San Rafael Swell, UT - May 2024: Part 1

In Search of the San Rafael Swell

Part 1 of 3

May 16 - 21, 2004

When I was restless in the midst of winter I began dreaming of a trip to the San Rafael Swell in Utah. I had been there briefly twice before, but knew there was a vast area I'd not explored. 

Wikipedia excerpt: The San Rafael Swell is a large geologic feature located in south-central Utah, about 16 miles west of Green River. The San Rafael Swell, measuring approximately 75 by 40 miles, consists of a giant dome-shaped anticline of sandstone, shale, and limestone that was pushed up 60–40 million years ago. Since that time, infrequent but powerful flash floods have eroded the sedimentary rocks into numerous valleys, canyons, gorges, mesas, buttes, and badlands. The swell is part of the Colorado Plateau physiographic region.

I was running behind on my spring schedule. I'd only finished my shakedown trip on May 10th and knew both that the temperatures would soon be shooting up in Utah and that I wanted to get there and back before the week of Memorial Day, with its crowds taking advantage of a holiday.

I talked to the local battery specialist about increasing capacity in my battery bank and we agreed adding a third battery in parallel was the most expeditious way to go. They had the same model as my other two in stock, so I arranged to pick it up on Tuesday. There was no room in the battery compartment, but as AGM batteries need no venting or special requirements I planned to place it in the space beneath my roll-over sofa next to the battery compartment. I'll spare you the details, but I got the battery installed, fastened down, wired that same day. "OK," sez I, "I'll take one day to pack-up and head out on Thursday." Being retired I have the luxury of avoiding weekends, but this time I'd forge ahead and hope for the best, after all the articles I'd read, and videos I'd watched, remarked how few folks visited the Swell. Spoilers: this is no longer the case, though nothing like the crowds at the national parks.

Click on any photo to view a larger version - highly recommended.

Thursday, May 16th

Heading Out

I didn't intend to drive all the way in one day, but would stop mid-journey to camp the first night. I debated a couple of alternatives, but only narrowed it down slightly before my late morning departure. I had intended to leave a bit earlier, but didn't make it. I took my usual route out US-550, then across Navajo lands. I had to stop for construction twice on US-64 west of Shiprock as they are finally going to upgrade that narrow, rough highway. Hooray! I also took my usual short-cut up from Red Mesa and then onto west UT-95 where they are replacing at least two of the bridges, but at least by this time of day the workers were gone, though the one-lane stretches were controlled by traffic lights.

On the satellite maps I had noticed a couple dirt roads I'd never driven. They are off the highway at the north end of Cedar Mesa. They might lead to possible dispersed campsites. One in particular looked interesting as it had a side road above a small canyon. But I thought I'd check one of my very favorite sites first in case it was available.

North Mule Canyon

I love the little site in North Mule Canyon and luck was in my favor. I'd stay there and check out the other sites for a possible future trip tomorrow. The creek was pretty low for so early in the season, so I guess the area had a dry winter. The banks were well trampled by cattle, too, which was disappointing. Still, a lovely site in a shallow sandstone canyon, ideal to get out of the worst of the wind. The cottonwoods were green and a few wildflowers were blooming. The birds and frogs were singing—especially the frogs!

My delightful campsite in the canyon

Perky Sue wildflowers just below the cliff

One of the penstemons growing right out of the cliff

This Rock Wren had been singing all afternoon

Friday, May 17th

North Mule Canyon (continued)

Before breaking camp I walked around above the canyon to photograph flowers and/or critters. Not nearly as many flowers as on previous stays and no good opportunities for wildlife, either. A beautiful morning even so.

Looking down on my campsite from the canyon rim

I loved how the long spines seemed to be almost glowing in the light

Not as many primroses as usual; maybe it was early in the season

The cacti were beginning to bloom

Dirt Road Exploration

I headed west on the highway and looked for the dirt road I'd spied on the satellite map. I found the turn-off and the road was in very good condition as it cut across Cedar Mesa. It went fairly straight through the piñon and juniper. I found the side road that I'd spied. It was narrow and uneven, but passible without major issues. 

I  came to the clearing I'd spotted on the satellite map. There were a couple of cars and several tents already there. I'm glad I hadn't driven here last evening. I didn't see anyone around. They were probably out exploring. There were interesting sandstone walls in the background, maybe they were climbing.

The road got bad at that point though the map shows it continues to a spring, but I turned around. When I got back to the "main" road I turned back west as my satellite review indicated it would make a big curve and re-connect with the highway. I drove less than a hundred feet when the road dipped down to cross a small canyon feature. To my astonishment there were tall mature Ponderosa pines and other forest greenery. A small spur led upstream where I could see several vehicles, campers and tents under the canopy. What an amazing campsite! I would remember this spot and hope that sometime in the future I could find it available.

The road climbed up onto a ridge as it headed back to the highway. I passed several places that would make nice dispersed campsites, some with views. Another good area to keep in mind.

Highway to the Swell

Back on UT-95 I made good time west and north across the rest of the mesa, then up along White Canyon, and on to Glen Canyon. The highway to Hite is completely closed off now. Last year you could drive in to where the recreational facilities and ranger station are located. All the attractions have been closed for years, of course, as there is no lake within sight.

I stopped at Hanksville to fill up and turned north on UT-24 toward Goblin Valley State Park. As you drive up the highway you can see the San Rafael Reef off to the west parallel to the road. It's less than 20 miles to the junction where I drove west, still on pavement.

San Rafael Reef

I stopped at an overlook to get a photo of the break in the reef where the entrance to the Swell lies. My first new exploration would be to take the Behind the Reef Road that heads south from Temple Mountain Road, the main way in from the east. But first I stopped at one of the BLM campgrounds to air down my tires as I knew there would be plenty of rocky roads ahead. The Temple Mountain Townsite Campground had a nice parking area next to a vault toilet to accomplish this task.

In the center you can see the canyon where the road crosses into the Swell

Behind the Reef Road

The junction is very close to the campground. It is narrow and, sure enough, very rocky in places. There seemed to be a number of dispersed camping areas in the first mile or so. Nothing particularly special about them—homebase for farther explorations, I guess. It was hot and windy. Everyone's tents were flapping in the sun.

Looking toward the reef from Behind the Reef Road

It was a scenic road with the tall, white reef to the east as it curves up and down and around. The lands to the west are more open. I stopped many times for photos, but only a few looked interesting enough to post. Seems it's one of those places that's better seen in person.

Continuing south on Behind the Reef Road

When I was planing my trip I noted that there were two major canyon trailheads along the road before it turned into more of an ATV trail. I thought I'd camp at the second and explore the canyon on foot, but as the road bumped it's way south I was having second thoughts. It was so hot and windy and there was no cover. I came to Crack Canyon and there were two large van RVs parked. I don't know if they were camped or not, but the occupants were up in the canyon I assume. At this point I decided to abandon my plan and not continue on to Chute Canyon. I'm sure the canyons are amazing, but I suspect beyond this old man's abilities to hike, and didn't think the camping would be any more attractive there, than here. It was still very early in the afternoon, so I decided to turn around and proceed to my second planned destination, Hidden Splendor and Muddy Creek.

Entrance to Crack Canyon

Temple Mountain Road

I turned northwest once I got back to the main road heading into the interior. I was astonished at just how many camp trailers and RVs were at dispersed sites along the road. The hills were thick with campers and this continued for several miles. Some sites had nice views, but most were chosen for expedience, I'm guessing. I also surmise that folks were just setting up a home base to explore the Swell via ATV or Jeep. It slowly thinned out and I did see a couple nice sites near the road with great views of Temple Mountain.

Temple Mountain and road

As I continued into the Swell the terrain moderated into more of a rolling prairie. I hadn't really noted this so much before. My thought is that as the land was pushed up the most interesting geological activity was at the margins. I passed the cut-off that leads north to I-80.

Temple Mountain Road

I took the road heading southwest, McKay Flat Road, aka South Temple Junction. Crossing one of the large flats I came across a small herd of the renowned wild horses. I stopped well in advance as I didn't know how skittish they'd be and took a photo of three right beside the road with my long lens. Good thing as they ran off when the truck got close. There were six or eight grazing about 50 yards off the road to the left and they paid no attention to me as I drove by. I suspect they are used to traffic, but don't want anyone too close.

Wild horses next to the road

Hidden Splendor

Just before the road bends to the northwest is the turn-off to the Hidden Splendor Mine and Muddy Creek Wilderness. The road drops down below the mesa and is a good, sandy road for a number of miles. There are great views off to the east, though the clouds and haze were not ideal for photos. I spent a little extra time processing the photo below to compensate best I could.

View easterly from the road to Hidden Splendor

Soon the road became rocky and rough. Nothing technical, but just slow going over the sheets of rock, twists & turns, ups & downs. I would recommend high clearance, though I saw that a number of passenger vehicle were able to make it through.

First glimpse of my destination; Muddy Creek is at the foot of those red bluffs.

I had come here in 2016 for a SUWA meet-up and remembered spectacular cliff views and that I'd camped beside an old airstrip. I remembered that some of the folks who had arrived at the location before I had, set up in a much better campsite along the edge of the bench. From there the road dropped down to Muddy Creek. When I walked down, and subsequently up, the road it seemed it would be very difficult for a vehicle. The group took a glorious hike down the Muddy Creek bed, but as it had been September the water was very low or below the surface for much of its length.

When I got there this time and crossed the airstrip, the bench-side site was available. It was also just a big flat area, more parking lot than the campsite I'd remembered. I drove to both ends of the airstrip to look for more congenial sites. There was a prettier one at the east end of the airstrip, but there was no way down to the river from there, so I went back to the first spot to set up as it had creek access and I'd planned to take a walk down there in the morning.

Camped on the bench above Muddy Creek

Muddy Creek; looking downstream

I looked down at the dugway (road dug out of the side of the bench.) It leads to the flood plain and after driving all day it looked too roug. I didn't want to tackle it. I could see one white pickup truck parked below, I didn't see a tent or any other signs of a camp. 

I set up in the gusty winds, but at least they kept the heat from being oppressive. I put my camp chair in the shade of my camper and enjoyed gazing at the towering sandstone cliffs. Through the afternoon and into the evening other cars and trucks would drive up near me to check things out. They then turned around to find other campsites. One big black truck with Utah plates set up at the west end of the airstrip and a bit later I heard them firing off pistols (even as late as 9pm, the jerks) I was glad they weren't any closer. One couple looked down at the creek, then drove down to set up their tent below. They didn't seem to have any trouble in their small SUV.

This colony of prickly pear was just beginning to bloom

Another view of camp featuring the tall sandstone bluffs

The winds let up as the sun went down. The sunset wasn't traditionally colorful, but the light though the clouds was beautiful.

Sunset from my campsite

Saturday, May 18th

Hidden Splendor (continued)

My campsite on the edge of the bench

Muddy Creek

It was a pretty morning and after breakfast I walked around the bench. The dugway down to the creek didn't look nearly as intimidating in the morning after I was rested and I almost wished I'd tackled it the afternoon before. I even considered moving camp down below. I sent up the drone to get a panorama of the area, which turned out to be spectacular—be sure you check that out in full-screen mode. Direct Link

It started to warm quickly and I just wasn't feeling it here. I made the sudden decision to bail rather than stay the day. I broke camp and headed back up the road, toward my next planned destination, and hoped for a better campsite. On the way out I stopped for a photo or two. I also saw a big pickup truck parked on the road headed south. I thought it was a strange place to stop as there was no trail or campsite around. As I got closer I noticed its left front wheel was pointed down the road, but the right front was pointed off to the right. Ouch.

Looking back toward Hidden Splendor

A view from the road heading out

Reds Canyon Loop Road

Back at the junction and I turned left toward Reds Canyon (no apostrophe.) At that point the road was still up on the flats, but as I drove along I began to see sandstone cliffs in the distance. As I got closer I tried to identify my destination, Tomsich Butte, but was not familiar enough with the territory to figure it out. Now, I can easily see it in the photo below.

Heading toward Reds Canyon and Tomsich Butte

Getting closer: see the low red butte in the middle? You'll see it again

The road dramatically dropped down into the canyon. I took lots of photos, but again, they are not representative of what you see when you are there. The overhanging rocks, etc., just blend into the background. At the bottom, the road forks—the loop continues to the right. A sign points to the left for The Hondu (arch).

Hard to see in this flat photo, but the road is that shelf to the middle-upper left

Continue on to Part 2 for The Hondu and Tomsich Butte