San Rafael Swell, UT - May 2024: Part 2

In Search of the San Rafael Swell

Part 2 of 3

This adventure began in Part 1

Click on any photo for a larger version—highly recommended

May 18th (continued)

The Hondu and Tomsich Butte

The road drops into the canyon where there is a fork. Reds Canyon Loop Road continues to the right. A sign points to the left for The Hondu (arch). This is where I wanted to go.

Tomsich Butte (pronounced Tom-sick, apparently) is infamous for its post WWII uranium mines. It didn't take long until I saw evidence of this. I read that all these claims are still active, but no one has operated the mines in a very long time. [When preparing this blog I was looking at a USGS topo map layer on CalTopo. Curiously, they must have scanned an actual map as it had hand-drawn additions. There were "Y" shaped symbols labelled with the word "adits". Looking this up I learned that is the term for the horizontal tunnels driven into the face of a mine to access the minerals.]

Uranium mines

A closer view showing the mine apparatus and adits

I was curious about this half-buried room; learned it was the old powder magazine

I continued along and soon came out into a broad flood plain dotted with large cottonwood trees and shrubs. The views of the spectacular cliffs and bluffs were all around—fantastic. I was very glad I'd left Hidden Splendor early and came here. There was one SUV-style jeep parked near a mine, but as I drove around looking for a campsite I saw no one else at all.

The Hondu (arch)

Passing the info kiosk and going straight, the road winds between trees and comes to a dead end at Muddy Creek. This looked like a great, shady place to camp, but it also seemed a little closed in to me especially as I wanted big views all around me. I turned around and explored farther, both west and east with what I recollected from the satellite map in mind.

There was a nice site along the road to the west, near the creek which, by the way, runs in a fairly deep narrow channel in the valley. I followed the road a bit farther, but it got narrow and possibly technical. I backtracked and headed out the east end of the road which ran though an area of red dirt. There were side roads leading to cottonwoods where others had camped, but none were calling to me. The road ends in a parking area for the Muddy Creek Trail. The trail leads to Hidden Splendor. In times of high water people float down; in times of low water they hike. It's about 16 miles long.

I drove back to the first road beyond the entrance and found a nice site next to a cottonwood with a commanding view all around. Excellent! I could have the roof-mounted solar cells in the sun, while I relaxed in the shade of the trees. Oh, yeah! It was very warm, but not as hot as the day before.

My campsite

I mostly sat in the shade enjoying the view. A few times someone would drive by in an ATV and stop at the creek for a while. I was glad I hadn't camped right there. Clouds started moving in during the afternoon. This was in line with the Future Radar forecast I'd seen on The Weather Channel before I left home. If that was accurate the clouds would leave tomorrow. 

I walked up to the mines I'd seen on my drive in for a closer viewing. I also read the sign put up by the historic preservation commission, which is how I learned how to pronounce Tomsich and that the little half buried building was the mining powder magazine.

The sun flashed and reflected off this rock which I'm assuming made of gypsum crystals

Along the base of Tomsich Butte

Nakedstem Sunray

Information sign (you might be able to read it if you click it)

I sent up the drone to get a spherical panorama, which turned out very good, though I did have to turn up the contrast due to the clouds. Be sure to view it full screen by clicking the symbol to the right of "INFO" or use the Direct Link

When I previewed the image on my laptop I noticed a rough road leading up to a bench midway up Tomsich Butte. That would be a good walk in the morning. I also noticed the grasses grew in circular colonies—apparently they spread out from a center.

Another view of my campsite showing the shade trees

Muddy Creek

Last of the day's blue sky as seen from my campsite

It was overcast by evening so no sunset to photograph.

Sunday, May 19th

The Hondu and Tomsich Butte (continued)

First thing in the morning I heard the whinny calls of a wild horse. I speculate that a stallion was calling to his mares to finish drinking from the creek and get moving. Cool to hear.

Start of a beautiful day

There wasn't much doubt in my mind that I would spend the day and another night here in this beautiful spot. The morning was gorgeous. I tried to photograph some of the wildlife.

A not so blue bluebird

Desert Cottontail

Audubon's Warbler

About 10am I set out to explore up the old road up to the butte. As I was walking along the road a van with two young women stopped to wish me a "good morning". They were with a group that was going to kayak down the creek to Hidden Splendor as soon as the rest caught up after dropping off their shuttle vehicles. They were pretty excited about it all and it did sound like fun. They staged and launched from the end of the road where I had wisely not set up my camp.

As I started up the old road I noticed the campsite I'd seen the day before was occupied, though they were packing up. The "road" is a designated route, but had deteriorated enough I doubt even an ATV could make it up. A trail bike had as I followed its tracks all the way up. The considerate rider did stay on the road and didn't wander off into native soil.

Left is the lower road near the referenced campsite and Muddy Creek;
on the right is the trail up the butte

Looking back toward the Hondu

Looking upstream toward the next valley

This is an interesting and relatively easy climb up through many different geological zones (if that's the right term.) I especially marveled at all the rounded cobble-sized stones, evidence of long ago rivers. And the views were great which I tried to capture with my camera.

The road split and I followed the eastern branch that lead around the "front" side of the butte. I was hoping I'd be able to spy the mines I'd seen yesterday as I thought it would be fun to photograph them from above, too. Indeed the road did pass above them and I was able to walk out to a point to get a good view. The road began to disappear beyond here, so I was satisfied. My workout app showed I'd climbed 264 feet (and when I got back to camp: 1.96 miles.)

Looking southerly along the line of bluffs toward Hidden Splendor

Looking down at the uranium mines

Another view from the ledge showing the valley and what I named the "stubby mitten" butte;
in the foreground was a lump of orange mineral

On the way back down the trail I photographed this "natural concrete"

The clouds persisted though the day, but at least it wasn't overcast. I relaxed in camp with short walks to look around and even got in a short nap. Interestingly, there were fewer tourists in their ATVs than yesterday. By late afternoon some of the clouds began to look threatening and I wondered if there might be a rain storm, but I was spared anything more than a sprinkle. It partially cleared toward evening.

Dark clouds behind the "stubby mitten"

One bloom today; 25 coming soon

I don't think I've shown you this view yet; I was intrigued by the pinnacle on top

I also thought to myself that it was peculiar that Hidden Splendor, at the dead end of a long difficult road, was full of campers, while this gorgeous spot on an easy road was hardly visited. Maybe this was the place that was lightly visited according to the articles I'd read.

Sunset

There wasn't a classical sunset with reds and oranges, but the sky was absolutely beautiful as the sun passed behind the cliffs. This was emphasized by the rise of the almost full moon.

Moon over the stubby mitten

Monday, May 20th

The Hondu and Tomsich Butte (continued)

This morning I decided to take a short walk along the road to the west, upstream, and check out the area beyond where I turned around due to the sketchy road on Saturday. I walked up the road noting the gap between the rocks could be negotiated by a less than full size vehicle; the sides of the rocks were black with rubber, however. There was a dip or two that would take extra care, but was passable.

The next "valley" upstream

The next "valley" looked much the same as where I had been staying, though I liked my views better. Still, if the main valley was too full, this might be an option. I discovered a couple in a Lexus SUV with a rooftop tent camped there with their big friendly dog. They'd made it through without any big problems. They were interesting to talk to. They mentioned the road didn't go much farther so I wished them a good trip and headed back to my camp after taking a photo of the valley.

Brown-headed Cowbird

This had been a great place to camp. I loved sitting under the cottonwood trees and admiring the tall sandstone bluffs all around, but it was time to break camp and head out. First I'd explore the rest of Reds Canyon Loop Road, then begin the journey home.

Continued in Part 3