Alta Lakes, Colorado - September 2022

You can see a larger version of any photo by clicking on it. Then you may use the arrows to move from one photo to another.

September 14 - 20, 2022

After my wonderful Utah expedition in April of this year I was eager for my next trip. Life, however, intervened. It was just one thing after another and I'll spare you the gritty details. My schedule was clear to hit the road after Labor Day and I began preparations for camping in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado. Then I had to delay my departure by several days to let rain storms clear out. OK, now let's go...

Wednesday, September 14th

Angel Peak Scenic Area

My goal for this trip was Alta Lakes, south of Telluride, Colorado. The forecast indicated that one more day was needed for the rain to fully clear out, so I took off late in the afternoon with Angel Peak in northern New Mexico as my destination for the night. It's only about a 2-1/2 hour drive NW on US-550. There were thunderstorms nearby my route and I got to see a double rainbow as I was coming into Cuba. I arrived at Angel Peak near dark and set up at my favorite spot. This is my fourth and shortest stay. Click "Angel Peak Scenic Area" in the location column to the right if you want more story and many more photos.

Thursday, September 15th

I didn't waste any time in the morning. I snapped my obligatory campsite photo and hit the road. 

Angel Peak campsite

I took my usual shortcut across the Navajo agricultural lands to skip the traffic in Bloomfield and Farmington. Email if you want the route details.

Ship Rock

It was a sunny morning and the atmosphere was particularly clear due to yesterday's rains. It was a good morning to photograph Ship Rock, so when I came out on the highway formerly known as 666 I turned south instead of toward Colorado. I took the side road that leads to the air strip, stopping a couple of times on the narrow shoulder for photos. I think this one turned out particularly fine.

Ship Rock on the Navajo Nation

I turned around, headed to Shiprock and filled my gas tank. I drove north into Colorado stopping for tacos in Cortez before heading to Dolores and the San Juans. As I drove up the east fork of the Dolores River it was cloudy and dark, but no rain. I didn't stop for photos as there are plenty from earlier posts if you're interested.

Alta Lakes

I turned off onto Alta Lakes Road (Closed winters). It's nowhere near the worst road I've bumped over, and it's not technical at all, but it's a slow, tiring 45 minute drive. Not suitable for trailers and high clearance is a good idea, though a careful driver would be able to negotiate the road in a passenger car.

At the campground I wasn't surprised my favorite site was already taken, as was the site I considered #2. In looking around for an alternative I couldn't help but notice that a number of the sites had a large mud puddle in the middle of where you'd park your vehicle. Evidence of all the rain in the last several days. I found a site with a dry, level spot for my camper. It was a little closer to the chemical toilets than I'd have preferred, but otherwise wasn't bad and not too awfully far from the lake.

My first night's campsite - you can just see the lake through the trees

After setting up I wandered a bit, took a few photos, then scurried for the camper when a light shower came through. Later I walked through the campground and stopped to talk to the two couples who were camped in my favorite spot. Very nice folks. I asked how long they were staying, if they didn't mind my asking. "We're leaving in the morning," they replied. I expressed a desire to move to their site when they left, which they were fine with, and they told me they'd probably leave around 9:30 in the morning. I asked if anyone else had enquired and metaphorically called "dibs."

Lower Alta Lake with Palmyra Peak in the background

There were wonderful sunset colors on Palmyra Peak and reflected in the lake.

Beautiful color near sundown

The campground was very busy on this Thursday night with lots of folks looking for sites. I think a few people stretched the rules a bit on where it was legit to camp. I certainly ended up with a lot of neighbors and some were not exactly quiet. I learned many campers were here for the Telluride Blues & Brews festival. 

Friday, September 16th.

In last year's Alta Lakes post, I go into much more detail, so read that post, as well, if you are interested in coming to this spectacular location.

Male first year Red Crossbill molting into adult plumage - getting a drink in a puddle

I was able to move my camp to my favorite spot. I love this campsite. It has a commanding view of the lower lake, the surrounding forest, and the dramatic surrounding mountains -- the best view of any of the sites. It is also fairly level and I can park where the sun shines on my rooftop solar panels for much of the day, yet there is shade around the site and trees to enjoy. Sitting in my comfortable chair I can bask in the beautiful view for hours letting all cares of civilization slip away.

The photo below is not from my campsite, but from one of my wanders along the lake.

I loved the tranquil beauty of the shoreline.

That afternoon another FWC pop-up camper, a Hawk model, pulled into the site just past mine. That evening I saw they were building a campfire so I brought them the few pieces of wood that had been left at my site. K & J are from Fresno, and although they have had their camper for a little while, they were on their longest camping trip so far and were stopping at all their bucket-list locations. We had a pleasant conversation about camping and our campers as we enjoyed the campfire.

Saturday, September 17th

Dawn clouds reflecting in the lake

Looking up at my campsite from the lakeshore

Mostly cloudy again this morning, but no rain at least. I spent the morning enjoying the view and jumping up, from time to time, to try (mostly unsuccessfully) to photograph various of the wild birds that were flitting all around.

This little chipmunk paused to allow a photograph

A ubiquitous Junco posed for a moment

Once it warmed up the damselflies came out to bask in the sun.

In the afternoon I hiked up to and around what's called the upper lake, but is really the middle lake. I didn't even realize it was there last year until I saw the spherical panaroma taken by my drone. It was an easy hike, though if you are unacclimated to higher elevations, you might want to take it easy. Alta Lakes is at 11,300 feet elevation. The road to the upper lake is only for residents of the few summer homes and The Observatory lodge (which was apparently rented out to a wedding party this weekend).

The upper (middle) lake

A view of my campsite from across the lower lake (at 70mm)

That evening I met C & B, an interesting young couple from Denver, tent camping from their Jeep in the next site. They'd moved from Maryland within the last two years to be closer to all the wonderful outdoors opportunities we enjoy in the west. We had a delightful conversation about camping sites and scenic locations.

Sunday, September 18th

There was a little color in the dawn sky today.

Early morning light

I tried my hand at more wildlife photography around the campsite with better success than yesterday.

Northern Flicker

Mountain Chickadee

Pine Siskin - there was a whole flock flitting around a tree that had fallen over into the lake

Gray Jays (aka Whiskey Jack) are not shy, but difficult for me to photograph

A Paddle-tailed Darner in an extremely rare moment of repose

I took my M2P up for a short aerial photography session. I took a spherical panorama, but the one I took last year is a bit better, so I'll link it here instead of the new one.

Alta Townsite

In the afternoon I hiked down to the Alta Townsite. (The road to the lake goes right through the townsite, but a hike is much more pleasant endeavor.) I'd seen on my map there is an official trail from the campground to the townsite. I'd also noticed small trails leading off the ridge behind my campsite that I thought might meet up with the actual trail. I walked down one of those and thought I was doing good as it turned in the right direction once off the slope, but then it disappeared. I kept going in the same direction, overland, and after a bit came to the real trail. I recommend you take the official trail all the way.

First glimpse of the townsite from the trail

It is a lovely trail alongside a bit of a running brook. It comes out on the old Boomerang Road (now closed to motor vehicles) just north of the township. I wandered around the ghost town taking photos and admiring the view. Apparently there was not mine here, rather this was where the workers at the Gold King Mine lived. More info just below.

The magnificent view of Sunshine Mountain from Alta Townsite
Lizard Head is on the left; Wilson Peak on the right

Alta Townsite

The hike back up the trail to the campground was again beautiful and I confess to stopping a number of times to catch my breath. The terminus of the trail is just before where the road turns off into the campground. There are a few other trails in the area; the Boomerang trail is suitable for hiking or biking and leads to trails in the Telluride Ski Area.

The trail from the townsite back to the campground

Farther up the trail almost to the campground

Alta Lakes

There were nice colors on the surrounding peaks this evening.

Sunset colors - a two photo composite to give you an extra-wide view

Monday, Sept 19th

I wish I could say I didn't take a bunch of photos of the lake this morning, but I'll spare you all but one of those. I attempted more bird photos, but none of those are worth sharing, either.

A view of the lower lake looking toward the dam

I was in no rush to pack up, even though I was leaving today. Yesterday I'd requested a weather forecast via my inReach satellite communicator, and it indicated that rain was going to move into the mountains, maybe tonight, but certainly by tomorrow. I thought I'd move to one of the sites I'd planned as an alternate for the trip. Either up on the ridge between the two forks of the Dolores River, or down in the valley of the west fork.

On the drive down I noticed a spur road I had neither seen last time nor on my drive up this time. The acute angle of the junction is such that it is difficult to see while driving up the road. It looked like it was open and not marked private. In looking at Google Maps satellite view at home I can see a pond labelled Wild Boy Lake. There is evidence of vehicle wear and likely dispersed camping. In searching if there was camping allowed there I came across this NFS Alta Lakes Recreation Area Master Plan document.

Published in December 2018, some of the suggested changes have been implemented, such as the Phase I modifications to Lower Alta Lakes camping area, but I'm unsure about the progress of the other changes. I suspect many will not see implementation any time soon. It does imply that dispersed camping is available around Wild Boy Lake. It may be restricted in future, though not eliminated. 

It also confirmed my observation of last year that there are a few dispersed camping spots in Gold King Basin. Those are accessible via a side road that takes off Alta Lakes Road less that a thousand feet before the entrance to the campground. My impression from the Master Plan is that they may formalize the campsites in Gold King Basin at some point. If you are interested in visiting the area the document is informative.

Dunton Road

I turned south on CO-145, then took the switchbacks up Dunton Road, about 5 miles south of Lizard Head Pass. I turned south on Eagle Creek Road that runs along the top of the ridge. I checked the dispersed campsites along there, most were taken by hunting camps, though one was open. I thought I'd check the sites lower, closer to the river, before making a decision on where to camp. 

I stopped at the Calico Trailhead parking area to use the vault toilet. I also flew my M2P up a few hundred feet to take photos and a panorama. What with the clouds the lighting was not good for photos. The panorama is mildly interesting and does give a good sense of the geography. That's Mount Wilson and you can just see Lizard Head to the right.

I returned to Dunton Road and continued west. I paused to briefly chat with a couple hunters camped right by the road. It is elk season, but they were unsuccessful so far. 

Mount Wilson north of Dunton Road

The short stretch of road between the Navajo Lake trailhead and the bridge across the West Dolores River is where I'd seen potential campsites during previous trips along the road. One site was definitely taken by hunters. The other good location had a car parked there, but no evidence of tents or camping gear.

I continued down to the the NFS Burro Bridge Campground. It is a clean, pleasant developed campground well above the river (no river access). Vault toilets and water are available. There are many corrals, as well. I saw three trucks with large camping trailers pull out as I pulled in. No one else was in the campground. Fee is $22 (half off with annual or senior pass.)

I decided instead to drive back up to look at the site where there had been a car parked. Luckily enough it was now gone. I drove off the road and up onto the meadow. I saw double-tracks that led farther up and around a corner where I discovered a very nice little site amidst the aspens. It looked like it would work out best if I backed in and stopped where I'd get some late afternoon sun on my solar panels, so I turned around and did exactly that. 

A pleasant afternoon in my campsite off Dunton Road.

I was now at around 9000' and the temperatures were in the mid 70s. I sat my chair under the trees and enjoyed the scenery while reading my book. The view was not spectacular like at Alta Lakes, but very verdant and easy on the eyes. Later I walked around and explored a bit. I was close enough to hear the road, but far enough back not to be able to see it. Very few vehicles drove by.

Tuesday, September 20th

I fully expected to wake up to clouds or even rain, but was greeted to clear blue sky and sun. After breakfast I packed up and headed south, down Dunton Road, stopping once or twice for photos. I quickly realized that the slopes of this entire upper valley were carpeted with aspen and made a note to myself to return here for a future autumn foliage trip. Nearly all the aspen were thick with green leaves, but a few gave a hint they were at least thinking of changing sometime soon.

There is another dispersed camping area off Dunton Road next to the river, just before you get to the Cold Creek Road junction north of Dunton. I hadn't checked it yesterday as I fully expected it to be full of hunters, but no one was there when I drove by.

Dunton Road - you can just see the road to the camping area described above

Just down the road is the trailhead to Geyser Spring
Photos and a short video from my 2015 trip

By the time I reached the lower valley and the pavement, high clouds were moving in. When I climbed out of Dolores and looked to the west I could see rain moving in. I was doing well to get out of the mountains when I did.

The rest of the trip was thankfully uneventful as I returned home via the same route as I had driven out on. I was most of the way home when a thunderstorm gave me a free car wash. And of course it was hot and dry once I pulled in my driveway.

Thanks for reading my blog and as a public service I'd like to remind everyone not to believe every datum you see in every map. Sometimes the map makers introduce "errors" to catch copyright thieves, sometimes they get it wrong, and probably more often the road has been closed or the campground has moved. Always check a local source if your route or destination is critical.

San Juan Mountains, CO - Sept 2021: Part 2

Part 2 - continued from Part 1

Wednesday, September 22nd (continued)

Alta Lakes

Continuing north past the junction to Ophir and the scenic overlook, I found the right-hand turn-off to Alta Lakes. The signage makes it clear the road in not suitable for trailers and large vehicles. In fact the very first section is a narrow ascent along the face of a drop-off. Shortly thereafter one is cautioned that the first couple of miles pass through private land. After that I noticed most of the side roads were blocked off with No Camping signs to allow vegetation to recover.

When the road passed though the old minding town of Alta I stopped for a few photos and to let the vehicles that had been behind to go around. The road from there to the lakes was uneven and full of pot holes. About a quarter mile farther up is the turn-off for Gold King Basin (more on that later.)

I didn't know what to expect for camping and was a little apprehensive - Would there be space? Would it be too crowded? Would it be a pleasant spot or a dry lakebed? Google Maps said "campground (dispersed)" and for some reason I hadn't thought to check the USFS website.  (Note: the icon for the campground is in the wrong location. It's placed where Alta township is located instead of along the south side of the larger of the lakes.)

It turned out to be what I would call a "primitive campground" and not dispersed camping, at all. There are approximately 20 campsites; about half of those are walk-in tent sites. There are portable toilets at each end of the rocky road. There is no fee; first-come, first-serve. I got there about 3pm and was able to find a nice spot, though it had no view of the pretty lake. (Note: at the fork in the road the sign shows camping to the left and no camping to the right. Actually sites #1 and #2 are to the right.)

If you take the right fork you cross a little causeway to the day-use area on the north side of the larger lake. The road continues on for a short ways to the other lakes, but I did not go up that way this time.

Tonight's campsite at the top of a slight rise with a bit of a view of the mountains.

After setting up camp I made the acquaintance of Joe & Melinda tent-camping across the road. They had come here many times and pointed out that you could camp right at the lakeshore years ago. The old campground road and those sites were closed off to protect the lake from the pollution humans bring with themselves. A new "road" was put in and new sites created. These new sites are not the large, level, gravel sites one finds in the newer campgrounds, rather cleared areas squeezed in where they could, though there are a few suitable for small groups with multiple vehicles. Most give one a little space to one's neighbor. Joe is also a Canon photographer and we had a nice discussion of landscape and wildlife photography.

As soon as I set up camp I walked down to the lake to admire this view.

Joe had mentioned how great the sunset was the night before so I walked down to the lake with my camera. There were no clouds so I didn't know what kind of sunset there would be, but the golden colors on the mountain across the lake was magical.

Golden Hour when the sun is close to the horizon casting golden light across the land.

The last little flare of sunlight is crimson on Palmyra Peak.

Thursday, September 23rd

Alta Lakes (continued)

On one of my trips down to the lake the evening before I'd talked to a young couple that were camped in a spot with an amazing view of the lake. They said they were leaving in the morning if I wanted their spot. I saw them leave, but by the time I lowered my roof and drove over, someone else was already there. Rats! He said he'd been waiting days for that particular spot as it was the best in the campground. Good for him, I guess. He also said he had to leave the next morning, so maybe tomorrow.

Joe and Melinda were packing up and suggested I take their site as it had sun for my solar panels and was closer to the lake. This is what I did. They said the sun was only good until early afternoon, so I deployed my auxiliary solar panel to take full advantage.

It may look like this site has more trees than yesterday's, but this site is more open to the south.
You can't see from this angle, but the lake is beyond the trees and can be seen from my chair.

I was very lazy this day mostly sitting in my Strongback camp chair looking at that part of the lake I could see, listening to the songbirds, and reading my novel. It was great! Oh, I did walk down to the lake a time or two and tried to photograph dragonflies with no success. As the day progressed clouds began moving in, but I was able to fully charge my batteries, nonetheless.

Come evening I went down to the lakeshore to see what kind of sunset we'd have with clouds. As the sun went below the horizon it threw pink light upon the mountains, which was gorgeous - the photo hardly does it justice. There was also a bit of traditional sunset to the west through the silhouets of the trees.

The mountains were colorfully lit by reflections from the clouds.

An actual sunset tonight.

Friday, September 24th

Alta Lakes (continued)

Finally I was able to claim the excellent campsite with a full view of the lake and mountains, plus lots of sun for my solar panels. I moved, set up, and enjoyed the view. I took a walk around the lake and took some photos.

My new perfectly located campsite.

View of my campsite from across the lake.

A Mountain Chickadee

A gorgeous view of Bald Mountain and a tiny island.

I enjoyed my view much of the day, occasionally walking down the the lakeshore. I was finally able to get photos of one of the dragonflies, and a damselfly, that had been flying around. I also was able to photograph a butterfly and a Killdeer that had been hanging around at lakeside.

The Blue Dashers are almost always in motion and impossible to photograph. I kept watching this one until he perched then crept up and took lots of shots with my telephoto lens. I'm extremely happy to have such a clear image of this dynamic creature!

There were several Bluet damselflies all along the lakeshore.

There were a number of butterflies active this afternoon.

This Killdeer hung around the lakeshore below my campsite all day.

Another perspective of my campsite with the lake and mountains in the background.

I took the drone up for a panorama of the area and a few stills. I discovered later, when once I was able to expand the photo that there was another lake just north of the one where I camped. Something to explore next time.

An aerial view of Bald Mountain with Telluride just behind the ridge.
If you look closely at the larger version you might see the airport on the mesa on the left.

An aerial photo of Sunshine Mountain with the Alta townsite in the foreground.

A 180º aerial panorama of the lake, Palmyra Peak, and Silver Mountain.
Be sure to click on the photo to see a larger version.

I strongly recomment you click the Full Screen icon in the upper right corner!

My campsite neighbor, Derrick from Phoenix, was tent camping out of a classic Jeep Wagoneer and had been taking day-trips. He told me he'd just driven over Ophir Pass, looping back via Ouray. He said the aspen along US-550 were at peak color. I was surprised. I'd seen them beginning to turn, but was adamant they were at peak. He also told me the weather forecast was for rain on Sunday. Hmmm, maybe I should move my departure up by a day so I could drive down US-550 in good weather?

There is one downside to this campground - traffic comprised of people looking for a campsite. I'd noticed a number of vehicles Thursday afternoon/evening. Most of those seemed to find some sort of campsite. Friday afternoon, however, was a parade of trucks and jeeps and cars. And most had to turn around and drive back out, doubling the number that passed my camp. Can't really blame the people for wanting to camp there, but as it's an un-hosted, no-fee campground there is no one to put up a "campground full" sign at the entrance.

A last look at the lake. Click to get a larger view of this merger of two separate photos.

It was another gorgeous evening. No sunset, per se', but lovely light reflecting on the mountains. Refer to the photos, above, if you wish.

Saturday, September 25th

Alta Lakes (continued)

A beautiful morning greeted me upon rising. The lake was calm and there were a few folk fishing, though I never saw anyone actually catch a fish the entire time I was there. Once I was up I broke my fast and had my coffee sitting outside in the sun. I sent a weather forecast request via my inReach satellite communicator. When it came in, it confirmed Derrick's news - rain was expected on Sunday. In fact, according to the new forecast, there was a good chance moderate rain would move in as early as 5pm this very afternoon. OK, that settled it. As wonderful as this site was, I'd break camp and head for the aspen on the other side of the mountain. I wouldn't pass up a chance for peak color especially as I'd not expected it at all this trip.

Despite my resolve, I was slow packing up and getting gone. I also took a detour. Looking at the map I'd noticed a 4WD road running south to Gold King Basin. I'd asked Derrick the day before if it was worth checking out and he'd replied that it was. Coming up I'd noticed the sign pointing toward Gold King Basin. The road is about 300 yards from the campground.

Gold King Basin

The first short leg is through dense evergreens. There is a fancy, summer home where it dog-legs up the un-forested basin. The road from here is steep, rocky, and high-clearance is needed. There are a number of spots for dispersed camping and the views are spectacular. I suspect a few folks who were unable to find spots in the campground were able to camp along here. There is a small clear pond. I didn't drive to the end of the trail, but stopped for photos above the lake and turned around.

A three exposure panorama of Gold King Basin. Click for larger version.

Alta Lakes Road

I also stopped several times on my way down the road for photos of the amazing views of Sunshine Mountain, Lizard Head, and the colorful aspen. The light was not ideal for photos, so they cannot quite convey what my eyes saw that morning.

A grove of aspen rapidly changing into their autumn colors.
Just to the left of the peak of Sunshine Mountain you can see Lizard Head Peak.

A bit farther down the road the view opened up exposing more of the mountainside, but the perspective is such that Lizard Head Peak has dropped below the horizon.
If you look below the cliffs you can see the cut of the highway across the middle of the photo.

Now on to see the autumn colors down US-550, the "Million Dollar Highway" as it's called.

Continued in Part 3