 to US-550 north. I was delighted to discover the Chamisa (aka Rabbitbrush) along the highway, all across the Colorado Plateau, was in full bloom. I remembered it blooming the first weeks of October, so it seemed early to me this year. I took my usual "bypass" on the BIA routes to avoid the Bloomfield-Farmington-Shiprock traffic and then up US-491 to Cortez where I re-fueled. 

Scotch Creek

I drove north on CO-145 hoping to find a favorite campsite on Scotch Creek available. I first stumbled upon the site the first year I had my camper (post) and stayed there again a couple years later (post).

It is just under a quarter-mile off the highway, up a narrow rocky trail. It is far enough up the canyon, though, that you rarely hear traffic along the state highway. With an ATV, or such, you theoretically can drive all the way over the mountain to US-550 near Purgatory Ski Area. Usually only a few vehicles pass along the road which is so rocky and bumpy that they go slowly and kick up no dust.

Campsite in the late afternoon sun. You can see the stump of the tree that used to precariously lean over the campsite.

Last time I camped there I was slightly concerned about a couple tall evergreens that leaned over the site somewhat precariously. Since then they were removed making the site a little sunnier (good for the solar panels) and a bit safer. The wildflowers were not blooming this time of year and only a few aspen had the slightest tinge of yellow. The wild rose hips were brilliant red and shiny. It may not be the most beautiful spot ever, but the creek keeps up its end of the conversation and the narrow canyon walls are interesting.

Tuesday, September 21st

Scotch Creek (continued)

I decided to stay another night in this tranquil site. It was 27º in the morning so I didn't rush outside, but sat in the warm camper drinking coffee and reading an interesting novel I was mid-way through. Once it warmed up a bit, I walked along the road enjoying the scenery. A downside for longterm camping is that there are no trails to explore, so you're confined to the rocky road. But I was able to keep myself entertained.

Here are two photos showing the signs at the entrance off the highway.

My campsite in better light.

An aerial view looking up the canyon (east.)

An aerial view of my campsite.

Rocky road.

Up the canyon a short ways.

Wednesday, September 22nd - Autumnal Equinox

Scotch Creek (continued)

A repeat of the previous cold morning. I packed up and drove out late morning. I headed up the highway toward Rico and Telluride. I stopped along the highway before Rico, though, as I saw a marshy area next to the Dolores River that looked like it might have dragonflies. I did find Black Meadowhowks and Northern (or perhaps Boreal) Bluet damselflies.

Looking across the marsh next to the Dolores River south of Rico.

Black Meadowhawk dragonfly

Bolam Pass Road

When I'd done my "research" for this trip, I'd noticed a road north of Rico that went up a canyon toward Bolam Pass, CR-578. I'd never been that way, so thought I'd check it out for scenery and dispersed campsites. The road ran along (mostly above) Barlow Creek. 

There were nice views and the road was good gravel for the first 2-3/4 miles. Once it crossed the creek, however, it became one of those narrow San Juan Mountains rocky trails that are uncomfortable to drive in a highway vehicle. I turned around once I determined it unlikely to unveil any campsites anytime soon.

This is as far up the canyon as I drove. The road was extremely rocky and no fun to drive.

I returned to the creek crossing (a culvert) and parked at a nice spot for lunch. This was the one good-looking dispersed site on the road. The lower part next to the creek was not at all level, but there was a somewhat level place to park your camper or pitch your tent back in the trees. As it was on the north slope it wouldn't get enough sun for my solar panels, but might be very pleasant for others or as a single night stop-over. I should have taken a photo, but it didn't occur to me at the time.

I found this butterfly after I had lunch.

Some of the small aspen groves were beginning to turn, so I took a few photos on my way back to the highway. I'll only show you one, as they all turned out to be only a slightly different perspective of the same view.

On my way back to the highway I stopped for this photo.

I turned north, again, with my mind's eye on Alta Lakes. I'd seen the Alta Lakes turn-off south of Telluride, near the Sunshine Campground, but never had heard anything about it or explored there. It wasn't until after I did my mining town video tour a couple years ago that I was researching for that post that I discovered there a ghost town there. The map also showed there was a "dispersed campground" at the lakes. This was my destination. 

I stopped briefly at Trout Lake as a few groves were starting to turn and the mountains always make for a dramatic background.

Make sure you click the photo to see a larger version. I stitched together multiple exposures to create this panorama of the lake and mountains. Taken from the shoulder of the highway.

A gorgeous morning to be out on the lake - what a beautiful scene.

Back on the highway. Next stop is Alta Lakes and whatever that my bring!

Continued in Part 2