Annular Eclipse, Red Canyon, Utah - October 2023

Moss Back Road and Radium King Road, Utah

October 12 - 14, 2023

My longtime friend Bill mentioned there was an annular eclipse coming to the Albuquerque area in October. It's not unusual for me to go camping about this time every year, so he was cautioning me that I might want to stay home and view the eclipse instead.

I had not heard of this solar event. I looked it up and discovered the center line would also cut though my favorite area of Utah. Looks like I could do a little fall camping after all!

Time to start planning an October trip. The big question in my mind was where would I go to best enjoy the eclipse? I thought Valley of the Gods would be an excellent backdrop, but knew it would be too full of people, since it is already (too) popular in the fall, much less for such an event. Then I thought about Muley Point. It was also popular, but there are campsites away from the central viewpoint that would likely be available, especially if I got there a day early. Then the chatter started up on social media by folks who were going to drive to Utah for the eclipse. Hmm, I figured I'd be better off if I selected a place that is off the radar of the usual tourists. Moss Back Road and Red Canyon, one of my favorite places, is relatively unknown. That should be a good spot. 

I used the PhotoPills app to research the location with regard to the sun position. From my previous visits I knew there were tall buttes to the east of the camping area. I needed to make sure the sun would be high enough by the time of the eclipse. It would, but I'd get there a day early to get the lay of the land, just in case.

Remember to click any photo for a larger version!

Thursday, October 12th

Drive Time

I figured if I took off by 10am I'd get up to the camping area in good time. Well, it was half past by the time I got on the road after a last minute stop at Albertson's for necessities. I took my usual route, stopping for a roadside lunch on the way. 

I filled the gas tank at Beclabito, as usual, cut through Arizona and up into Utah. I usually also stop in White Mesa to top off the tank so I'm as full as can be when I drive into the empty spaces. But it was later than I'd reckoned by the time I got there and the needle was barely under the "F", so I didn't stop. Would I reap the consequences later in the trip?

Moss Back Road and Red Canyon

I tore across the top of Cedar Mesa toward Fry Canyon, then wound my way up to the moss back formation. I passed a couple camps on my way in which was unusual, but not unprecedented. I thought I'd camp at the good spot I'd found last fall, but alas there was a group there with several jeeps, a travel trailer, and ATVs. I drove on, but didn't find a good site. I did see a pop-up camper perched on a little hill with two folks in their camp chairs enjoying the view. I waved and we tried to exchange a few words, but we were too far apart for a real conversation and I was on the hunt to find a site. I drove on, but quickly came to the end of the "good" road. I'd driven farther my first time up here and know better now.

I turned around, passed the camper and passed the group. I saw one spot that looked pretty good until I realized there was no view of the canyon, so continued on. I came upon a nice, small spot. It was great. It was right on the sandstone and fairly level. I could back up to near the rim so I could have an awesome view from my camp chair.

There was wind, but it wasn't too bad and the forecast predicted it would fall off toward evening (it didn't.) However I was fortunate that there as a large berm just upwind of my camper that deflected the worst of it. I also climbed the mound to get a good photo of my campsite.

My campsite overlooking the North Fork of Red Canyon.

The evening light was gorgeous. When I took my camera out I noticed I could only see one of the Tables of the Sun buttes from this site, unlike my previous camp sites—slightly disappointing. There wasn't much in the way of a sunset.

Tables of the Sun North

I had trouble falling asleep due to the wind, but at least the gusts were not so strong as to slam into the camper.

Friday, October 13th

Moss Back Road and Red Canyon (continued)

I woke to a calm morning with the temperature at 41º. It didn't start warming up until the sun rose over the buttes about 8:30.

Those buttes in the middle background separate the North and South Forks of Red Canyon.

As I mentioned, part of the reason to camp Thursday night was so I could see what the perspective would be at 10:30am. Yes, the sun would easily clear the buttes, but it didn't move out over the canyon as far as I'd hoped. I understood this was not important for photographing the eclipse itself, since the filter to protect the camera was too dark to capture anything other than the sun and none of the landscape would be visible. Still, I had in mind trying some sort of double exposure trickery, so walked around to see if I could find a better, nearby perspective. I couldn't. Oh, well.

Look along the edge of the moss back sandstone bench and at the far end
 you might see just a corner of my camper peeking around a large juniper.

I took photos of the scenery and the few birds that presented themselves. A Rock Wren hung around for me to get a passible shot. Mostly I simply enjoyed the views.

A cooperative Rock Wren

After lunch I took a "geology walk." Yeah, not really. I took a short hike along the base of the butte behind my campsite. It was interesting and I took lots of photos of the rocks and soils that seemed very colorful and curious. Unfortunately, the photos are pretty boring for the most part. I'll only share a few.

Dried plants still provided a bit of color.

I believe this is a piece of jasper chert someone placed on top of this sandstone boulder.
I left it in place for the next wanderer to discover.

The dark rock with thin layers I believe to be bentonitic claystone which is very soft for rock.

Please note: I believe this is my fourth time in the last couple of years to camp here on Moss Back Road. Consequently I didn't take as many photos as I did my previous times. If you are interested in this unique area and want to see more photos, please click "Moss Back Rd" here, or in the "Topics and Locations" column to the right. Thanks.

Sitting in my chair later that afternoon I got out my binoculars to look across the valley and along the bluffs. I spotted a truck and a car parked along Radium King Road across the way and wondered if they were exploring old mines on foot. There are many old mines in the area. Later that evening the truck was gone, but the car was still there. That made me curious and looking closer I discovered they had set up a small camping tent near the canyon edge. Hmmm, I bet they will have a great view of the eclipse from there—which got me to thinking.

Looking across at Wingate Mesa and Radium King Road (between mesa and canyon.)
If you look carefully just below the left of the mesa you may see a tiny circle. Remember this spot.

A few clouds came in later. The forecast had mentioned the possibility, but also indicated they'd be gone by the time of the eclipse. They made the sunset a little more interesting this evening.

Color in the sky just after sunset.

Saturday, October 14th

Moss Back Road and Red Canyon (continued)

By the time I woke up I'd decided to move over to the area along Radium King Road, which I'd eyeballed yesterday, to take my eclipse photos. I'd break camp and drive around to to the road, perhaps a bit farther than the tent campers. I'd look for a place I could pull off the road, if possible, and with a view back across the valley.

Early morning sunshine on Wingate Mesa

Radium King Road and Solar Eclipse

I found good site off road. It didn't have the view of Red Canyon as seen from Moss Back Road, but was on the edge of a small, steep, tributary canyon. It did have a good sight lines back to the three Tables of the Sun. I walked around and found the perfect spot to set up my tripod. I had read the whole event would take about two hours, so carried my camp chair and small table to the spot, as well. I had a thermos full of hot coffee to add to my enjoyment!

Here is my eclipse watching spot with cameras and coffee.
This spot was in that tiny circle in my Wingate Mesa photo from yesterday.

I set up my 7D with the long lens to photograph the sun while I'd use the smaller DSLR for ambient shots. By the time I got everything set the eclipse was starting. As the moon covered more and more of the sun I'd take a photo every 5 or 10 minutes. I probably should have decided on a regular interval, but guess I was too lazy.

After about half an hour I realized I was getting cold and had to walk back to my truck to get a sweater. It was amazing to me that although I could not detect a dimming of the light, it was nonetheless noticeably cooler!

Between shutter releases I walked round admiring the geology and rocks. Found some interesting erosion patterns to photograph and a few rocks to add to my collection. This was BLM land, not in the national monument, so amateur collection is allowed.

The remains of mudstone cap on top of fine-grained Shinarop sandstone.

Spherical concretions have eroded out of conglomeratic sandstone.
These are not Moqui marbles as they have no iron oxide shell.

Looking up the edge of the tributary canyon eroded into the Moenkopi formation.

I also had the idea to send my drone up to take a spherical panorama during the ring-of-fire phase. The pano is automated, so all I had to do was put it in the air and click "go." I could then return to my camera for the money shot. Which I did.

Composite photo of the annular eclipse "Ring of Fire" and its phases. Time moves to the right.

During the eclipse I used my other camera to photograph the terrain and sky. I knew it wouldn't hurt the sensor to include the sun as long as I didn't linger. This way I could put it all together in post processing.

I'm really excited at how well it turned out. I used one exposure for the foreground, one for the buttes and sky, then added the sun, scaled down, from the filtered image. The result is correctly positioned and the lens flair provides extra drama. The fact that the buttes are named Tables of the Sun adds the icing on top, so to speak!

Composite photo of annular eclipse, correctly scaled and positioned.

My drone successfully captured a panorama during maximum eclipse, but the sun was just a little too high to be within view (though I doubt it would have been able to capture the actual eclipse). Actually, I guess these spherical panoramas are really hemispherical as most of the sky is not captured. Nonetheless, it turned out to be a dandy pano and shows the North Fork of Red Canyon, Wingate Mesa, and the Tables of the Sun very well.

I recommend you either click the full-screen icon in the upper right or this link.

On the drive out I stopped along Radium King Road for photos. One to capture the colorful clays; another to show the moss back sandstone ledge upon which I was camping the nights before; and a view down into Fry Canyon.

Colorful bentonitic clays below the Wingate sandstone butte.

That horizontal band between the butte and canyon is the moss back ledge where I camped.

As Radium King Road drops down the north side of the butte you can see The Needle rising from Fry Canyon.

On the Highway

I turned east on UT-95 headed for the Abajo Mountains. After only a few miles there was a beautiful view of the Bears Ears on the far side of White Canyon of Natural Bridges.

Looking across White Canyon (where Natural Bridges is found) to the Bears Ears.

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Thanks for reading along. I will continue the remainder of this trip in my next post.

Late Spring Utah - May 2023: Part 4

Part 4 of 4

Starr Springs, Cockscomb Black Table Road, Colorado River, Moss Back Road, & the Way Home

Click on a photo to see a larger version.

May 19th (continued from Part 3; go to Part 1)

Once I came out of Poison Springs Canyon I stopped just before re-entering the highway to weigh my options. The sky, for the most part, had stayed clear, and it was very warm, approaching hot. The Henry Mountains were a possibility even with clouds building overhead. At this point I lamented not having better maps of this area. Looking at my Benchmark Atlas I saw a road cutting off UT-276 several miles south of the junction with 95 and I recalled seeing a Backcountry Byway sign there. I thought I'd try that then work my way south looking for dispersed camping. I didn't want to try to go over the pass as that was likely too high, too cool, and possibly under a rain cloud.

East Trachyte Ranch Road

I found the road and turned west. After a few miles I saw a couple of vehicles that looked like campers or travelers come out which I assumed meant this was a through road. However, before long I came to a junction not on either my map or the GPS. I slowed to look, but passed it by. After a couple of miles the road I'd been following looked like it terminated at a ranch. I turned around and went back to the unidentified road which was in good condition and well traveled. After a few miles it dipped into a valley. It  passed a deluxe campsite that was already occupied with camping and horse trailers. Immediately afterwards the road dropped down to ford a creek. It was running fast, looked deep, and was an opaque grey blue. I hesitated. I could not see evidence that anyone else had crossed recently—both banks were dry. I decided it would be foolish to try it, so backed out, turned around, and headed back to the highway. Looking at satellite maps from home I believe this was Trachyte Creek.

Starr Springs Campground

Seemed like the thing to do at this point would be to continue south on 276 and head up to Starr Springs where I'd camped once before in a nice little BLM campground. Just before entering the campground, however, I drove a bit farther to see if there was a dispersed site nearby. There's one nearby site that seems to be always occupied by two travel trailers. I tried a couple spurs beyond that, but they are no more than ATV trails with no place to camp that I could see. Consequently, I returned to the campground.

Many sites in this small, neat campground were already taken. I found a level site. It fit me well, but would be less ideal for a tent camper as the tent/table area is on a lower area reached by a short set of stairs. This was the only location on this trip where I found mosquitoes, or rather they found me. Not surprising due to the verdant nature of the campground.

Although I had neighbors, they were not around much. I finally figured out after talking to one the next morning that several sites were occupied by friends from Colorado. They were using the campground as a base for daily excursions and in the evening would gather at a site farther away from me.

Saturday May 20

Starr Springs (continued)

I walked around the campground in the morning looking for the birds I could hear and taking a few photos. I got a few glimpses of warblers and vireos, but they were too far into the bush for photos. As I drove out I stopped a couple of times to photograph the wildflowers with the mountains in the background.

Cockscomb Black Table Road

Rather than head straight back to the highway, I decided to be just a little adventurous and explore north along the gravel road below the campground. This is an interesting road running northeast along the sloped plain below Mt. Hillers. 

Mt. Hillers of the Henry Mountains.

The road leading me to the Cockcomb

The view toward the east is extraordinary, although best appreciated when the atmosphere is clear and the sun in the west. This morning it was very hazy and cloudy muting the color and contrast of the red rock country. I took lots of photos, even dug out my polarizing filter, but there is simply no way to compensate for the conditions. I do want to return at the right time of day and weather to try and capture this beauty. I’m not going to post any of the bad photos of this time.

I came to a junction with a well traveled road heading northwest. This was signed as Chaffins Way. A short while later a similar junction with Rainbow Road. Cockscomb Black Table Road became much narrower and a bit rougher from this point on. If you look at a satellite image you can see that those two named roads meet about a mile up and between them are side roads and loops that might have been someones dream of a residential subdivision back when Lake Powell was a thriving recreation destination (with water levels as "intended" and a working ferry.) There appears to be one or two houses there. After returning home I phoned the Henry Mountains BLM office and they said the subdivision is on state land and that there are cabins up there and the land is considered private.

Looking back at the way I came with Mt. Hillers and the Cockscomb in view.

The road continues NE across a terrace and a hogback where a cattle guard is to be found. There were lots of wildflowers and amazing views. The road gets rougher, but not technical, as it descends crossing a few canyons before coming out at UT-276. An enjoyable alternate route and I even identified a probable dispersed campsite about 2 miles from the highway.

A close-up view of a Utah Penstemon.

The road drops off the hogback and Canyon Lands appear.
The camera is not pointed into the sun so was able to salvage this photo somewhat.

I spent a long time trying to ID this wildflower without success. The serrated leaves simply do not come close to matching any flower I could find. No one on iNaturalist has suggested a species, either.

In a "palm of hand meets forehead" moment: I was home, checking maps while writing this narrative, before I realized the large, dark, flat-topped peak I'd seen from several vantage points while driving the road was the Black Table. I almost didn't include the one photo I took. Black Table appears to be basalt rather than your typical Utah sandstone butte, not surprising considering the geology of the Henry Mountains.

Colorado River

I took UT-276 back north to UT-95 and turned east. Anyone who is familiar with this section of highway probably recalls it parallels a wash that runs all the way to the lake. I've never seen water in it, but this morning it was flowing. I guess all that rain from the east side of the Henry Mountains had to go somewhere. That, along with all the wildflowers, made this an even prettier drive than usual.

I had time so thought I'd stop and take photos of the bridge across the Colorado near Hite. Kind of a tourist thing to do, but don't think I'd stopped once in the last decade, at least. I bet many of you haven't either.

Looking downstream toward Lake Powell

Hite Crossing Bridge

Looking upstream from the bridge.

I also decided to check out Hite, which I don't think I've ever done. When I'd been poking around the internet looking for destinations and places to camp, I kept stumbling across posts praising the camping at the primitive campground there. I had thought Hite was all closed up with the lake so low, but there was only one way to find out. 

Highway to Hite

Well, there were concrete barricades with pretty permanent looking "Temporarily Closed" signs just about everywhere. My determination is that it is all closed up. This is part of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and with funding as it is, I'm guessing this area will stay closed for a while.

Fry Canyon / Moss Back Road

I hadn't placed Moss Back Road as a priority for this trip as I'd camped there twice last year. But it's a gorgeous location and fit in nicely now as a finale to my week in Utah. I pulled off onto Radium King Road, sign posted as Fry Canyon, and proceeded on the gravel road. It turns to dirt before climbing the butte, but was in very good condition. I turned onto Moss Back Road which had minor wash damage. 

I returned to the site where I camped last spring. I'd camped farther in last fall, but this site I think has the most varied and beautiful views of all. I was all set up by 1pm and got in some good relaxing with intervals of walking around taking photos of wildflowers, lizards, rocks, and the views. It was partly cloudy with a mild breeze.

Just look at this view across Red Canyon!

Around 4pm I could hear thunder rumbling and clouds building behind the butte to the north. I could see rain falling across Red Canyon. It got darker and within an hour began to rain lightly, then a bit heavier. Those who also own a camper with an aluminum sheet roof know how it can amplify the sound of the rain. It sounded like a torrent outside, but it was barely wetting the rocks. 

Still I had some concerns if it lasted too long and I didn't know how heavy the rain was on the other side of the butte where the road has more clay to get slippery. Nonetheless, I was well positioned here on solid rock and away from any washes.

The rain didn't last too long and I couldn't see any running water or even puddles out my windows. It remained dark and overcast. It cooled off enough that defrosting and heating up some of my homemade soup sounded attractive for the first time on this trip.

Just before 8pm I noticed there was a gap in the clouds near the western horizon and sunlight was leaking in. I grabbed my camera and scooted out the door. I started taking pictures around my camp, then realized I was going to get actual golden sunlight at an angle to illuminate the Tables of the Sun. I began walking up the road enjoying the beautiful evening taking photos every which way.

When the sun sank below the horizon I began walking back to camp and was treated to the best sunsets of the trip. What a delight.

Sunday May 21

Moss Back Road (continued)

I love this campsite. Just about anywhere else being this close to the road would be a major disadvantage, but I've camped here twice without anyone ever driving by. When I camped two days at the site farther in only two vehicles slowly drove past in all that time.

I got outside just after dawn hoping to capture that wonderful light. I sent the drone up for a spherical panorama. The result is striking as the light before sunrise has brought out the diversity of this landscape of contrasting rock and soils. The spherical panorama I took last year is much prettier and you may prefer to view it.

View on the Kuula site or in the frame below, In either case, click the Full Screen icon in the upper right corner to get the full experience.

I knew I had a full day of driving ahead to get back home, but did take the time to walk the other direction along the road & cliff edge to get more photos. The Cliff Rose bushes were were showing a riot of blossoms. I've never seen such a display. I didn't realize there were so many all around. When not blooming they are just another desert scrub brush.

A Cliff Rose in full bloom.

Cliff Roses on the rock bench with Wingate Mesa in the background.

A close-up photo of the Cliff Rose blossoms.

On the Road Again

It was a lovely morning across southeastern Utah. Lots of wildflowers and views across the canyons to the mountains. I took my usual route including the Cow Canyon Road cut-off to Montezuma Creek. The Globemallows were thick on the shoulder of the road, and as there was no other traffic, I stopped for photos.

I drove south on Red Mesa Road and stopped at Tony's Road for photos of yucca blooming.

Filled my tank at Beclabito then stopped once more for a photo of yet more Globemallow, then again for a giant storm cloud.

I drove though a brief rain shower on US-550 thus completing my record of being rained on every single day of the trip (even if only briefly.) Still, a wonderful trip with mild temperatures and no bad winds—quite the accomplishment for spring. It would have been nice to have a bit more sun for photography, but you probably think I posted more photos than warranted anyhow.

Thanks for following along on my little adventure.

Return to Part 1