Season Finale, NM & AZ - October 2021: Part 2

Part 2 of 3 - The Gila River

Continued from Part 1

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October 19th (continued)

Mogollon Box Day Use Area on the Gila River

As I previously mentioned, last winter I was pouring over my maps to look for places to visit as a first of the season trip. For an early trip I was looking at southern sites that would be warmer than northern locations. I found a spot that was then labeled as Gila Box Recreation Area on Google Maps. Although it was listed as day use, the reviewers commented that it was great for camping. Google now labels it as Box Canyon Day Use Area which is closer to the name USFS uses, Mogollon Box Day Use Area, referring to Mogollon Creek on the north boundary of the area. For anyone not familiar with the southwest US: Mogollon is locally pronounced as muggy-own and Gila as he-la.

I had been undecided on which of these Gila River spots I'd go to first. As it was getting later in the afternoon I decided not to try Turkey Creek Road as the USFS directions warned of 8.5 miles of rough dirt road requiring high clearance and heavy duty tires. Sounded like that might take too long with night approaching.

I turned east onto NM-211 at the "town" of Cliff. A little less than a mile in, you bear left onto NM-293, a nice 2-lane paved road. Note that there are absolutely no directional signs for the recreation area. I had to pull over to check my map to reassure myself I was going the right direction. Also note, the official USFS Gila National Forest map does not show the recreation site, but does show the road. Approximately 5 miles from the junction the pavement ends, but you keep going. The gravel road is good, but watch out for the cattle guards as one of them has quite a drop off on the other side. It was getting late in the day, so I was hoping there would be space available to camp.

There was a small road sign, "Entering National Forest Land", which was reassuring as it was the only indication on the whole route that I was on the right path. There is a sharp turn before the road descends into the river valley.

This small road sign is the only indication along the whole road that there might be something interesting ahead.
Note the cliffs on the left & the two hills on the right.

I confess I was shocked at what I found. Looking at the satellite view on Google Maps the site looks wide open with the network of roads easily seen and very little vegetation. The image must have been taken in the dead of winter when all the leaves had fallen from the trees, as the whole place is heavily forested with cottonwoods and other tall trees. The undergrowth was so tall you could not see beyond the road side in most places. Frankly, I found it a little claustrophobic at first and the roads were a labyrinth. There are, however, very nice vault toilets and animal-proof trash receptacles. As I became accustomed, I began to like this area. I suspect it is quite popular in the warm months with its plentiful shade and water to play in.

There are many potential camp sites in the area, some more open than others and very pleasant. None of the sites are close to the river. There is a gravel bed that I thought was the high water course for the Gila River between the camping area and flowing water.

As seen in the photo above, the cliffs viewed from near my campsite.

As seen above, the hills across the river, as seen from near my campsite.

I seemed to be the only one camped in the entire area. There was a car which I guessed brought hikers. It left about dark. Some time after I'd gone to bed I heard an engine and headlights swept across my site; someone coming in for the night?

My campsite, sheltered by the large cottonwoods and sycamores.
You can just make out the sunlit hills behind me.

The wind came up that night. I'd chosen my spot well and was sheltered by the trees, but leaves and twigs would drop with a clink on my aluminum roof.

Wednesday, October 20

Mogollon Box (continued)

It was chilly in the morning, but after coffee I set out to explore a bit. I had seen approximately where the Gila River was situated the evening before, but hadn't walked down to it. I had to walk a couple hundred feet across sand and river rock. I assumed at the time that this was the flood zone of the Gila, but careful examination of satellite images later at home showed this to actually be the dry bed of Mogollon Creek. I found the river. It was flowing well, but mostly in the shade. The low temperatures combined with a freshening breeze discouraged me from lingering too long. I took two photos from two vantage points then scurried back to the camper to pack up.

The Gila River

This is where Mogollon Creek would enter the river were it flowing.

What with one thing or another it was close to 11am by the time I drove up out of the park. I stopped as I crested the hill to take one more photo looking back.

A look back at the recreation area and the two hills.

I drove back south on NM-293 to the junction with NM-211. I turned left and drove to the tiny village of Gila. Where the highway comes to a 'T' I turned left on NM-153, this is Turkey Creek Road. You essentially follow this road to the end. After a few miles the pavement turns to gravel and, when it enters forest service land, to dirt. On the maps this is called FS-155, but there are no route signs on the road. Again there are no signs indicating a recreation area or even a destination; only one sign admonishing vehicles to stay on the designated road.

Turkey Creek Road

Once on the dirt road be prepared for the surface to degrade quickly. A high clearance vehicle is required and I was much more comfortable negotiating the loose rock on the steep climbs with four wheel drive engaged. I stopped periodically to admire and/or photograph the view. 

This is a double-wide panorama looking back a the Gila River where I was last night.

There were many bushes with yellow flowers blooming. 

Turkey Creek Road climbing up, up, up.

The drive seemed interminable since I had to go so slowly. (I timed it on the way out and it took only one hour and 15 minutes to go from where the road reaches the parking area to the start of the national forest land.) I was thankful that I had chosen the other camp last evening as it is not a road you want to drive in the dark.

A view to the north of the rugged mountains from along the ridge. Now to descend.

There were several places where I had to come to a stop and inch across wash outs, but there was never any danger of getting stuck or sliding off the road. Still, maybe not for the faint of heart. Also, don't attempt if there is a chance of heavy rain, or it has recently rained heavily. You climb up and descend about 1100 feet on both sides absolute, though I'm sure with the ups and downs the total gain is much higher. I didn't stop and take photos of the descent as I was too busy.

The Gila River is flowing across the valley where you see the trees at the foot of the hills.

I was very happy to finally see the river and recognize the area I'd studied via the satellite images. I took a photo and drove the last section of road, dodging a washed out spot on the steep descent. Now to find a campsite.

Finally, my destination was in sight.

Turkey Creek Recreation Area on the Gila River

I haven't found an official name for this trailhead/camping area. Google labels it prosaically as Turkey Creek Parking Area. USFS provides information and status on the Turkey Creek Trail, but only says "There are no facilities and parking is limited to a few pull-offs along the road." So I've decided to call it the Turkey Creek Recreation Area on the Gila River.

I will spare you the details, but I drove through the riparian area a couple of times looking for the ideal site - next to the river with both sun and shade. There were a few tight squeezes between the trees and branches. I probably picked up a few more scratches along the truck and camper.

Prickly Pear on the rocks along Turkey Creek Road.

A typical view of Turkey Creek Recreation Area

I found a nice big site right on the river. I was able to park in the sun to finish charging the batteries while I sat in my chair in the shade enjoying the river and reading my book. 

My campsite beside the Gila River. 
There was a nice grassy area beyond the truck to set up my chair.

There were myriad butterflies going up and down the river. A few would stop long enough for me to point my camera at them, but few long enough for me to actually get a shot. One of the butterflies that cooperated, a Hoary Comma, is the same species I photographed last month in Rico, Colorado. I was able to image both the dorsal and ventral sides of this individual and you can see with the wings closed it is well camouflaged.

The colorful side of the Comma butterfly.

The camouflaged side of the Comma butterfly.

I was also lucky enough to photograph a Tailed Orange butterfly. I'd never seen one this shape before. Turns out this small butterfly rarely flies this far north and its tail becomes more pronounced in winter.

Tailed Orange butterfly perched upon a cottonwood leaf.

There were at least three species of cottonwood. I'll call them big leaf, little leaf, and narrow leaf. Coyote willows were thick along the river. I noticed the distinctive leaves of the Arizona Sycamore. Some of the trees were beginning to show color. A few were well along. A few juniper had encroached from the surrounding dry hills where they and piñon rule. Of course there were a number of bushes and other plants that I have no identification to pass along.

It was a warm afternoon. In fact maybe a bit too warm where I'd set up. I walked down the road to another nice site I almost chose and it was cool in the shade. Though I figured by the time I moved it would cool down where I was now, but maybe I'd move tomorrow. Yep, it did cool down and I enjoyed a very pleasant evening.

Thursday, October 21

Gila River (continued)

Though it had been warm yesterday afternoon, it was pretty chilly this morning. So I was slow getting going. Once I did I made a sandwich and gathered my few supplies to carry in my daypack before I broke camp. I drove the short distance to the clearing just before my new site so the panels would get full sun all day while I took a hike up the river.

My campsite will be under those trees just ahead of my truck.

There is no consistent trail along the river bank, so I started up one of the roads through the riparian area. I found a place where vehicles had crossed the river. I don't think stock vehicles would make it. You'd need an ATV with big tires and super high clearance. This isn't the Turkey Creek trail, per sé, but may lead to it. USFS says the actual trail begins 1.3 miles upstream. In my photo, what looks like a large dark rock on the other side is actually mud deformed by tire tracks.

A ford across the Gila. Not for stock highway vehicles.

Appropriately enough, I found turkey tracks hardened in the mud. Later on I accidentally flushed a rafter of Wild Turkey from a small tree along the road. I think they were more startled than I was - but not by much!

Modern dinosaur tracks

Turkey Creek Trail

The riparian road led back to the "main" road. Turkey Creek Road is permanently blocked at 33.0670, -108.4989 by large boulders purposely placed. Within 50 feet, half of the road was washed into the river and the trail becomes single track which explains why they blocked the road. Surprisingly, after 50 yards or so the road is back. Apparently it used to continue on. I believe there is zero chance the washed out section will be rebuilt.

I was taken by a small blue juniper tree beside the road. I've seen blue spruce, I have two in my yard, but never a blue juniper. I processed the photo to match as closely as possible what my eyes perceived. Research has led me to believe this is an Arizona Cypress. It is a southwestern native that usually grows below 6500' and can reach heights of 35-50 feet. So this is a baby.

Arizona Cypress beside the orphaned section of Turkey Creek Road.

I followed this road and was surprised by there being fresh tire tracks. Where in the heck did they come from? After a quarter mile or so the road curved back to the riverside. There was a gravel bar and I could see that was where the vehicles crossed the river. Apparently they can drive on the other side from the ford I saw before. Very little of this can be discerned by looking at the satellite photos even after the fact. However, I can see remnants of double-track on one side of the river or the other for maybe a mile or so farther upstream on the satellite image.

Nonetheless, that spot was amazing. There was a long, straight stretch of calm water that was reflecting the colorful cottonwoods on the bank and an interesting mountain peak in the background. I must have taken two dozen photos at various angles and exposures, but to someone who hadn't been there, they would all look very similar. I will, therefore, only share one.

A calm stretch of the Gila River

I enjoyed my lunch there and basked in the solitude and beauty before starting back. When I got back to my campsite I sat in my chair overlooking the river in the shade and rehydrated. Read a bit, then simply soaked up the scene, repeatedly. After an hour or so a couple of fishermen came through, asking if I minded them fishing at my site. That was the big excitement of the afternoon LOL.

The two fishermen claimed they had caught fish in the river, but released them.

Before I moved my camper into the shade under the trees and set up my full camp I took the drone up for photography. 

An aerial view of the Gila River winding between the hills.

A spherical panorama of Turkey Creek Recreation Area.

Once I raised the camper top returned to my chair for more relaxing. 

Now, this is the life!

I was surprised I hadn't seen any dragonflies. Seems like this should be a good environment for them. Maybe it was too late in the season. Late in the afternoon a number of Rubyspot damselflies happened by. This common riparian species was easy to detect when the sinking sun lit up the ruby spot on the wings.

American Rubyspot damselfly

It was a very pleasant evening in camp. 

Only the western hillsides are still in the sun.

There was no sunset, but the last of the sun shone on the peak to my east turning it orange.

View from my campsite as the sun sinks slowly in the west.

Friday, October 22

Gila River (continued)

I figured to move on today. I was undecided on where to go or might even start heading home, but I was too restless to stay here another day. I was in no hurry to leave either, so spent most of the morning in this lovely spot.

I finally got packed up and on the road by about 11am. I took a few more photos of the area as I left.

Turkey Creek Road begins here to climb out of the valley.

Looking back down at the camping area. The river makes a horseshoe bend around that small ridge in the medium foreground. My campsites were just on the far side of the ridge.

I took more photos from the road. 

As I was almost to the top of Brushy Canyon I spied these backlit oak leaves.

Enjoy this last view from Turkey Creek Road.

Regarding this portion of the Gila River. If you're traveling through and looking for an overnight stay not too far off the highway with lots of shade, then the Mogollon Box is your logical choice. If you're looking for a destination, would like to camp next to the river, and have a high-clearance vehicle, then consider Turkey Creek Road Recreation Area and its rugged beauty.

Continue to Part 3 - NM to AZ