Spring Utah & New Mexico - May 2021: Part 1

First Post-pandemic Trip

New Mexico to Utah through Arizona to Utah and back: May 4 - May 9, 2021

You cannot believe how much I was looking forward to this trip - or maybe you can. I didn't even roll the camper out of the garage last year opting to stay home due to the pandemic. This wasn't all bad as I have a lovely yard near the Rio Grande and was able to enjoy my screened-in back porch. But still.

 Click any photo to enter the enhanced photo-viewing mode with larger images. 

Tuesday, May 4th

I didn't quite get it all together to make a shakedown cruise in April, so had the idea that my first night camping should be close enough to civilization that I could stop at a store the next morning for any critical supplies I'd forgotten and needed.

Angel Peak Senic Area

Edge of the cliffs with Angel Peak middle left.

So I'd spend the first night at Angel Peak Senic Area in northern New Mexico. This spot is a few miles off US-550 south of Bloomfield. It is situated on the edge of a plateau and overlooks the eponymous Angel Peak and the banded colors of the badlands below. I left in the afternoon as it was only about a three hour drive. I'd camped there once before in the free BLM campground though I'd gotten in too late to get a prime campsite. Today I arrived earlier in the day yet there was only one site left and on the backside away from the view.

My campsite

I'd passed three scenic picnic areas on my way in. I'd noticed last time people camped outside the official campground, so decided to explore. I tried one side road, but that was apparently just an oil/gas well access road - there are lots of active wells in the region. Next I tried the road to The Cliffs Picnic Area. This dirt road lead out onto a "peninsula" of the plateau. There was a very wide parking circle at the end with picnic tables under ramadas and vault toilets. There was a small car with an interesting sunshade rigged from it side under which sat a young woman and her dog. They looked like they were camping. I'd noticed a small spur along the road before reaching the parking area. I went back to check that out and it looked ideal. I was able to back in off the road and had a great view. Generally dispersed camping is allowed on any BLM lands and there was no prohibition posted for this spot. Hooray!

Angel Peak in the last of the day's sunlight

 There was cell & data service at Angel Peak, as it's in line of sight of Bloomfield.

Campsite from the air

It was a very pleasant evening with only a mild breeze. I was able to enjoy the change in the colors of the formations as the sun sank in the sky.

Wednesday, May 5th

Angel Peak Senic Area (continued)

For more photos and info about the Angel Peak campground you may enjoy my post from 2016.

I did get this spherical panorama from the air that is quite interesting. Click the full page view icon in the upper right corner for the best experience.

I photographed Castle Rock as I drove out

OK, so once again I forgot my coffee measure. At least this time I realized one measure is approximately equal to 2 heaping tablespoons. Not worth the traffic to replace it in Farmington especially since I have a spare at home. Therefore, I was able to take my usual Navajo routes to bypass Bloomfield and Farmington.

I stopped to take a photo of Ship Rock along the way.

Ship Rock

The bypass drops me at the western edge of Shiprock and I only had to go one extra block to stop at That's-A-Burger (as popularized in the Hillerman novels under an assumed name.) Only their drive-thru was open, which suited me. I got a green chile cheese burger - yum! One day I need to try their fry-bread burger.

I took my usual route west on US-60 past Tec Nos Pos, then turning north at Red Mesa on the Navajo route that leads to Montezuma Creek. North from there on the backroads to the town of White Mesa which was under quarantine lockdown, but the automated pumps were open at the gas station there.

My goal this day was Arch Canyon north of Cedar Mesa. I'd camped there exactly two years ago and was blown away by how spectacular it was. View the Arch Canyon post with photos. I wanted to return to get a few more scenes to fill out a prospective video of the canyon that I felt was a bit light when I'd worked on editing it last year.

Unfortunately, the one prime camping spot at the canyon was very much taken. The other spot is just a place to pull off the road and not near to the view. There were several trucks parked at the turn around, too. Must have been lots of hikers. Nonetheless, I launched to try and get those scenes I'd missed before. I hope I got what I needed as it's hard to judge while on site.

I did get this spherical panorama from above the canyon that is quite spectacular. Click the full page view icon in the upper right corner for the best experience.

I drove back toward the highway with the hopes that my favorite campsite at North Mule Canyon was still available, but to my disappointment it was taken. It was still fairly early in the afternoon and the weather was clear and very warm. I decided I would not camp in a less ideal spot, but would continue on my way.

I didn't even bother to check the map as I knew roughly where I wanted to go. I'd always looked south at the Henry Mountains when driving UT-95 to or from Hanksville and wondered about them, though they looked desolate and dry. A few folks I'd met on my travels mentioned pleasant camping there and interesting scenery, so this was the trip I'd check it out.

At one of the places the highway passes near White Canyon below Natural Bridges National Monument I stopped for photos and got a nice one with the Bears Ears in the background.

The Bears Ears on the horizon behind White Canyon

Cheesebox Butte a bit farther west

As I zoomed past the turn-off to Fry Canyon I wondered if there is anything interesting to explore down that way. Do you know? The afternoon was getting warmer and the highway seemed to be stretching longer. I was glad when I finally crossed the Colorado River near Hite as I knew the turn off to Bullfrog and the Henry Mountains was just beyond there (well, a ways beyond there.)

Another landscape along the highway.

I turned south and was happy to be driving into unexplored territory for me. As I passed a junction with a sign for the scenic byway I decided I'd better finally look at a map, so pulled off the highway and pulled out my Benchmark Atlas. The scenic byway looked like it could be long and rough, but there was a BLM campground in the foothills of Mt Hillers, Starr Springs. That sounded like a worthy goal and if I didn't like the campground I could explore the nearby roads for dispersed camping.

As I was driving toward the side road that would take me to Starr Springs I noticed how the foothills of Mt Holmes to my left were softly rounded sandstone while the peak was sharply angled.

Love how the foothills of angular Mt Holmes are wind-worn sandstone

Starr Springs Campground

I also noticed, when I looked west toward where I thought the campground might be located, there was a patch of emerald green amid the sere landscape. "I bet that's the spring," I said to myself. The gravel road leading up the mountain was well marked and relatively smooth. Sure enough when I got close to the campground it was green, green, green. The campground is enveloped in a stand of oak trees and was very inviting. The BLM charges $10 per night; half off for pass holders.

I made one circle of the twelve sites, then backed into one I liked next to a VW camper van with Alaska plates - nice folks originally from SLC.

Besides the welcome shade and well groomed sites, the campground has fresh spring water, too. There are a couple hiking trails. Recommended if you're in the area.

Thursday, May 6th

Starr Springs Campground (continued)

Starr Springs Group Campsite

I enjoyed a short walk around the campground in the morning and took a few photos. There must have been some ATV folk dispersed camped not far away as they kept coming in to the campground for water and the vault toilets. 

Fremont Barberry can be found all around southern Utah

Mt Hillers seen from the Starr Creek Campground

I had two options on how to head toward Burr Trail and destinations west; I could head back to the highway then south to Ticaboo and then Bullfrog to go 'round the horn; or I could take a dirt road that my map showed working its way westerly and joining up with Burr Trail Road a little south of Capitol Reef National Park. Well, my middle name is Adventure (no, not really), so I chose the dirt road.

Clay Point Road begins not too far south of the campground. My atlas shows it as an unpaved road, as opposed to a high-clearance 4WD road, so I thought I'd give it a go. There was a turn off to a dispersed campsite about a mile from the junction. It had a fantastic view, though it is totally exposed to wind and sun. I didn't include a photo as the view to the east put the sun directly into the camera lens and the view to the west is much like the photo below.

Junction of Clay Point Road (left) and Starr Springs CG Road

The road was well maintained and scenic, if you lean toward the desert esthetic. I stopped a number of times for photos, and saw one pickup truck, in the hour and 45 minute drive to Burr Trail Road. The name changes from Clay Point Rd to Saleratus Wash Rd at some point, but the main route is clear, if not marked.

Coal Bed Mesa seen from Clay Point Road as I top the rise

Dials Knob to the north

Saleratus Wash Road crossing Bullfrog Creek

Glimpse of the Water Pocket Fold facade from Saleratus Road

Capitol Reef National Park

I was back on a route I'd done once years before, but was glad to pass that way again as it is so gorgeous. I took many more photos including some views of the famous switchbacks that are probably the same as I featured in that earlier blog post.

Western facade of Water Pocket Fold near Headquarters Canyon (3 photo pano)

This is where the Burr Trail Switchbacks climb up and out

The red slope is where the switchback are dug in

Looking back down the grade

View from the top of the fold with the Henry Mountains in the background

A reminder to fellow travelers, there is no dispersed camping in Capitol Reef National Park. It is allowed in Grand Staircase/Escalante National Monument, however you are supposed to get a free permit first. Permit forms may be found at some of the kiosks located where side roads leave the highway. Or you can get them at the information centers. You don't have to specify the exact camping spot, the rangers will allow a general area. I was told a few years ago that if a ranger comes upon you camping without a permit, they will issue you... a permit.

Grand Staircase/Escalante National Monument

When Burr Trail Road leaves the national park it becomes (controversially) paved. I'd like to explore the Wolverine Loop Road, south of the main route, sometime with a hike of Wolverine Canyon and the adjacent petrified wood area. Another time and in cool weather.

The paved road, after crossing the flats, drops down and proceeds though Long Canyon. Curiously, it didn't feel as long this trip.

North end of Long Canyon

Fracturing that can lead to arches

There are very few pull-offs along the canyon

Looking back after climbing out

Back on the highway, through the town of Boulder then south on UT-12, I stopped to get aerial views of the dramatic Hogback.

Hogback on UT-12 south of Boulder

Calf Creek Canyon as seen from the location above.

Please join me in part 2 where I explore new territory in Grand Staircase/Escalante National Monument.

Continued in Part 2

Waterpocket Fold and Burr Trail - September 2016: Part 3

Southern Utah - September 2016
Spectacular Switchbacks, a Secret (Camp) Site, and Hidden Splendor

Part 3 of 4:
Waterpocket Fold, Halls Creek Overlook, and Burr Trail

Monday, September 19th (continued from Part 2)

Click on any photo to see larger versions - highly recommended!

Waterpocket Fold

After leaving Torrey on UT- 24 and passing the entrance to Capitol Reef, I turned south on Notom Road toward the town of Bullfrog on Lake Powell. The road parallels the evocatively named Waterpocket Fold with the west side of the valley being the Capitol Reef itself.

Iconic photo of travel in the west (Notom-Bullfrog Road.)

The first 8 or 10 miles are paved then it's about 14 miles of washboard and gravel to the turn off for Cedar Mesa Campground (not to be confused with the Cedar Mesa located between Natural Bridges and Valley of the Gods). This is the other no-fee primitive campground in the national park.  It is pleasant enough - most of the 5 sites were fairly private, shielded by juniper and piñon, and no one was present. There was no big view as at Cathedral Valley, and there didn't appear to be any nearby canyons to explore on foot.

It had been clouding up all day, so if I stopped here the solar panel would not work well and even with the clouds it was hot enough that the fridge would be working hard. Also, the ranger at the VC said there was a 50% chance of rain. One of the stories told Saturday night at the roundup was about the road between the Cedar Mesa Campground and the junction to Burr Trail Switchbacks. They said there is a nasty stretch of road through Bentonite clay that will turn too slick to drive when wet. Those factors got me back on the road headed south.

Interesting striated rock formation.

Washboard and Waterpocket Fold

Yep, more Bentonite Hills.

It was 11 (bumpy) miles to the junction for the Burr Trail Switchbacks, but I thought to continue farther. From this point the road is considered to be the southwestern end of Burr Trail, as well as the Notom-Bullfrog Road. Once out of the national park and on BLM land there were supposed to be "lots" of dispersed camping opportunities. I also heard from the ranger at the national park that there were many dispersed camping sites near the Halls Creek Overlook and that it was supposed to be "spectacular."

About 4 miles past the turnoff to the switchbacks, the road climbs east out of Strike Valley up to the mesa. It's about 7 miles more of gravel to Eggnog Junction where the road is once again paved (all the way to Bullfrog, though I didn't go that far). I saw a couple double-track roads branch off in this stretch, but it was not apparent if they actually went anywhere. I drove one mile on pavement before I spotted the turnoff west to Halls Creek Overlook. Then 3 miles of bad road to the final turnoff to the overlook and trailheads for Halls Creek and Brimhall Bridge trails.

Halls Creek Overlook

Trailhead at Halls Creek Overlook

I should not have driven the last 100 yards to the end of road and my advice to you is not to attempt it. Maneuvering around the a rock, holes, and ledges I caught one of my front mud flaps and it was darn near ripped clean off. Just before that section of road there were two dispersed camp sites, the only two I'd seen on the drive.

The view from the top was very interesting, especially if you are geologically inclined, but I thought perhaps a bit shy of "spectacular." Or maybe the view was simply diminished by the overcast sky or my expectations, I'm leaning toward being a bit more generous now that I'm home.

Halls Creek Overlook (upstream)

Halls Creek Overlook (downstream)

Directly across from the overlook you can just see Brimhall Bridge (center of photo just above midpoint.) This photo was actually taken the next morning, but I've placed it here for continuity.

The overlook and trailhead are actually in the national park and camping is not permitted there. Although there would likely be no one around to enforce that rule, the top was exposed to the wind and weather. I retreated back down that awful section and pulled into one of the nearby dispersed sites. Nonetheless, it was a very cool spot with a great view of the Henry Mountains and down to the basin of Lake Powell. I got out my tools and removed my dangling mud flap. I stashed it in the cab with the hope it can be repaired and re-mounted at home.

View of the Henry Mountains from the overlook. You can also see where I ended up camping.

My campsite and the view south.

The Henry Mountains in the sunset from camp.

The sunset from camp.

There was a beautiful sunset that evening and as darkness fell I congratulated myself for being far from the works of man... until I looked toward the lake and saw a white & green beacon flashing, and headlights coming down a far off highway. Later research revealed this was the beacon at the Cal Black Memorial Airport near Hite, UT, about 30 miles away as the raven flies.

Tuesday

iPhone panorama (180º plus) from Halls Creek Overlook

It did not rain overnight, but was still overcast in the morning. I walked back up to the top to see if the light was any better for photographs - not really. I then broke camp and headed back down. On the way out, about 500' from the pavement, there was a "road" that branched off. Looking at the satellite view now I can see that one could likely find a place to camp along that very short spur. I turned back north on Burr Trail, headed for the switchbacks.

On the drive I saw a small Class C camper encamped just off the road at a curve in a spot that looked not too bad. Again, looking at the satellite view, there are a couple BLM "roads" that head west a short ways off the main road. One could likely find a place to spend the night there. Note, however, the only road that heads east looks like it just goes to a stock tank.

Colorful rock formations near Post Corral

When I dropped back into the fold, as it were, I turned off on a spur toward what the park map names Post Corral. There's a vault toilet there, parking for a couple interesting hikes toward the west, and a place to turn around - oh, and corrals. Very interesting rock/cliff formations there. I returned to Burr Trail and headed north toward the famous switchbacks.

Burr Trail Switchbacks

At the junction, pointed toward the switchbacks.

Approaching the gap.

The approach to the switchback is very dramatic, as was Shafer Trail, yet totally different. With Shafer you drove into a long box canyon of tall, dark red sheer walls, incredulous that the road would be able to cling to the rock as it ascends. Burr Trail has been paralleling the long straight, magnificent, multi-colored reef structure, then turns directly into the seemingly impenetrable conglomeration of varied colors and shapes. As you enter, the hills turn to stone - gigantic white sandstone dunes, the road skirts an enormous piercing monolith and the climbs the face of deconstructed, red sandstone in a series of tight switchbacks. The view from the top is amazing, but I'm so glad I first experienced this place climbing up from the fold.

Entering the gap.

Looking back as the switchbacks begin.

Burr Trail Switchbacks.

View from the top. There's the Henry Mountains again.

I stopped at the top and walked to an overlook to revel in the view, then drove on. A short ways along the road to the west is the 4WD road that leads to the trailhead for Strike Valley Overlook and Muley Twist Canyon, which is reportedly a great hike.

Looking toward Strike Valley Overlook and Muley Twist Canyon.

Burr Trail

Once over the top, the road is much tamer then becomes paved as it leaves the national park. It passes through a high-desert prairie with a rim of jagged sandstone on the east and as you drive over a rise, the view of far off Boulder Mountain with a hint of red canyons at its feet appears. This area is part of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. There are a few dirt roads that lead off into the backcountry, including the Wolverine Loop, that I'd like to explore on a later trip. You are supposed to obtain a permit to stay overnight in the national monument. I'm not sure how you get one if you come in from the east as I did.

Burr Trail Road with Boulder Mountain in the distance.

Looking back up Long Canyon from above The Gap.

The road descends into Long Canyon which is very narrow and scenic. I can understand now why folks talk of the beauty of Burr Trail. The road climbs out of the canyon at The Gap. A few miles later I pulled into the Deer Creek Campground, which is located in the small canyon of Deer Creek, just to check it out for future reference. This campground, run by the national monument, is small, but very pretty. Back on the road it climbs again into more red rock and white sandstone toward the town of Boulder.

White rock just east of Boulder

Continued in Part 4: Hell's Backbone Road, Spencer Flat, Natural Bridges, and Comb Wash