Video: Dolores Canyon, Colorado

This video is in 4K UHD. I recommend you watch it full-screen. [Note: the Safari browser will only play video in HD, so if you have a 4K screen I recommend Firefox or another browser.]



The Dolores River originates high in the San Juan Mountains. It flows south until it reaches the town of Dolores, Colorado. There it pauses for a while in McPhee Reservoir. It then turns northerly until it ultimately joins the Colorado River above Arches National Park.

Dolores Canyon is considered that stretch of the Dolores River downstream of the reservoir. Initially the canyon is wide and tame. But as you go farther the walls close in. The section featured in this video is accessed via county roads east of the town of Dove Creek. When there is enough flow, this stretch is popular with rafters.

The first two "scenes" were photographed from the Dolores Canyon Overlook on the rim. The rest were from the canyon floor.

The gravel road from the top continues past a day-use, river access to a secluded BLM campground. Downstream from there a high-clearance vehicle is recommended. There are a number of sites for dispersed camping along the river road.

You can find more information in my blog:
http://bosquebill.blogspot.com/search/label/Dolores%20Canyon

Video was taken using a DJI Mavic 2 Pro on June 3 and 4, 2019.

SW Colorado & SE Utah - June 2019; Part 1

June 3rd through 9th

Part 1: Dolores River and Dolores Canyon

Introduction

I had an enjoyable trip to Utah in May and I was looking forward to getting out again. Weather reports were showing the temperatures in those areas of my last trip reaching the 90s - not comfortable for camping with no shade. At the same time friends were telling me higher elevations in New Mexico and Colorado were still closed due to snow. I would try to seek out some middle elevations to hopefully find moderate temperatures and did my planning accordingly.

I very much wanted to return to the gorgeous Dolores Canyon that I'd discovered in May of 2018, as I hoped to capture its beauty to share with you by utilizing my flying camera platform. The temperatures were quite pleasant last year in May. From there I had the idea to explore the middle elevations of the La Sal Mountain in Utah. I'd never been in the La Sals, so started my research.

There was a lake on the east side of the La Sals just within the Colorado border that looked interesting. This is named Buckeye Reservoir, but I'll mostly use the term "lake" in the rest of this report. Online photos showed a lovely area of Ponderosa pines and the elevation looked about right. From there I'd explore farther west in the La Sals. Then I thought I'd head down Bridger Jack Road, climbing up to the Gooseberry Road area of Elk Ridge and see what I could find; expanding upon my journey through there from last year.

Some of these plans worked out great, others not so much or not at all. Read on...

Don't forget you can click on any photo to open a larger version.

Monday, June 3

I took my usual route up toward the Four Corners, but I left earlier in the day than last time, so it was too early to stop for lunch at El Bruno's in Cuba, NM. Instead I ate at Taco Box in Farmington - it was OK, but that's about all. I turned north at Shiprock. I filled the tank in Cortez before heading to the back country.

Dolores Canyon

The turn-off is just before Dove Creek and is well marked by the BLM, as are the directional signs leading to the road that descends into the canyon. A water main is buried under this gravel road leading to a pump station at the river which supplies Dove Creek.

Aerial view of Dolores Canyon looking upstream from the picnic/rafting area near the canyon access road.

I stopped at the first picnic area and river raft access as there is a giant of a Ponderosa pine I wanted to video. (There is also a vault toilet, should you need one.) There was a young woman and her dog enjoying the Dolores River, which was flowing much higher than last year, though still not enough flow for BLM to issue rafting permits (according to a local couple I spoke with at the top of the road).

Aerial view of Dolores Canyon looking downstream from the picnic/rafting area.

I by-passed the no-fee, BLM campground and proceeded down the road along the river. The road is generally in decent shape, but you will want to have high-clearance if you drive beyond the BLM campground. Four wheel drive is not necessary, however. There was more standing water in the road than last year, but their bottoms were firm.

View downstream from my campsite.

View upstream from my campsite.

It was my belief that the second campsite I found last year was the best in the area, so I aimed for there. I found my site, but had to turn around in the narrow road to get down the short spur oriented correctly. A couple of people in an ATV had to stop while I completed my turn; that was the only vehicle I would see past the campground.

Aerial view down canyon from above my campsite.

My site was much as I'd remembered, though the vegetation along the river was taller and thicker (later in the year? more rain this year?) and the little beach was underwater. The canyon was as beautiful as I'd remembered. For a while it looked like a storm might come on stage, but there were only a few dark clouds that moved away leaving a lovely evening.

Spherical Panorama from above my campsite (click the Full-screen icon [ ] for best view:

Tuesday, June 4

Dolores Canyon, continued

View of the canyon walls from along the road on my morning walk.

Perhaps the only thing keeping this area from perfection is the lack of hiking trails - not that there is anywhere to hike other than the canyon bottom. For my morning "hike" I would walk down the canyon road. I had driven this way last year for a number of miles, with the oaks scratching my paint, until the canyon widened out and I turned around. I understand you can go for many more miles, though perhaps it would be better in a narrower vehicle. Reportedly the lower section is closed for mountain sheep lamb rearing for portions of the year.

This section of cliff had fallen from above (long ago) and was sitting by the road.
Notice more than two different patterns of ripples on the exposed sections.

Aerial view back up the canyon. Yes, I brought my Mavic2Pro along for my walk in my daypack.

Along the road.

It's a lovely walk with plenty of views of the canyon and river. There were no vehicles to break the illusion I was on a trail rather than a road.

Yucca blooming along the road.

I considered staying a second night, as I had last year, but the highway was calling and I wanted to explore other lands. I broke camp a little before noon. On the way out I stopped near the pump station and took a few more aerial photographs.

Aerial view looking downstream from the access road.

Aerial view looking upstream from the access road.

View of the access road where one enters/leaves Dolores Canyon.

Spherical Panorama from above the access road (click the Full-screen icon [ ] for best view:

Western Colorado

Leaving the canyon around lunchtime, I had hoped to find a cafe in Dove Creek. Driving though I couldn't find one; looking now, Yelp shows several, but I'm not sure they're still in business. Quite a number of big trucks were parked at a gas station/convenience store that probably served food, but it didn't reach out and pull me in. As I'd been coming into town I'd noticed a food trailer parked along the road advertising Southern BBQ. I'd give that a try. The proprietor and cook is from Louisiana.

Had the pulled pork sandwich and a small potato salad. Yummy! The sandwich was huge and very tender! The potato salad just the right amount of tart and creamy. They provide a couple picnic tables to the side of the trailer that were shaded and pleasant. Great stop between Cortez and Monticello for sure!

Dolores River, Take Two

There is no short route between Dove Creek and Buckeye Lake. It would have been a bit shorter to head to Monticello, then up US-191, then back east on UT-46; but I had never been though the far western areas of Colorado north of Dove Creek so this was a good opportunity to look around. This would also allow crossing the Dolores River again and compare the terrain.

I drove north on CO-141. It was straight as an arrow through agricultural areas until Egnar. Then there was some rolling hills before the highway dropped steeply, with many moderate switchbacks down to the river. This area is very arid and was hot.

Dolores River flowing from the south after passing through Dolores Canyon.

The highway then climbed back out of the wide, dry canyon in an easterly direction. It  crosses the evocatively named Disappointment Valley, through Gypsum Gap, across Big Gypsum Valley and Dry Creek Valley, then up to Naturita, CO, where I topped off my gas tank. Yeah, if you look at the map, this is a round about way to do it, but then my goal was to see new sights not speed directly from one place to another.

River Road

Leaving town I again eschewed the short route of turning onto CO-90 just past Naturita, and instead continued up 141. During my pre-trip perusal of Google Maps I'd seen a dirt road that cut between CO-141 and CO-90, which is on the route to Buckeye Lake - County Road Y11, a.k.a. River Road. That looked interesting and would prove to be so!

Highway 141 follows the San Miguel River which was flowing high and fast. Wow. The San Miguel, you may know, originates in the high mountains south of Telluride, CO. So perhaps it should not have been surprising to see so much water moving so quickly. It flows generally WNW to join the Dolores River which continues in that direction to the Colorado river northeast of Moab.

San Miguel River - if you see this old, abandoned truss bridge from the highway, and are coming from the south, you've missed the turn-off; if you're coming from the north, look for the dirt road soon on your right.

The turn off to River Road is tricky. It is north of the wide spot in the road labelled Uravan on maps, not that I actually saw anything there. The turn-off doesn't even show up in Google Maps map view, but can be seen easily in the satellite view. There is no highway directional sign; there is a "standard" green street sign on a pole at the corner reading "River Road." Once you cross the river you can only go downstream (the other direction is a private, mining company road). The gravel road is almost at river level, at least it was with the San Miguel so high, and although narrow, in very good condition. River Road parallels the highway for the first 4 miles, but after the first couple you can no longer see the highway which is high above the canyon walls.

Looking back upstream.

Looking downstream

This was an amazing and dramatic drive with the San Miguel rushing past only a few feet from the road and steep, sandstone cliffs rising from the water on the other side and above the road. I kept stopping for photos; I wish I'd have had the presence of mind to take some video as the photos don't convey the awe of the rushing current.

Hanging Flume

Small restored section of the Hanging Flume.

If you read my post from 5 years ago you may recall my photo of The Hanging Flume, and its explanatory sign, taken from the official highway overlook on CO-141. I looked up at the cliff face as I was driving the River Road and OMG, there it was. At least there were the support piers driven into the sandstone high above the river. Another "wow" moment. Shortly I came upon a place where someone had recreated a small section of the flume to show how it must have looked originally. There was an informational sign along the road, but its contents were totally obscured by time, the elements, and a bit of vandalism. I'll post the photo I took of the sign on the highway in the 2014 post.

Plaque from the official Hanging Flume Overlook on CO-141

Rushing waters of the San Miguel River

Dolores River, Take Three

Dramatic cliffs as the road turns west as the Dolores River and San Miguel meet.

Just past four miles the Dolores River joins the San Miguel and the road turns to follow the Dolores upstream. This junction marks the "end" of the San Miguel, though this day the amount of water in the Dolores looked to be less than a quarter of that from the "smaller" tributary. There are more tall, sandstone cliffs, but within only a mile or so the canyon widens out and disappears into Paradox Valley. There are many metering stations along this stretch monitoring and allocating water to irrigate the fields in the valley. Soon River Road 'T's into CO-90 where I turned north.

Continues in Part 2: Buckeye Lake & the La Sal Mountains.

Ruins & Landscapes, UT & CO; Part 3 - May 2018

Part 3 of 4 - Continued from Part 2.

May 17, 2018 (continued)

Chronologically, this post should begin with Lowry Pueblo, but I've skipped that for now so I can keep all the Canyons of the Ancients part of the trip grouped together in Part 4.

Dolores Canyon

Remember you can click on any photo for a larger version (recommended.)

Dolores Canyon Overlook

Next on my agenda was Dolores Canyon. I'd seen a photo somewhere and it looked very rugged and beautiful. I was only able to find a small amount of information on the area on the BLM website. No one I knew was familiar with the area. It was still relatively early in the afternoon, so I thought I'd check out the overlook I'd found on Google Maps, first.

I'd seen recreation and/or forest access signs along US-491 every time I'd driven between Cortez, CO and Monticello, UT and wondered about them. These are the typical brown, rectangular highway signs and easy to see if you're paying attention. The country the highway passes through is rolling farmland as far as you can see in both directions. I found the sign just south of the village of Dove Creek for "Dolores River Access" and the canyon overlook. I turned off the highway and followed the BLM directional signs.

After a few miles the road climbed slightly and the land changed from agricultural fields to pine forest. I turned up into the forest and continued.

[Note: this road would be impassible in wet weather!]

I noted a few side roads as I drove along as possible dispersed campsites. At the end of the road is a parking area with picnic tables and vault toilet, but no view. You have to walk a trail a hundred yards or so to come to the actual overlook.

Looking up the canyon toward Dolores.

Looking down the canyon. Note Abajo Peak and the mountains west of Monticello on the horizon.

Panorama taken with my phone.

I looked up the canyon and down. In one place I could see the Dolores River far below. When I looked to the northwest I saw a road descending down into the canyon. I bet myself that this was the road down to the river.

From this spot you can see the Dolores River below. I was happy to see a lovely flowing river with trees all around.

I closer view down canyon. You can see both the town of Dove Creek on the plains and the road diving down the side canyon toward the river. I would be driving this road very soon.

This is the "staircase" that leads from the trail on top down to the actual overlook point.
I quite liked how they simply laid slabs of mudstone on the ground to form the path. This was much easier on my knees and provided plenty of grip to negotiate the incline.

On my way out I tried a couple of those side roads and they did indeed lead to dispersed campsites. A couple were in meadows surrounded by pine trees; one was closer to the canyon edge, but with heavy undergrowth and no shade.

Dolores Canyon

I drove back toward the highway and picked up the directional signs leading to the river access. After a few turns on various farm roads, the route began dropping down into the canyon. FYI, on this road there is one dispersed campsite by the road, and perhaps another up a side road. They're only about a mile from the last turn-off and before the road gets really steep and narrow. The steep road and the canyon are definitely not recommended for trailers.

The road down into the canyon and the Dolores River.

At the bottom of the road is a pumping station for Dove Creek and then a BLM area for picnics and raft launching/retrieval called Mountain Sheep Point Rec Site. I didn't see any sheep. When the water is high enough this is a rafting river. Rafters can put in at Bradfield Bridge and get out here or continue for nearly 100 miles in favorable conditions according to a brochure I found online; it also showed locations for river accessible campsites all along the way. I was told later that last year there was good rafting from April to June, but this year the river never had enough flow.

About a quarter of a mile farther is BLM's no-fee Box Elder Campground. I drove in to check it out. I saw maybe a half-dozen sites and a vault toilet (although the BLM website says there are 11 sites and two toilets). There was lots of shade, but it felt a bit too closed in for me. Also, there was so much brush along the river there was no good access. There was one car there, but they weren't camping.

I left the campground and continued north, downstream. In about a hundred yards the road climbs up over an ancient landslide and is rocky and rough - high clearance is needed here; four wheel drive is not necessary, but did help with traction.

[Note: past the campground there are sections of road that would be impassible in wet weather. High clearance is also recommended. The farther you go, the narrower the road, with limited turn-around opportunities.]

The road down the canyon just past Box Elder Campground right before it climbs an old rock slide.

Looking upstream from the same place as the photo above.

About half a mile from the campground I found a dispersed camping area - you can easily see it in Google satellite view. There were a few sites in the main area, but none really grabbed me, however there was one at the north end that I quite liked. It was sheltered on three sides by oaks, in case the wind came up later, and had nice access to the river... and beautiful views of the dramatic, red canyon sides!

My campsite. The river is just down from the rock fire ring.

I found a level spot, popped up the camper, and got my chair out. The temperature was in the upper 70s with just a slight breeze. I sat and marveled at the gorgeous scenery.

Another view of my campsite. This one includes a bit of river.

Looking at the far side of the canyon by the river near my campsite.

Looking downstream from near my campsite. Note the tall Ponderosa pines.

My campsite as seen from the river bank and showing the canyon walls on this side.

Friday, May 17

Dolores Canyon (continued)

A beautiful morning in a great camp site. I sat out enjoying the view and the river. There were lots of interesting bird calls in the oaks, but the vegetation was simply too thick to see anything, much less photograph it.

Morning view of my campsite.

Telephoto of a rock formation down canyon that I thought looked like a face in profile.
Note also the commercial jet flying by in a roar.

One more photo from my campsite looking down river. I don't think the large pine actually leaned over this far. I think much of that lean is due to wide-angle lens distortion.

I was wrestling with myself on whether to stay here one more night or go explore down river both to see what was there and to see if there was even a better site to camp. Frequently the need to move proves overpowering. I decided I'd stay here as long as my chair was in the shade. I could tell that the site would lose all shade around noontime. I had my lunch and broke camp.

I continued down the road that parallels the river. The views continued to be wonderful. I passed one Tacoma pulled over on the side of the road - no sign of people, perhaps fishing or hiking. I found another dispersed campsite, then another, but kept going.

Lots of beautiful views as the road follows the river.

View of the Dolores River where the canyon was somewhat wider. I believe I turned around near here.

I was using the Avenza Maps app with the USGS Quad loaded to track my progress and guess what would be ahead. After the first couple of miles, dispersed campsites became much less frequent and the scrub oaks at the sides of the road began to encroach, scraping the sides of my rig. The soft green leaves hid the stiff limbs beneath. Keep that in mind if you drive a full-size truck. I was approaching the top of the topo map, and though I knew the road continued, the next Quad did not show the road. I decided I'd turn around next chance, as the wider canyon was becoming less dramatic, and go back to one of the campsites I'd spied earlier.

I returned to the site I liked the best. It was a little more than a mile farther north (downstream) from the previous night's encampment. It was a beautiful little spot with a few trees for shade all day. Nice view of the river and easy access, too. Someone had arranged rocks across the river, perhaps for fun, perhaps for raft access. This also provide a pleasant background bubbling-creek sound. There was also a large boulder that had fallen from the western cliff face maybe 30 years ago, judging from the ways the trees had grown around it.

My second campsite - a bit smaller with better shade and view of the river.

I set up the camper, placed my chair in the shade overlooking the river, and relaxed. After a while I decided my feet were hot, so I strapped on my water sandals and cooled them in the Dolores River for a while. It was a beautiful afternoon, probably around 80º.

View of the campsite from the other direction.

Looking downstream from near my second campsite. I was standing in the cool waters to take this shot.
You can also see a high-water cut on the left bank.

Looking upstream.

Dolores Canyon is a gorgeous area, lightly used, and the views of rock cliffs and the river are beyond compare. The photos do not begin to convey the majesty of this wonderful landscape. The only negative, and it's a small one, is that the air corridor above the canyon is busy with commercial aircraft and the sound of their jet engines is reflected by the canyon walls both coming and going.

Evening view of the canyon. The double-track at left leads to my campsite.

Saturday, May 18

Dolores Canyon (continued)

This is the boulder that sat at the head of my campsite.

What can I say?... another beautiful morning. It was tempting to stay out and not head home, but a friend I hadn't seen for years, as he lives back east, was passing through Albuquerque on Sunday and wanted to meet up, and it's very unlikely I'll get back to the Eastern Seaboard anytime soon.

A last fond look at my second Dolores Canyon campsite.

I figured I'd have time to check out the upper canyon access and visit the Anasazi Heritage Center near the town of Dolores, and still get home at a reasonable hour. So, I packed up and headed out. I stopped briefly to take photos at the picnic/raft-launching area, before climbing up out of the canyon.

Mountain Sheep Point Rec Area

Bradfield Recreation Area

Upon reaching US-491 I turned south toward Cortez. Just before the town of Pleasant View I spotted a recreation access sign for Lone Dome Recreation Site. It didn't mention Bradfield, but a quick look at my map confirmed this was the northern route (coming from the south, I believe the sign is before you come to Pleasant View.)

This time the road dropping into the canyon was wide, gravel, and not very steep. Dolores Canyon at this point is pretty tame - more of a valley than a canyon. I pulled into BLM's Bradfield Campground just to see what it was like. It was wide open grassland, no shade other than from each site's ramada. Access to the river was from a picnic area/raft launch site before you get to the campground. Not a very attractive choice for us dispersed camping types. I had time to explore a few miles upriver.

Bradfield Recreation Area Campground. Suitable for trailers.

Bradfield Bridge

Bradfield Bridge as seen from the campground access road.

After you cross the bridge, you need to climb a short ways up the ridge to the second junction before taking the road toward McPhee Reservoir. Once you drop down into the valley there were a couple, marginal dispersed sites in the first two miles that would be better than the campground as a last resort.

An abandoned cabin near where the sandstone is exposed in the canyon.

The Cabin Canyon Recreation site shown on Google Maps is apparently permanently closed (I've reported this to the maps team, who knows maybe it will be updated before you look). I drove 6 miles up the road and did not continue to the dam. At 6 miles there were a couple slightly better dispersed sites. I see now that had I driven just a little farther I would have come to the Lone Dome Recreation Site. If the satellite view is anything to judge by this tiny campground may be open, but it is impossible to tell if there's a gate closing the road or not.

This section of Dolores Canyon is very different from that farther downstream.

One last look at the sandstone canyon walls here above Bradfield Bridge.

From here I drove to the Anasazi Heritage Center near Dolores, CO, however Part 4 will actually begin with Lowry Pueblo in Canyon of the Ancients National Monument, which should have been at the start of this post, chronologically. I chose instead to keep all of Canyons of the Ancients in one post to make it more concise for those who later wish information only on that subject.

Continue to Part 4.